@Donna37 RPSinfoman detailed just above most of the secondary functions available on the LG and Kenmores through pushing cycle options together and holding for a short period of time. My machine dates from 2012 so I don't know if these are available for older machines but it wouldn't hurt to try. If I look at my selection dial it doesn't list just a spin option, just a rinse and spin. I thought that very strange as all my older machines going back to the dinosaurs had that capability. If you press the power on button. Do not select a cycle, but do select a spin option on the spin speed and then push the start/pause button to the right of the selection dial: Viola, the machine defaults to the normal cycle and begins to spin at the selected speed no rinse included.. Doesn't mention it in my manual or the revised manual I downloaded. Try this with a no spin laundry cycle that justs drains the water out. Then do your spin. It's amazing. Turning the power on/off button to off during a cycle will initiate a draining cycle. See more wonders above. There are a couple of others I don't remember is older threads.

In case there is still confusion about the efficacy of sodium percarbonate…it is a soldified form of hydrogen peroxide. As others have mentioned, when it is added to water it eventually deteriorates into Oxygen, water, and sodium carbonate (think super washing soda). When it is in the form of product like oxyclean original, it is buffered with extra sodium carbonate, but it is still approximately 65% sodium percarbonate which means that there is the equivalent of around 35% potentiLpotential hydrogen peroxide total in the container. In any temperature of water, the benefit is two fold for this product. The washing soda acts as a water softener, and the peroxide is a gentle whitening agent safe for colors. Hot water of course intensifies the effects of the peroxide as heat alone can accelerate the chemical reaction of the peroxide intensifying the whitening as well. peroxide is a type of oxidizer used to bleach things like textiles, or wood. It is what we use as a “developer” when we lighten/bleach or color hair. In that case the peroxide (with some micellaneous ingredients for stabilizing) is the ”activator” so to speak. Peroxide can also be a powerful antimicrobial, and even at concentrations as low as .5% it can kill pretty much every microbe in vitro. At just a 1% strength it has proven to do the same in actual practice, and unlike sodium hypochlorite(traditional bleach), quats, etc…the h2o2 kills these organisms regardless of whether the surfaces were cleaned prior, and reauired no rinsing after. One reason to add an activator is to speed up the deterioration of the H2O2 into oxygen and water. This is what is happening when the peroxide engages with any biologocal material. So the actovation is inevitable, but not necessarily consistent in timing. So if you want the percarbonate to become peroxide in the laundry liquor, but not degrade completely prior to doing its job. If that job is to whiten and stain lift then cool, it probbaly will not require any longer than normal wash duration. If what you want is whitening, stain lifting AND sanitizing all with cold or water, then you need an activator. Before the demonization of phosphates, trisodium phosphate was a common one. Now we tend to see EDTA moreso. Both are sequestrants or non precipitating water conditioners that chelate and remove metals from hard water. STPP is an excellent stain remover/whitening agent in its own right too. oxyclean sanitizer utilizes the sodium percarbonate with the EDTA to effectively sanitize your laundry after a 15 minute soak in cool water. If you add hot water you may notice more of an oxidizing effect where metal buttons will interact bleaching the color from the material in its direct vicinity. I can say pretty confidently that all percarbonate or perborate containing ”oxy” products will likely kill pathogens with a soak in warm water for 30 minutes. Companies must prove this is the case for their products in normal user & environmentally friendly conditions specifically to achieve the sanitizing labeling, and cold is preferred by most people curently. Not me. I still prefer warm or hot wash depending. For the same reason i dont generally run my dishwasher with cool water. I also prefer Biz over oxyclean or plain sodoum percarb cause the addition of the celulase enzyme seems to go a long way in getting rid of pilling, and restoring the softness of the fabric. Persil also contains that, and other protease enzymes.

OMG. Yes... I'm finally catching up, after a long day. Larsi... these were made by Lever Brothers, or "Unilever" (Parent Company) years & years ago. I know... a lot of us, have used or think of Wisk.. as the current product, made by Sun (absorbed Huish)... but this, is a real piece of laundry history. That's Orginal, Orginal Wisk, made by Lever, just... Whoa. Please don't take offense of this. But.. I don't think the country they we're manufactured in, had anything to do with the formula being low-sudsing. I think it had more to do, with the fact that Unilever had a "tried & true" formula, from their overseas operations, and decided to try it in America. Also... *and this is all speculation* but Maytag, allegedly did try to work with detergent companies to develop a "HE" or Low-Sudsing detergent, before.. they we're really a thing than. I *do* know they worked with Lever Brothers. This would have been in '98 or '99, when these Tabs launched. And I know they launched before the Tide Tabs. Who knows. Larsi... that's a legendary find ;)

a1an, I have a Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer. It has a unique detergent dispenser that doesn't open to release. The incoming water fill flow passes through it (either the prewash compartment or the main wash compartment at the proper time) to flush the detergent. The dispenser is designed only for powder. Tabs and pacs can't be placed in the dispenser ... they won't fit properly and won't flush out properly. Tabs and pacs are placed either into a compartment of the silverware basket or on the side shelves, and are exposed to water immediately on the first fill. Newer DD models have changed the cycle sequence to start at the main wash, or a single prerinse at most, to be more conducive to tabs/pacs. Either way, the dosage is too high IMO. I have fairly hard well-water and they cause a lot of foaming (or the Cascade Platinum did, can't say about others). I use 3 tsp of powder detergent for the main wash, 1 tsp for prewash.