Overages
Missi Smith Design Co.
8 years ago
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Contractor Asking for Overages after Signing Contractor Affidavit
Comments (13)So, it is now four and a half months after we closed on the house and the contractor just informed my husband today that he is going to sue us. My husband told him to go ahead and try. We met with our lawyer this past week after the contractor started calling again (he needs more money since he didn't pay all the suppliers and they are now placing liens against him and are going after him criminally). The lawyer reviewed our contract and says that since the contractor signed the Contractor Affidavit (stating that he has been paid in full and has no rights to any more payments, liens, materials, etc). AND because he never produced change orders for the changes in question, we should be off the hook. Of course, we will see what his lawyer says about all of this. We are prepared to countersue if necessary. We have had cracks in walls that keep re-appearing after the contractor has come back to fix them multiple times. Hired a structural engineer this week and he showed me that the foundation was not done correctly. Basically, we are going to have to jack up a portion of the foundation and install more beams. Additionally, discovered that he did not do the soil compaction to the specs in the contract nor the envelope of the house. We have discovered multiple breaches of contract (did not use spec'd materials but instead used cheaper materials and charged higher price, etc). This is turning into a nightmare. Have you ever heard of a contractor winning a court case over overages for which there was NO change orders and that were not brought to the owner's attention until AFTER the closing?...See MoreWaste % overage for herringbone pattern tile
Comments (5)I've never had an issue going with 10%, because more times than not the cut offs can be used for other cuts. Even with diagonal herring bone....See MoreOverage areas to watch out for
Comments (23)Some of our changes were things that just weren't really specified before hand, or underspecified. For example, we didn't know that the standard way to do an open staircase around here was to have a mini wall in the middle. We wanted it completely open, so we paid a little more to have them re-engineer and build the staircase the way we wanted it. Plumbing and electrical went up a little bit (not based on selections), but not by a lot. Most however, were things that we decided to do differently once we were actually able to see choices in person, do more research, etc. One major thing we decided to do was go with LP siding, rather than vinyl. Also, turns out the cost for trim can go up by nearly a factor of 10 when you decide to do a 2 piece, wide poplar casing and thick baseboards. instead of mdf. That was really surprising to us. Just flat poplar instead of mdf would have been a difference of around $5k. We didn't even do any crown molding or anything, and nearly doubled what we had budgeted for trim work (we had budgeted for flat poplar). We really thought about the way we live and the layout of our house before we signed our contract, so we didn't make any real changes to the structure. We didn't really run into any complicated lot issues (other than city fee), so that was nice. Before signing our contract with our builder we did go meet with a bunch of his contractors to make tentative selections that we could base the contract price on. However, I have to say, we're surprised by how much our tastes changed from our first meetings with people to now (just a matter of days 'til we move in). One thing that became really important to us, which we didn't really realize when we started, was to add as many historic elements as we could afford in order to recreate the charm and character that we love about older homes. Since you really can't get authentic looking details without a lot more labor (and usually more expensive materials), that really drove the cost up on some items. Our carpenters probably love and hate me. Thinking about it now, most of that extra expense has gone to our various carpenters (that's totally ok with me, because they're awesome). I do think you should have a little extra room in your budget that will allow you to be flexible with your style and choices as you go through the project. You probably won't make such extreme deviations from your original design concept, but I can all but guarantee things will come up that you'll want to do differently. Adding architectural details usually worth the extra money in my book, but it might not be to you. Still, if you can, I think leaving some room for things you don't really need, but come to love, is something you should definitely do. Sorry for the long-winded response, but hopefully it's helpful....See Moreoverage size range? What size hood to fit over (the average) range?
Comments (8)The OP wrote: "So...I’d love the size of a larger range and a larger hood just for “style”..." Few want a larger hood for style; most resist having a larger hood even though it increases effectiveness at the cost of more required air flow rate and potentially a deliberate means of supplying make-up air. Cooking plumes expand as they rise, hence the hood capture aperture has to be larger than the area occupied by whatever pans might be used on the cooking surface. Otherwise, the effluent partially spreads into the kitchen allowing grease and moisture to settle on surfaces, and odor to spread and linger. A six-inch wider hood helps achieve this. A large enough front-to-back dimension is also needed. Assume the plumes expand at an angle of about 10 degrees from the vertical. The hot cooking plumes will have an upward velocity that depends on cooking surface temperatures and presence or not of gas combustion products. When these plumes (to the extent that they are captured by a large enough hood) reach the hood filter, they will bounce off due to conservation of momentum unless the air velocity induced at the filter by the hood blower is high enough. Commercial and residential practice suggest a value of 90 ft/min at the hood entry aperture (not the filter) is sufficient to retain the effluent and achieve containment. 90 ft/min is equivalent to 90 CFM per square foot of hood entry aperture. Use of induction cooking without any searing or wokking or hot frying may allow a lower value, but not below 60 ft/min. Hood blowers can only meet their specified zero pressure loss flow rate when hanging in free air. All other configurations have pressure loss (air flow resistance) as a function of flow rate, and thus when installed each blower flows less than its rated value. Buying a blower rated around 1.5 times that needed for containment (see above) should overcome the likely pressure losses, assuming there is a make-up air path suitable for the flow rate....See MoreMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co. thanked Virgil Carter Fine ArtMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years ago
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