Sounds like something in the jet of the carb not letting fuel through.

I agree, take the float bowl off and check for fuel. You may need to clean it and blow it out. My pressure washer did the same thing

I would remove the carb and clean it well, blow out all passage ways and jets with the spray tube on a can of carb cleaner and re-install. You might also drain and check the tank as some have screens in the tank that could stop up. I always recomend that you install an inline fuel filter, I like the paper element ones that Briggs and Stratton markets. If your mower doesn't have a fuel shut-off valve then now might be a good time to install an inline one too. Another way that dirt gets into the carb float bowl to plug up jets is through the primmer system. I found fine dirt was entering my carbs through the tiny hole in the primer button as it also does double duty as a vent. To solve this I cut small discs of air filter element material oiled them and installed them under (inside) the primer button. Don't forget to clean the primer tube and button first.

I agree with the above posts.

1 Air Vane & Shaft
2 Retainer, Speed Control
3 Lever, Speed Adjust
4 Collar, Air Vane
5 Spring, Governor
6 Disc, Throttle
7 Bracket, Throttle Control
8 Screw
9 Carburetor Body
10 Kit, Float Valve,Body & Seat(Incl Ref.#12)
12 Spring
13 Gasket
14 Nozzle
15 Filter, Fuel
16 Float & Arm Assembly
17 Pin
18 Float Chamber
19 Screw
20 Washer
21 Main Jet

Note: Your carburetor technically has orifices, not jets.

I took the mower in for a check and got the diagnosis this morning. They said there's a bad seal. With repairs starting at $200, they didn't think it was worth repairing. I asked about the carb. and they didn't even look at it. I asked if a bad seal would explain the symptoms I had, they said yes. I asked if this is something that fails gradually or quickly, they said either. Any comments?

While we're at it, I could use advice on a replacement for the 10201. I've read that the 10550 is popular but hard to come by, and the 10684, although 4-cycle, is a popular modern mower. But I'll take anything under consideration.
These are my qualifications:

I have 1/2 acre of land, quite flat.

It must mulch. I have no interest in bagging clippings. If there's a cheaper model that comes with no bagging attachments, fine by me.

I have no interest in self-propel. Pushing a lawn mower is about the only exercise I get. If I have to get self-propel, I want to have the option of not using it.

I have no problem doing oil changes or whatever routine maintenance items that are specified in the manual.

I picked up my mower from the shop. Lower seal bad. $200 to fix. If it were their machine, they'd replace the whole engine block for $400 because there's some scoring on the cylinder. On the other hand, they say, it's not worth fixing since it's 11 years old. They say 9 out of 10 older Lawn Boys that are brought in that won't start are due to lower seals.

I'm no sucker, but I need B.S. detectors on high from others out there because I'm not mechanically inclined beyond routine stuff.

If that has a V-series motor, I do believe I have heard of people having problems with the lower seal. Replacement can be done for much less than you're quoted, but that is a steel-deck mower, right? What kind of shape is the deck in? If the deck is in good shape, I might try to find a replacement motor for it. If you have any doubts on the shape of the deck, I'd just buy a newer mower.

As far as I can tell, the deck is in good shape. Mowers are hard to come by around here (Dayton, OH) this time of year, so I took mine to another shop for a second opinion.

Can anyone can recommend a site that specializes in selling those good ol' 2 cycle mowers or clearance on this year's or last year's models? I'm watching eBay as well.

The 200 dollars is mostly Labor cost. I buy those seals by the scores and they run in the three dollar range. As for the cylinder scoring a good cleaning and some new rings for the piston (twelve dollars) and replace the reed valve (three dollars) and she would be good as new I'll bet.

Labor cost is how they make the $$. It's too bad you can't fix it yourself. You could save tons of cash and possibbly have fun. Thats what I did on my first overhaul. I was petrified because I thought I didn't know what I was doing and after awhile of research and prep work I tore into my first engine and I haven't looked back with any regret.

There is a manual that gives step by step instructions on the lawnboy website for the "V" series engine you have. You can download it and print it for free.
At least check it out.

On the replacement engine 400 is way too much in my opinion.
You have an engine its just a little sick right now.

Neal

That 10201 has to be at least 11 years old. If the lower seal is bad, that means it's been sucking in dirty air for some time, which would most likely be the reason for the scoring and probably a worn-out lower crank bearing as well. Unless you can do the work yourself, I think it's NEW MOWER TIME! I would recommend the Lawn-Boy 10654 because it's 22" for your large area, has the proven Toro Recycler deck and a Honda GCV160 engine. MSRP on this is $349 and you probably can get it cheaper. Interestingly, you can sell the 10201 as-is on ebay if you're willing to take a few pictures and box it up. I think it's very rebuildable and would possibly fetch enough to make selling it worthwhile. An alternative is to check ebay to see if there are any 'V' engines for sale. Sometimes sellers don't know it's a 'V', so they just say '4.5 HP Commercial Grade'.

I agree with Indy, if you have more time than money, give it a shot to repair. A seal is about $3. that's all I would replace. The hard part of the job is getting the blade adapter off. If you can't get it off, probably a local auto mechanic or local mower shop can do it for you. The lower seal itself pries out with a small screwdriver just be careful not to scratch the shaft. A new goes in easy.

I would not worry about scoring or bearing damage. $3 and you would be good to go.

It could work out that way. For the blade adapter, put some penetrant on it and let it sit overnight. Strike the flat near the corner as if trying to spin it on the crank - it should come off. If not, take a propane torch and quickly heat the adapter but not the crank and hit it again. It's not an interference fit - it's just rusted on to the 45 degree bevel on the end of the crank. Then you can remove the muffler cover and baffle, followed by the muffler plate. This gives access to the lower seal. Before removing the old seal, take a strip of emery cloth and lightly shine up the crankshaft, removing the rust and buildup. Wipe it down with a clean oily cloth to remove any dirt or grit. Remove the old seal. Clean the seal area with a Q-Tip. Slide the new seal up the crank and press it into place. This might require the use of a piece of PVC pipe cut off square with a tubing cutter to slip over the crank and evenly seat the seal.
To test lower bearing wear, grab the crankshaft and push/pull it to get a feel for the vertical play. Then, with the blade on tightly, push down on one end of the blade while pulling up on the other. Rock it back and forth to see how much side play there is in the bearing. There is always a little play because they are roller bearings, but you should see no more than about 1/16" at the blade end, and about the same vertical play.
After thinking about it some more, I'm still not convinced that most of your trouble isn't with a dirty carb. From my experience and what I read here, most of them will run with a bad seal but just won't develop full power. Your symptoms sound like no gas getting through the carb.

I never bought a seal for a "V" Engine but the "C", "D" and "F" which all use the same seal, cost me about a buck. Don't know what the "V" and Duraforce use.

Walt Conner

The 'V' was derived from the 'F', so it should be the same seal. The 'E' (Duraforce) may be bigger, and the case is supposed to be split to install it.

Thanks for all the advice up to this point. I have had the engine service manual for awhile, so I will take a look at it, as well as the specific directions posted here. The blade adaptor was taken off by the first shop. When I tried to get it off a couple months ago to clean out the exhaust ports, I couldn't get it to budge to the point that I thought it was never MEANT to come off and thus the service manual was wrong. I was still able to get the muffler cover and baffle off despite the blade adaptor being there (a little patience) and get to cleaning out the ports.

In any case, I'm with saxman1 and his thoughts on the carb. I still think it's that, too, and that's why I took it to the second shop. That's what they thought it would be as well (and I was hush-hush other than describing the symptoms). The first shop, I think, really chose to ignore my real request to take apart the carb. and instead stopped at the first problem they saw (the seal).

My neighbor had a Lawn Boy with the same problem.
It was the gas cap.

Resolution: 2nd shop cleaned the carb. Billed for one hour of labor and the mower's back in business.

A guy dropped an L-B off here, all apart-said it did same thing. I reassembled machine, poked a sharp wire thru the fuel tank cap, and it ran perfectly!