Malcolm:

I have a few apple trees that I had to stake due to my orchard site being very windy or due to the rootstock I got with some of my apple trees.

I use metal fencing stakes that I can purchase locally at a hardware store. A sturdy wood post will work too. Pound the post in close to the tree and fasten the tree with rubber tie, zip strip ect. Put the post on the windy side of the tree. Make sure you drive the stake in deep enough to support the tree well.

Anything you use to fasten the tree to the stake will not last forever so every few years I replace the fastening material as plastic and rubber both age in the sun/cold.

I would stake the tree as soon as you can assuming your ground is not already froze where you are. No sense in letting it tip further due to wind or soft ground.

Thanks for your response. I was considering excavating it and re-straightening and then staking. Is that a bad move? Also, for future information, how long should one stake a bare root whip when they first transplant it?

Malcolm:

Excavating and re-planting will work. We do it all the time at the nursery I work at when moving existing small trees on landscape sites.. The issue however is that an apple tree that is 4 years old will not take kindly to being moved if the roots are badly disturbed. Be careful so you do not bare-root the tree in the process. Also be sure to do this only when the tree is dormant.

How tall is the tree and what is the caliper at 6" above ground? Best to try and dig around the tree and leave a big enough rootball when trying to straighten it. I will presume if planted from bare-root initially, the tree most likely is currently 2.5" in caliper? 2.5" BB trees are normally dug with a 28" wide rootball, and 2" trees are dug with a 24" rootball. Just to give you a guide to leave enough soil mass around the roots when digging around the tree.

If your tree is too far tipped over currently, I would excavate when the tree is dormant and straighten it. If not too tipped, then I would try to just stake it to prevent further tipping and hopefully partially correct the lean.

Stake a bare-root whip? I normally do not stake them unless they need to be staked. They may need to be staked based on the rootstock (M-9, Bud-9, ect must be staked). Or I stake them if they are crooked to begin with or my site is very windy and I want them to grow straight by using the stake to fasten them to. Staking is not always necessary.

Malcolm,

The tree doesn't need to be dormant. I've staked trees that were full of fruit and leaning because of the fruit load. I take a 4ft piece of rebar and drive it into the ground around halfway. Then I take galvanized wire and run it through a section of unused garden hose. Then wrap it around the bottom of the tree, until it straightens up, and secure it to the rebar. The garden hose keeps the wire from cutting into the tree. I've used this method for years, and it seems to be a permanent fix. Make sure you use galvanized wire, or else it will rust. There is no need to stress the tree by digging it up. The tree usually will not produce viable fruit the next year, if you do

Thanks for all the information. My intent is to try and re-straighten the tree with as little disturbance to the tree/root system as possible. I think all I would need to do is dig on the opposite end the tree is leaning, pull it back to re-level it, fill in the area of the ground I excavated and then stake the tree. Does this sound like a good plan?

Also, what material/products would you suggest I use to stake the tree and how long should it be staked?

Rayrose:

I agree the tree does not need to be dormant to stake. However I would prefer it was dormant if it is to be partially dug out to straighten the lean. Doing so when the tree is actively growing in full leaf will really stress it if the roots are disturbed. Sorry I may have not been clear enough on that in my first post.

Malcolm.

I've told you what I use and I leave mine permanently staked. Unless you actually see exposed roots, personally I would leave them alone. The only time I disturb roots, is when I'm moving the tree to another spot.

Ray,

Sorry.. for some reason I didn't see you post. So you're suggesting not to excavate at all, just to pull it so it's straight and then stake right? Any idea where I would obtain galvanized wire?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-14-Gauge-x-100-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Wire-50142/100200924

Assuming you have a rootstock and soil amenable to supporting a free-standing tree, In addition to staking it, you could in-arch graft another root stock. Plant it close to the base of the tree on the side that had lifted up and splice it into the tree in the spring.

You can correct a lot of leaning with staking. If it's only 4 years old it should be pretty easy. Everyone has their personal preference as to how to do that. What they all have in common is to apply force in the opposite direction of the leaning to bring it back to an upright position.

I've picked up smaller trees that cars had knocked over and staked them up until they could grow new roots to restabilise them self.

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I'll most likely be implementing everyone's advice this weekend and will provide some before and after pics..

Do you know what rootstock the tree in on? I would be inclined to leave the stake in permanently if you're unsure. As far as I know all dwarf and most semi-dwarf rootstocks would benefit from permanent support on windy sites.