Hi Weedy, Thanks for the reply-- We currently don't even walk on the deck, the beams meeting at the outside-left corner have completely rotted away and not supported by the posts... I swear it's inertia and friction holding the thing up this point... I like your idea of having just two retaining walls and leveling out the area, the trouble is that the lowest spot in my yard is not quite as low as I'd like the area under the deck to be, meaning in order to water away from the house I'd have to either build a retaining wall there or build up a small mound to provide grade. This is why I was thinking of building retaining walls on 3 sides to box in the whole area under the deck while incorporating a set of steps into one of the walls (probably right side) to keep access. For the footings, I figured I needed to 4' lower then the lowest point around me, just wanted to hear another opinion... this a lot of digging!! Regarding posts and retaining walls... my idea was that the footprint of the deck is exactly the same as the retaining wall--so are you suggesting making the deck larger then the footprint of the retaining wall, meaning the posts are set "outside" of the retaining wall? or smaller? I wasn't really expecting to gain much by incorporating posts into the retaining wall, just trying to maximize my space under the deck for storage. Currently the deck is about even w/ the window on the right side, and off by only a couple of feet on the other, so expanding the deck parallel w/ the house could only grow by 2-3' before it starts to overhang the windows (I think it's 8' now, so it could grow to maybe 10')... I could certainly grow the deck perpendicular to the house, that might be the best option, that would also allow me have more of the deck in the sun which would be nice. I'm doing a a "hybrid DIY" on the build, I'll be hiring a family friend who is a professional carpenter, so I do have hourly costs associated with the build, but all the same I'd still rather spend more now to get a better build :) Ideally I'll be getting "serious" around July 1st, applying for the permits, taking down the old deck, etc...

your kitchen is very close to mine. we built about 16 years ago. if i could change some things in my kitchen, i would have more space between the sink and stove so if you can, move the window and sink down a bit. i have a lazy susan and a dishwasher between the stove and sink and it is a bit too small for my prep. i personally love the L layout as i cut all the vegies, etc right by the sink and plop it right onto the stove. i find a sink across from the stove like in an island awkward. the other thing is i think your kitchen will feel cramped with an island. mine is 11'9" wide and i estimate i would need at least 2 more feet to do an island. you could have the slider open on the right instead of the standard left open and do a peninsula instead of an island. i couldn't do that because it blocks the slider opening but i really wanted too! there are lots of lovely peninsula kitchen on gw but they really need planning in a kitchen with a slider i took a pic of my kitchen as it is so close to what your builder plans are. no judging on the mess please:) i have been cooking all am!

@ RES, architect Same here been using Sketchup Pro since it 1st came out in 2000 and Chief Architect Pro ( before it was Chief Architect since 90s) In earlier days I have been using just for my own project designs and customers and for the last 10 years or so I been doing work for many customers...It seems this is the best way to get something designed that a homeowner can actually visualize the project as it was already built and you place them right inside the house and they can get a better feel how rooms interact with adjoining spaces, they can walk through the entire house, a finished basement, sit at the island of their kitchen, or the outdoors. Now I average about 100-150 designs a year for customers and contractors locally and nationwide with all kinds of projects... from simple furniture placement to entire 3D house layout, I have some builders they use my services for a spec home 3D visuals and real-time renderings, schematics for zoning board proposals, real estate agents, contractors, and homeowners, not to mention I work with some architects as well. IMHO This is the way to go nowadays to end up with a design you really want... I don't want the old-timers to take me the wrong way, quick pencil mack-ups are good in the field to give the customer an idea what you have in mind and to make sure this is what they like... but when you at home, you can present your customer with 3D images using available software in any way you like, sure it takes an investment, with plugins, certain renderers, etc the whole software packages ran me about 4k with bells and whistles that I need + monthly fees to display models and run online video sessions, etc but now when working with a customer when the initial model laid out... you can move walls, cabinets, swap elevation views, scenes, swap materials within seconds while the customer is watching and you can present them drawings in any style, shape, or form that they can pass onto their architect, builder, or contractor and with a visual everyone is on the same page. Here a few examples of different representation styles you can do with a mouse click.

Hi, David, Given that your stated preference for choosing a stock plan, I suggest you have three basic options with regard to selecting the land: 1. ) Pick the land and then find a plan to suit. 2.) Pick the plan and then find land to suit. 3.) A hybrid of 1.) and 2.) Include a study period as a contingency in any land purchase offer. The study period enables you to consult with various professionals to assess the feasibility of your project. If, for whatever reason it's not feasible, you get to walk away and don't get stuck with a piece of dirt. Keep in mind your total investment includes land cost, survey/architectural design/engineering cost, site development cost, home construction cost, landscaping, and any decorating such as window treatments. If you have Realtors involved, be aware they'll expect (okay, the right word is "demand") a referral fee for recommending builders and it's likely to be one of those hush-hush, under-the-table costs. Get real-world cost information for each category and test your budget against reality so you don't end up owning land that you can't build on because you overspent on that category and don't have enough money to build the home you want on it. Real-world design cost information comes from architects and designers who do that work for a living. Real-world site work comes from site work contractors who do that for a living. Real-world construction cost information comes from builders who do that work for a living. Get your cost information from the wrong sources and you can end up with an unpleasant "surprise."