>>read the bible... it didnt answer my questions on bringing back a chemically damage lawn, or what the consequences of applying a super shot of nitrogen would do to an already damaged lawn. It doesn't really deal much with incidental problems (because there are so many). In this instance, over-application of Image caused some chlorosis. Whether it's blocking photosynthesis or chlorophyll production or iron uptake, I don't know, but the fact that the company recommended Ironite suggests it's blocking chlorophyll or iron uptake. Time is really the only cure for that, plus treating the symptoms. Milorganite will help with that, although it's not going to be the magic cure it can be on chlorotic lawns that aren't otherwise stressed. Flushing with water might help, but it takes quite a bit--usually three inches per water application, repeated several times in a reasonable time span. Three inches of water is fifteen hours with a standard oscillator (variable timings with an in-ground). Since I can't find if Image is soil binding or water soluble, whether it'll help at all is unknown. Super-shots of nitrogen are handled fairly well by Bermuda lawns, that I know, but there is a definite limit. On damaged lawn, I'd target 1 pound per thousand of nitrogen (synthetic) or slightly less and not stress it--but I'd also keep an eye on it and feed it again any time past the 2 week mark if it looks like it wants more to eat. Or, less but more often, roughly the way people eat when sick. I'm not a fan of excessive nitrogen on any grass at any time as that excess tends to end up in the air as an NOx compound or in the water supply, causing eutrophication in streams and lakes. I have no objection to normal amounts applied more often if the grass or gardens require it--air and water escape is far lower in that case. Still, there are cases where breaking that rule makes sense. A stressed lawn of any species isn't one of them, it's not going to be a super-heavy feeder at any particular instant, although to restore it feeding more often will probably be required to keep a steady flow of N into the grass and encourage it to spread into any dead areas. Bermuda is very happy to spread aggressively in warm weather when well-fed, so keeping a constant flow for the rest of the summer will certainly help with that.

Don't panic, patients is a virtue in gardening. Just make sure to keep everything moist enough (but not waterlogged) in the heat. You can always add organic matter on top of your soil as a mulch that will slowly break down and feed the soil microbes. Aged compost and worm castings are always safe to add and won't burn your plants. I like to fertilize using things like used coffee grounds or other seed meals since they are slow release fertilizers. If I have some greedy plants that like lots of nitrogen and phosphorus, I give them a small hand full of alfalfa pellets. Be careful with the blood meal as it is really strong and a little goes a very long way. Enjoy.

Thanks so much, paintguy! I think my problem may have been that after I cut in with a brush, I painted most of the ceiling with a 1" nap roller on an extension pole. ( I did get the good Purdy one.) I will say it got heavy fast, so I probably applied different pressures. Then I'd go to the ladder and shorter poles. And then, then next day to finish I used a 3/4" roller, and for touch-ups I'd grab a brush. As far as the paint not sticking by the crown, I suspect the old caulk may have been silicone? Glad to hear I don't need scaffolding! And I would call in a pro, but I thought this would be an easy enough job that I could tackle myself, and save the pros for actual construction stuff. I guess a pro would have finished long, long before I ever will, tho! So...maybe different applicators and different pressures are the problem? Sometimes in certain light it almost looks like I used different sheens, but it's all the SW ceiling paint, Wool Skein. I think I'll call this the first coat, and go over it all again with the same roller nap! Again, thanks so much!

I think Craig's List might be your best bet; most of the buyers on EBAY will need to pay shipping which will drive down the price they're willing to pay. If the stools are still in mint condition, you could check the the store where you bought them and see if they'll take them back minus a re-stocking fee - The worst they can do is say no. Best wishes.