Probably the diverter valve is bad or clogged with something (such a dime or hairpin) preventing it from fully seating into recirculation mode. You're not doing the diagnostic correctly. Press Spin Up as many times as needed (should be 3 times) to get BOTH the Hold and Slow lights on. Press Spin Down to back up if you overshoot the mark. There are sixteen diagnostic modes. The number of times pressing the spin speed buttons isn't the key ... it's which spin speed lights are on. Pressing the buttons scrolls up and down through the levels to get into the correct mode. The fault code won't display if you're in the wrong diagnostic mode. The Perm Press cycle should work without error if the diverter not shifting into recirculate mode is the problem. Perm Press doesn't involve the recirculation function.

Yes, the motor board can fail in a way that keeps the diverter powered continuously (whenever the machine is connected to power). Unfortunately, the board probably has gone bad again for some reason. From where did you source the new board? Display boards can go bad but less common than motor boards. Did you remove the display board from the console during your investigations? Is it perhaps askew such that the far-left buttons are misaligned from the overlay? There's no way to access diagnostic mode or any other set-up mode (such as machine size) if the machine is non-responsive. Fault codes are viewed by pressing Spin Speed (up or down) until both Slow and Hold are lit. You did that procedure correctly when checking? Machine Size is set (with power off) by pressing/holding Water Temp Up (instead of Temp Down for Diagnostics), then Power. The selected size is indicated by Cold (small tub), Low (medium tub), or Hold (large tub). Press the the appropriate Temp, Level, or Spin Up button to select, then Power to exit. All US machines are large tub. You can try swapping-in the old board if you still have it to see what happens. It works other than the diverter problem? The various wire connectors are different sizes so should only fit to the correct locations (other than a smaller connector possibly into a wrong larger socket).

Problem solved! I wanted to thank you dadoes for your help. I feel a bit ashamed for letting this get out of control and for not opening my eyes when I had the tub out of the machine. The crud built up on the outside of the drum was so thick that it had slowly blocked the slits in the drum. Thus, much of the water on the rinse and spin cycles was trapped in the drum with the clothes. This cause out of balance problem, caused the machine to sense problems due to too much weight (?), and kept the clothes wet. I fashioned a piece of plastic to act as the lid plunger and was able to run the machine without the lid. As the machine stopped spinning, I could see water slosh down the side of the was tub and settle in the bottom of the tub. The first picture shows the tub blocked by the crud. The second picture (next message) shows the slits in the tub cleaned after using a 3000 psi power washer with 0 degree tip! I use this setup to blast commercial crab pots clean. Notice it still was unable to clean the calcified crud from the stainless tub. Any suggestions as to what I can use to soften this crud so that I could power wash it clean?

My IWL12 plays 3 tunes, as does my DishDrawer. Correct way to access Demo Mode on GWL11 is press/hold Advance first, then press Power at the same time. Pressing Power turns the machine off but Demo Mode remains active when turned back on, and a cycle cannot be started. Exiting Demo Mode requires disconnecting the power cord for about 15 seconds.