Murray cypress - so what's the big deal??
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years ago
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Smivies (Ontario - 5b)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
What's the big deal with water?
Comments (8)I make sure that the potting mix is well wetted before filling for two reasons. First is that if the soil goes in fully moistened it doesn't change volume or compact. Second is that when it is fully moistened, it never again dries out fully during WS. When it's like that, additional rain can wick into the soil and the pots also drain properly. If it's not wet enough, rain can often just cut a channel through the dry potting soil and moisten it properly. Now if your area has frequent perfect gentle rains, none of this may be a problem for you. Lynda...See MoreWhat's the big deal about Pro-Mix??
Comments (16)Minnamouse - I posted this at the end of a different thread you posted but perhaps you didn't see it. Here's a cut & paste section, followed by a few new thoughts: "Minnamouse, if you had all that trouble with damping off you might really want to consider a good commercial blend. The reason I say that is because they are mixed to provide an appropriate level of moisture retention and trying to get that with your own mix could be a real challenge. I like Promix and Sunshine mix best and personally dislike Miracle Gro. Part of that is probably due to regional growing condition bias. Miracle Gro dries out way too fast for me here while the other two stay at just the most perfect moisture level for much longer times. I do think that Miracle Gro may have an advantage for people growing in wetter conditions. The same features that hurt germination rates for me and made planting out challenging would probably have been advantages in growing regions that got a lot of rain this year. If you are still working at getting good results with WSing, I'd make ProMix a first choice in areas where you usually don't have muddy gardens and Miracle Gro potting mix a first choice in areas where mud in the garden is common. (Sunshine mix is less readily available and more pricey.) I'd hold off on using home mixed mixes for anything but seeds you have in huge abundance where won't be upset if they don't grow. That's actually what we do - I use our home grown container mix for things like zinnias where I have many giant bags of seed available. When you have a load of surplus seed you can live with a potting mix that wicks water in a less than perfect way or that might crumble or break apart when you try to transplant hunks of seedlings." To specifically address your question today, in my opinion the biggest deal about using a purchased mix is that the moisture wicking and retention balance is better than anything you can put together on your own - and that can be VERY important in seed starting. My family likes to be very cost conscious. We grow most of our own food. We have to container grow our veg in five gallon buckets here because the local soil is pretty much just rocks, coal and a bit of clay. (Nice if you want to run a quarry, lousy for gardening!) Our growing & food producing containers are all filled with a home blend of compost with a little perlite. That's great for mature plants and not having picture perfect wetting and moisture retention is not a problem at that stage. Good enough is perfectly fine. But for seed starting and seedlings we only use Sunshine mix or Promix. Yes, it's more costly - especially when I WSed over 3600 containers of flowers and hubby indoor sowed over 200 tomatoes plants and about 50 each of peppers, eggplants, gourds, melons, beans and the rest of the stuff. Maybe I should also mention that hubby Pat's family has been commercial growers in England for at least 6 generations. They made all of their container mix (like you describe above) but bought in their seed sowing mix by the pallet load. In his professional growing experience, and our personal home growing experience it is worth the cost to buy a good seed starting mix - and save home mixes for once the plants are past the seedling stage. That's how we do it because we consider the cost of seed and we want strong seedlings and high germination rates. That's also why I won't use miracle gro here - although if I was in waterlogged Pennsylvania this year I'd probably appreciate it's moisture wicking profile better. I hope this helps. I don't know if you've seen any of my other posts but if you have you probably know that I've got very similar views to you about getting really good value for your money when you are gardening. To me there is such incredible value in planting a seed and getting a healthy strong seedling - ready to grow big and strong, provide flower or food, and then provide seed for future years. I just can't afford the cost of seed, time lost, and food lost by seed starting in a homemade mix - and that's even with having my own English gardener (with decades of growing experience) right here and his elderly mother(with even more experience) just a phone call away. I hope I don't sound like I'm just a member of some kind of Pro Mix fan club. I'm not. I like anything that gets me top notch results. That just happens to be that pricey Pro Mix and Sunshine mix. Lynda Here is a link that might be useful: This is why I seed start in Promix or Sunshine mix...See MoreMurray Cypress (Cupressocyparis Leylandii 'Murray' X) in zone 5B.
Comments (3).I feel like I should make the conifer forum page my home page ==>> way ahead of you .. lol ... zone info is so shotgun ... its all about your micro climate ... and frankly.. no one but you can figure out what your garden is.. zone-wise .. variables include.. winter sun ... mulch ... prevailing winter winds [this one is real important.. the bigger the plant] ... how bad winter is ... snow cover,if any [keeps soil temps constant] .... altitude ... depressions [i swear hidden lakes.. in a glacial kettle.. 10 miles from me.. is a z6b ... rather than my 5b .... because.. my theory.. the winter winds howl over the hole they are in .. and i lost a lot of money buying things that thrive 10 miles away ... that failed in my former flat.. horse pasture ] ..... etc ... peeps swore i should be able to do Pinus wallichiana [sp?] in my garden ... i lost about 4 of them.. when i was at your spot on the learning curve ... what will grow in your little slice of heaven.. is up to you to find out.. and you do it.. by killing plants.. lol ... i suggest you do your research in advance... [surely like i do religiously .. NOT!!!! .. lol].... and i suggest.. that the ones you want to try pushing zone.. you start smaller.. so that you can protect them the first few years ... by wrapping some burlap around them .. or something or another .... which you could still do on this one ... but it wont be easy at that size .... on top of a zone challenge.. you have an extremely large transplant ... which may be stressed on that alone [though that growth rate would not indicate such] .... insure.. that the soil in the root mass does NOT dry out in winter.. IF you can water w/o freezing the roots into an ice cube.. that is a soil issue and ground freeze issue.. if any [not that qualification repeating.. i dont know YOUR SOIL ] .... one way to water .. is to use ice cubes.. which melt when the soil warms.. and gently add moisture.... as compared to you dumping a 5 gallon buckets on the wrong day .... a smaller challenge plant .... might get better adjusted ... established.. and be able to make it thru a questionable winter .... because all said and done.. you are at the whim of ma nature ... and she can be a real witch .... like when a z4 winter rolls thru for you one year .... sooooo .... its all part of the excitement of learning.. i hope for the best.. for you ;... keep up the questions.. we get bored talking to ourselves all the time.. new blood makes it much more interesting .... ken ps: most nurseries.. good ones.. should let you TAG a plant... giving you the opportunity to insure you get it ... and then go do your research ... and have the tag removed.... if you opt away from the decision ... pps: you dodged a bullet planting in july ... i hope you know that now.. especially on a 6 foot plant .... never forget.. just because you buy it.. does NOT mean its the proper planting time.... though apparently .. this one is a beast .. lol ... other conifers may not be so forgiving ..... God will this ever end ... and i dont understand how a july transplant.. grew 2 feet in the interim ... was there any fertilizing.. ???? i hope it gets the clue.. and starts slowing down.. hardening off.. for winter ......See MoreAre these Murray cypress?
Comments (22)Heh, you saved the hard question for last! So, GG's have been touted as "deer-proof". And one of the parental species of this plant-Thuja plicata-has always been considered less a deer feast than its eastern cousin-Thuja occidentalis. All that said, deer are not reading our lists. And deer don't form committees to see what should be eaten in various parts of the country. I'd plant them in good faith but have an action plan at the ready. Some surprisingly easy techniques have worked for us in protecting "pods" of swamp conifers that we are establishing in some of our stormwater control sites. Basically, all we've done is placed polygons of steel T-posts around each grouping and then wound several layers of baler twine around the posts. So far, no damage, and this within a system where we've planted some 500 trees thus far. Some guys looked at what we were doing and said "deer can easily jump over that" or words to that effect. Thing is, I'm not after trying to determine the limits of what deer can do, I'm trying to influence what they will do. 2 different things! So, it seems that in some cases, all one needs to do is discourage herbivory, not absolutely prevent it. This story isn't over however, so maybe a year from now, you'll see me writing a sad story here about deer eating up all our cedar and tamarack trees! But the simple method I describe seems to work so far. Another option is the spray-on repellents, stuff like Plantskydd. Mmmm....rotting pig blood! +oM...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agoEmbothrium
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoTodd C
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoSmivies (Ontario - 5b)
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