The master bath has teak, but as you noted, it has a pedestal sink top on it. The countertop itself is still in pristine condition after...honestly, I've lost count of the years. I recommend a gloss polyurethane for the first few coats for durability, then changing to a satin poly for the for the finish coats to take the sheen down a bit. Four coats is what I used. My kitchen has a stainless sink undermounted on a teak countertop. That counter, like the bathroom tops, is edge-glued (actually epoxy) teak, although the kitchen tops are 8/4 (2" thick) planks where the bathroom countertops are 6/4 and the windowsill 4/4 (1" thick). With the kitchen being heavily used and prone to dents and dings, I didn't want a film finish like poly on it. So the kitchen countertops, both the edge-glued plank main countertops as well as the end-grain "butcher block" top, all have a basic wipe-on mineral oil "finish" on them that I renew maybe every 6 months or so. The kitchen gets heavily used and I probably let the sink area go longer than I should in term of renewing the mineral oil there. But there is zero damage to the wood around the sink. No end-grain checking no nothing. The teak still looks great. Because I prefer a non-film finish in the kitchen, especially around an undermount sink, teak is my recommendation due to it's durability. For a master bathroom where the countertop will see gentler use (no dropped cooking pans or cans or jars to dent the countertop and damage the film finish), I think any decent wood is fine with an undermount sink as long as a protective film finish like polyurethane is used. The poly will protect the wood from most any and all lotions and potions, as well as from water damage. Poly all sides of the countertop before you install it. If you only do the top and edges and not the bottom, you could get uneven seasonal movement of the wood and cupping of the top as a whole, perhaps even some cracks. A few years ago I got a good deal on some south american mahogany, I used some to make a front entry door for the house and some to make a large "L"-shaped mahogany countertop for my office. I finished the countertop with polyurethane. I'd use that in a bathroom. But most other woods are fine too as long as they are protected with a film finish like polyurethane. FWIW, all of my tops (the teak and the mahogany) are planks 6" to 8" wide that are edge-glued together with biscuits and epoxy. Titebond instead of epoxy work well too. If you use a less stable flatsawn wood, then ripping the planks into thinner strips and flipping every other piece to alternate the grain, then reglueing to get that faux "butcher block" look would give a more stable top than the more simple edge-glued wide-plank top. If you shop for lumber and find "vertical grain" wood, in general because of how it is milled, it will be more stable than "flat sawn" planks. In the above, if you look at the wood grain on the end of a piece of wood, if the grain lines are curved like "smiles" or "frowns" then that is generally flatsawn, or as they depict it in the drawing, "flatgrain" lumber. Flatsawn might stay flat in a countertop, but it is more prone to cupping across the width of the board. But you can take a wide piece of flatsawn lumber, cut it into, for example, 2" wide pieces, and flip every other piece over so the smiles and frowns alternate. Then glue it back together. That'll potentially give you a more stable top. If the grain is a bunch of vertical lines ("vertical grain" or VG), or close to vertical, then you have a piece of wood that is less prone to cupping and it could be used as a wide plank. All of that is probably too much information. And to be honest, one grain pattern over the other isn't the only ingredient in terms of being a recipe for success or failure. I don't mean to get too technical, but if you have the choice of selecting your wood based on grain pattern, why not chose the better piece? To be forewarned...why not? Still, despite grain, the biggest thing you can do to stabilize the top as a while is to finish the top, sides, and bottom of the countertop with equal coats of your chosen finish. Switching gears...In my kitchen I do have a true teak end-grain butcherblock island end cap, about 4' square and 5" thick, that I assembled with epoxy. It still looks great, but there is one minor grain check on one of the 5" sides. I my area where wood can be pricey, teak has gone through the roof in recent years, $30-$40 a board-foot. South American Mahogany (NOT Phillipine!) is around $8. But again, any decent wood can work for your purposes. I guess that's the v-e-r-y l-o-n-g answer? lol The short answer? Yes, wood in a master bath, if fully polyurethaned, could work with an undermount sink! And finally...maple, though a common wood for countertops, does move more than most other woods. Best of luck! (now I'll step away from the keyboard...honest!)

Lavender, WOW... your plan looks amazing! I am still deciding on what to put into the kitchen. I have always been drawn to clean lines but with warmth - I want the space to have some rusticity to it as well. I am hoping when we gut it that we will find the brick in good enough condition to keep it exposed. Another GW posted this picture and I just LOVE these floors. I had not considered porcelein/ceramic/stone floors because I really like the idea of something bullet proof (such as vinyl), but I dragged home a lot of samples for DH to look at and he is not thrilled about the idea of putting so much into the kitchen and then using vinyl on the floors. He loves this inspiration pic of the floors too so this is our new direction: This is what I am considering for the main kitchen for cabinetry - It would be a cove inset where the frame is 5/4 and the doors are 4/4 so the doors/drawers are recessed in - I will have the cabinets combined wherever possible so that there won't be any seams. I will also eliminate the rails between doors and drawers so that I can have extra space inside the cabinets - in other words, there will be a frame on the outside of the doors and drawers but no frame between them. The wood is called cerused oak, also known as limed oak... I saw a sample of it and fell for it (DH did too). It has sort of a worn old french look to it but also what I would consider an understated elegance. For the butler's pantry, I am thinking of something painted that will pick up on what happens in the kitchen. If I have any glass door cabinets in the kitchen, I will have the interiors of the cabinets painted with the same color as the butler's pantry cabinets. Ignore, the doorstyle, but I like this color that the cabinet company offers - it is called farm fresh: I want the butler's pantry to be a transition from the kitchen to the rest of the house. So the butler's pantry will be just a little bit more dressy than the kitchen. The kitchen will have what I would consider a "pro style" look to it but warm, homey, clean lines. I think what will tie the two spaces together will be doorstyle, flooring, and countertops. The floors in the rest of the house are a honey oak (which is not my favorite so I don't want to bring that in at all -- this is why I think painted cabinets in the butler's pantry will ease the transition of the honey oak floors in the rest of the house and the cerused oak cabinets in the kitchen). For the peninsula I am considering frameless cabinetry in a different doorstyle and having panels on the side and back of the cabinet that match this doorstyle but in the same cerused oak finish as on the other cabinet. Here is the doorstyle: I LOVE the arctic pear light fixture by Ochre but I highly doubt I can afford it, but I would like something decorative along these lines somewhere in either the kitchen, over the peninsula, over the sink in the butler's pantry or over the dining room table. It comes in several different sizes - obviously i wouldn't need anything as big as this but either way not sure it will make a difference as it is likely out of the budget My dining room looks like this... it is just on the other side of the butler's pantry and I am working toward having a cohesion between all the rooms - I like a lot of color - just love my orange chairs (they are from the 1940's and I recently had them reupholstered). I will paint the upper part of the dining room walls but will wait until after the kitchen is done so that I can tie in colors, etc. I am sure I have totally bored you by now, but thanks for looking!!

I have Ecos white diamond. It is awful after 6 yrs. Glass popping out. Color completely changed. We have followed manufacturers instructions to use only soap and water to clean. We have good city water. 2 of us living in the home 9 months out of the year. Cosentino first blamed water..?!?!?! And now a very small shaded window in our kitchen. Are you kidding me. A kit hen that uses no water and has no windows is a great place to install this product. Have been working with Cosentino and installers for over 9 months and have gotten nowhere at all. I'm disgusted with this product and that they actually get away with advertising it as a non staining, no maintenance product. Did I mention there are well over 100 pieces of glass that have chipped out. See photo. That is the sample of the product we purchased 6 yrs ago and the actual stained color it is now. Horrible. I wouldn't say its non staining. It's not a spot, the entire counter has degraded and changed color. Although we were td even though it is recycled it would not degrade over time. Save yourself, time and energy and purchase something better with a real warranty. The warranty nothing. Just a bunch of words.

Yes you're right! So I had the old Carrara marmi and they were getting a new lot in June that would be whiter so I think that ended up being the difference. They said the company switched manufacturers and the whole lot they had received was the off white tone of marmi. It's identical to the first picture! I had no idea there was a new vs old. Luckily they were very helpful and are allowing me to pick out any quartz from the show room and replace it for $300 whichever I choose. I could have gotten the new marmi but I would have to wait until June when it comes in. This felt like a great option to me though as the higher up quartz was not really in my price range at all. So I am happy with that and I got to look through many different styles of white quartz slabs in the warehouse and bring a few home to decide. They are going to replace the whole thing. Now I just have to choose between Cararra Morro and Calacutta Clara!