Wax finish kitchen table?
Navy Momma
8 years ago
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Comments (16)
Sombreuil
8 years agoNavy Momma
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Penofin - wax like finish that shows scratches from patio furn
Comments (4)Two things I have found about Penofin. One is that you really need to wipe it well. I go over it multiple times and then as it "bleeds" small amounts go over it again. It is important to reapply the Penofin before the finish wears out and becomes brown. The second coat requires even more wiping because it has not penetrated as much. I also will say in general Penofin does scratch easily - even the first coat. I don't yet know many times this can be repeated before you need to strip. Previously I just stripped, cleaned and brightened every year but that is a lot of work so hoping that following the original instructions of recoating every 3-6 months will get me a longer time between the need to strip it. I applied the first coat at the end of April and now late July the color was just starting to turn where it was in the sun and rain a lot. It has been a very hot and rainy summer. The second coat got it back to its original look albeit a bit darker. Here a side by side picture of the lower deck with the original 3 month old finish and the upper deck with the 3 month old finish after the second coat was applied in late July....See MoreOil & Wax Finish: need help on the wax part!
Comments (16)Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc...See Morebest sealant for durable limed wax finish kitchen cabinets
Comments (6)>You just learn a valuable lesson about planning the job start to finish before starting. Yep. The first rule of finishing is to run a trial, start-to-finish, on a piece of "scrap" before you touch the final project. Avoid the "ready, fire, aim" approach, AKA, "What do I do now?" Polyurethane has its own set of adhesion issues, exacerbated by a foundation of wax. It will peel off like a bad sunburn. Oil-based poly is going to significantly yellow or amber your look, even if it did stick. Waterborne poly, which is mostly acrylic with poly thrown in for marketing purposes, will give a cooler, sometimes bluish, tint that would not affect the white liming as much. But it won't stick either. In addition, a wax finish is about as close to no finish at as as you can get. Virtually no resistance to water, soiling, cleanability, etc. -- most of the things you apply finish for in the first place (the remaining one being beautification, the one thing you did achieve.). You might have achieved the same look by using a white-wash / pickled oak / etc. (names dependent upon mfr.) stain followed by a KCMA certified, low-gloss w/b acrylic. I add this in case anyone in the future reads this....See MoreWhite oak cabinets - using wax as finish
Comments (5)All three of these post made me laugh. I am so glad I asked. I've read about cerused / lime wax on several blogs while researching cabinet styles, material and color. I decided on white oak. They are custom and I got my first peak at the several finished pieces a few days ago. They are georgous! The craftsmanship is top notch. However, he hasn't seemed to keen on any type of wax finish. The first thing he did was build several cabinet door styles and came up with exactly what I wanted. I also worked with with white oak samples until I figured out the stain and finish before he started. I just had a nagging need to learn more about the cerused finish. And now I know. I'll give it a go on a furniture piece or two but follow everyone's expert advise. While I am getting my dream kitchen, I've got to be realistic. We have a small horse ranch and my hubby sometimes skips the mud room and goes straight to the kitchen. I think this advice saved me from a big mistake. Thank you!!!!...See MoreNavy Momma
8 years agoNavy Momma
8 years agobobismyuncle
8 years agoNavy Momma
8 years agoklem1
8 years agoNavy Momma
8 years agoNavy Momma
8 years agolazy_gardens
8 years agorwiegand
8 years agoSombreuil
8 years agoDave Nelson
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6 years agoDave Nelson
6 years ago
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