I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.

Thanks for all the comments!! Re price, the models I'm looking at are comparable to SubZero and Gaggenau. Turns out there's a new Miele showroom, so I went there today, but they didn't have the 30" freezer. What I did learn (as those of you who have them know) is that the fridge door holders come out of their rims like the wire ones in the freezer do. Also, that the shelves (the rims) remove by sliding them to the top. This rail system is very secure, but that's why the pieces come out--so you can clean easily without removing all of them. Tommy, thanks for the custserv review! Thanks, Lucypwd, for the answer about the deli drawer. I've been very confused about that. The "floating" drawer seems to be in the 36" over under, where it's small and slides back and forth under a shelf. David, I don't know of my own experience, but all of the literature calls the lights halogens, and the guy at the showroom called them "appliance halogens". Maybe they really are LEDs, but that's not what they say. I also found out that the columns are identical in every size, just wider. Has anyone seen the 30" freezer? Does the icemaker extend all the way across? Or is there some kind of storage next to it? Canuck, I guess you might not have had your SZ for long enough to really know, but have you noticed the ethylene filter working? One more good I learned is that, according to the rep, the kit for installing the units next to each other is a heat shield, and works no matter which direction they open. (SZ have to open armoire style.) They also told me that having a Miele certified installer do the installation doubles the warranty. Re construction, the rep said that while the box, compressors, and other big parts are made in the Turkay plant, the electronics are made by Miele in Germany. He said that they spent 7 years developing the American style refrigerators. That sounds like so much marketing but is probably pretty true. I'm pretty convinced to go with the 30" and 30". I can stand dealing with the kind of issues Lucy is having, if necessary (I was in the showroom for the better part of an hour, and they had three fridges and two freezers running, and all were practically silent, so I'm hoping your tech can fix yours). And I like the sizes and fitments better than on any other units I've seen. More comments are surely welcome. :)

Yes. Plato is a really nice cabinet line. I live in Mn and was considering using them. I did get a bid and actually toured the factory. Very good quality and finishing. I ended up buying Crystal(MN made,too)because I liked the door style. I also toured Crystal and it is also very nice quality. You would not be disappointed in the quality, but ask for a GOOD discount. I mean better than usual. Check out Sawhill Kitchen's website. They use mainly Plato. You can get a good idea of the design possibilities. Good Luck!

I've had a Miele DW, since 2006, trouble free and I love it, (I mention this so one (or more), don't deduce from my following comment that I'm a "Miele Hater". What I do hate is their pricing and marketing, both for the initial purchase of the appliance, but worse yet, their service and parts policy. The reason the board is the price it is, is it can only be bought from Miele. I tried to get a service manual, schematic, a parts list for Brett's fridge. I struck out!!! Nothing Nada, even on some of the well known appliance parts stores. Most of the other manufactures appliance parts are readily available from numerous sources, as are schematics, service manuals etc, (well Except for Wolf), who does business the same way Miele does, (A "closed after market parts system") as they want you to buy the parts from them, and with NO competition, they can price the parts as they darn well please. That's just a "fact of life", something you may choose to ignor when you choose the "BIG SZ/W or the BIG M" or probably the "BIG G" too, alto I have been able to find Gaggenau parts on the net and many are interchangeable with either Bosch, Thjermador or both. This does not mean I am recommending you not buy these, (recalls my Miele DW), I just want folks to know the facts before they buy, and if they choose to ignor, well that's their money and that's their business. Gary