Regarding Thomasville... They have two groups of leather construction - Leather Choices (made in China) and the Custom Leather Group (made in USA). Thomasville's 8-way hand-tied springs (a dying art only as good as the person tying) have been replace on many sofas with individual pocketed coils. Most Thomasville stores should have a sample. Flexsteel Manufacturing makes quality reclining furniture. Their blue-steel spring system has a lifetime warranty. Flexsteel also has two versions: American made and their "Latitudes" (China made) versions. The American made versions have a lifetime warranty on their frame, spring system & cushions. I speak from experience... My mother has her Flexsteel leather recliner since 1989 and it's still in fine working order and no problems. Check out the "Chicago" series. Just bought the "Chicago" recliner last year for my father's 80th birthday. The "Oslo" is great if you want to configure two recliners next to each other. Can be configured without the "home theater" look. I know many other people that own the Flexsteel reclining sets and stationary furniture. Some have had them for over 15 years with no problems. Only regret is they didn't purchase leather. Hope this info helps :-) Here is a link that might be useful: Flexsteel American-Made Reclining Sectionals

You have a ton of questions and I will do my best to address them, I also have AADD so if I start to ramble and jump back and forth just overlook that :). We need to simplify this more because there are certain issues you can't change..... being on a slab and the weight issues. Any slab has to be reasonably flat and dry, but in your case it needs to be almost dead flat and dry. We are supposed to always check slabs for vapor emissions that can go unoticed when there is carpet over top that allows the slab to breath and release moisture without any problems. You have an 18yr. old glued down wood floor that has exhibited no problems, in my view that is as good an indicator one is going to get..... so we'll just say you are dry. I don't know how many sq.ft. is involved but it takes some space for an installer to check the slab for flatness and then take measures to correct it. Sometimes a low spot can be a few feet in diameter and with the feathering needed I may need 6', 8' or more to deal with it. If I don't have space I could be featuring up to a high spot underneath furniture. It is best to try and figure a way to go one room a time, clean it out, then go on to the next room. If you have your heart set on an engineered BC, then get it :), life is too short to fret over that as long as you know about this issue and are okay with it. On glued down floors the thickness does not really matter as much as opposed to floating. What does matter is the top wear layer thickness and using the right adhesive. A 3mm or 4mm thick wear layer is actually better in the long run as a 5mm thick . Going too thick with the wear layer can cause a phenomenon called "dry cupping" .... the NWFA and NOFMA are aware of this and it is being addressed. If you go with a glued down engineered wood floor and want to put on a sealer as "insurance" , then do it. In your case I would strongly consider using Stauf 960 which is a quality sealer and adhesive combined in one application. You pay alot more for the adhesive but you only have one labor issue. Imo you could also go with a floating floor. But to pull this off you must use a quality product and (here I go again)..... the concrete must be flat. There is a laminate out there that I have personally installed that is almost bullet proof. That would be Wilsonart , which is a high pressure laminate referred to as an HPL. Putting that down along with using their blue fusion glue in the joinery can take any weight you want to put on top of it. When I do that I recommend to the client upgrading the underlayment to a product Sound Solutions. You cannot walk on this type of install and tell that it floats. You could also go with a floating engineered wood... this is where thickness comes into play. I prefer to use nothing less than a 1/2" in thickness and a where the joints get glued up, or, choose a good reliable click-lock system like the valinge or Uniclic joinery systems. They both hold together well. The wood should also be waht is called balanced.... the top layer equals the bottom. You are very typical of alot of my clients. Quit stressing so much :).

Don't know what style you're looking for but we've had this brand for years. Ours has a black base with cherry top. We find it to be durable, heavy, affordable and quality furniture. Their file drawers are excellent! Here is a link that might be useful: office furniture

I’ve had custom furniture made before, and I agree that it’s not necessarily more expensive, and it’s a great option. I think it’s a much riskier undertaking with a sofa however. Subtle variations can make a huge difference in both looks and comfort. I think it’s fine if you see a sofa you can try out and examine and then just make it a bit longer or whatever. But cobbling together a custom sofa from, say pictures, is risky in my opinion.