hilmav, Bless you. WE have a relatively new lawnmower and were having a hell of a time keeping it going. We had it serviced several months ago and it worked okay for a couple of months...Today it started and stopped... I was frustrated as I had no idea how to clean the carburetor etc as most people recommended (I also didn't have the tools to do it.) I tried the prime while motor running and eventually it began to stay going and running smoothly. I have a postage sized lawn and is newly mown and a solution to what has been an ongoing issue. THANK YOU

It could work out that way. For the blade adapter, put some penetrant on it and let it sit overnight. Strike the flat near the corner as if trying to spin it on the crank - it should come off. If not, take a propane torch and quickly heat the adapter but not the crank and hit it again. It's not an interference fit - it's just rusted on to the 45 degree bevel on the end of the crank. Then you can remove the muffler cover and baffle, followed by the muffler plate. This gives access to the lower seal. Before removing the old seal, take a strip of emery cloth and lightly shine up the crankshaft, removing the rust and buildup. Wipe it down with a clean oily cloth to remove any dirt or grit. Remove the old seal. Clean the seal area with a Q-Tip. Slide the new seal up the crank and press it into place. This might require the use of a piece of PVC pipe cut off square with a tubing cutter to slip over the crank and evenly seat the seal. To test lower bearing wear, grab the crankshaft and push/pull it to get a feel for the vertical play. Then, with the blade on tightly, push down on one end of the blade while pulling up on the other. Rock it back and forth to see how much side play there is in the bearing. There is always a little play because they are roller bearings, but you should see no more than about 1/16" at the blade end, and about the same vertical play. After thinking about it some more, I'm still not convinced that most of your trouble isn't with a dirty carb. From my experience and what I read here, most of them will run with a bad seal but just won't develop full power. Your symptoms sound like no gas getting through the carb.

Did you have the "anti-backfire" solenoid out of the carburetor and check it to see if it is working as designed? With the solenoid out of carb, can you push the plunger (part sticking out of carb end of solenoid) with your finger? Does it pop back out when you remove your finger? If the answer to either question is no, put some spray carb cleaner (such as Gumout or Carb Medic brand for example) in a small container (such as the cap from an aerosol can) and stand the solenoid in this liquid so that only the plunger and barrel are immersed. Allow it to soak for an hour or so and try pushing in on the plunger. If you get the plunger freed up to where it pops back out by itself, go on the the electrical tests. If the answer to both questions is yes, proceed to test the electrical function of solenoid. (you may need a helper to sit in the tractor seat to perform these next tests). Unplug the solenoid wiring connector. Turn the ignition switch to the run position (just "run", not crank). Using a 12 volt test light or volt meter, check the wires for 12 volts (it will be one wire only, the other is a ground). If you DO NOT have 12 volts you will need to find out why (blown fuse or defective safety interlock switch). If you DO HAVE 12 volts, continue to test solenoid electrically. With the solenoid removed from carb, re-attach the solenoid wiring to the tractor wiring harness. Turn the ignition switch to the run position (just "run", not crank). The solenoid plunger should be drawn into the solenoid barrel with an audible click (if it does not act by itself, push in on the plunger with a finger tip, if it draws into the barrel after this, it should stay there until you turn off the key switch. If the plunger moved freely in & out during the intial test (finger only-no electricity) but will not move with electrical power applied, there is a good chance the solenoid is defective. You will need to do a couple more tests with an Ohm meter before condemning the solenoid for certain. Unplug the solenoid from the tractor harness, using the technique (from earlier, be sure the seat is occupied) for testing for 12 volts, identify the wire that shows voltage. Using your Ohm meter or a continuity tester, attach one test lead from meter to the "WIRE THAT DOES NOT SHOW 12 volts" and the other wire to the NEGATIVE post of battery. If this test shows that there is no continuity between the end of wire and the Negative battery post, this circuit is defective. You will need to find the cause, it could be a "ground side" acting safety switch if your machine uses these. If this test shows that there is continuity between the end of wire and the Negative battery post, this circuit is good and you now need to do the final electrical test on the solenoid itself. Using an Ohm meter, attach one test lead to each solenoid wire. If the solenoid windings (inner wire coils) are good, the Ohm meter should display some kind of reading from about 20 OHM to 300 or higher OHM (guessing as specs of your solenoid not known to me). If your solenoid reads "infinity", it is open. If your solenoid reads "zero OHM", it is shorted. Either case and you will need a new solenoid.

You're welcome, and thank you! I still have more new ones with scapes on them, the flowers haven't opened yet. With the warm sunny days we're going to have this week, I'm sure it'll be no time before those open. I'm so glad I found this forum, that introduced me to the LA, where I got about 90% of my new ones. I'm looking ahead to next year to figure out where my next lily bed will be...heck, I'll probably start it in the fall when it gets cooler and do what I did this past winter, buy a bunch of daylilies to fill it up and plant them all next spring, and have too many to put in it so I have to build another bed! karen