A group to discuss fruit trees to graft in zones 2 & 3
Michelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years ago
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Michelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Some fruit tree questions (Zone 7)
Comments (6)The CaraCara- Welcome to the forum! Ill take a stab at this: I would stay well away from any trees that you find at Home Depot. I know this is not what you want to hear, but keep reading: 1.) The big box stores (like home Depot) are notorious for screwing up their varieties. Many times here on this forum youÂll see people complain that they wasted X (1-7) years on a tree only to find out that it wasnÂt even a Y (apple, pear, peach, etc) tree. To invest that much time only to find out it was all for nothing can be very disappointing. 2.) The big box stores are notorious for selling trees which wonÂt grow in your zone. TheyÂre happy to sell you a variety which doesnÂt have a chance of fruiting before winter sets in. 3.) Although a person new to fruit trees would look at a HD tree and say "Hmm, that seems healthy tree which is off to a good start", upon closer inspection, a fruit tree connoisseur would see problems right off the bat. A.) The trees almost always have poor crotch angles (which means branches that come off the central leader in a more vertical manner... these are much more likely to split later.) What you want are branches that come off at about 75 degrees which are stronger and much more fruit productive. B.) Scaffolding branches have not been planned at all. C.) Physical damage from being thrown in the trucks. These scars/injuries are good places for disease and insects to enter later. D.) The trees often have serious or even fatal diseases before you even bring them home. 4.) The people working there know nothing about fruit trees and canÂt help you. I was actually at Home Depot tonight and actually looked at their trees. Issues 3A, 3B, 3C, and perhaps #2 were obvious and rampant. As for 1 and 3D, only time will tell. (While I'm at it, stay well away from their carton'ed raspberries/grapes/etc. But that's another post!) But, donÂt worry, you can still get what you want. Just not from Home Depot. 1.) If I were you in PA, I would go to the Adam County Nursery or Cummins Nursery . Both specialize in fruit trees and are second to none in quality. Myself and many other people on this forum use them regularly for our fruit trees. If you venture to any other nursery, check with others here as there are some real ripoff nursery websites out there. 2.) Your apples and peaches do not want to come in to your garage for the winter. They need to go dormant for the winter. 3.) Peaches are self-pollinating, but apples need two varieties to cross pollinate and then give you fruit. (ItÂs a little more complex than that, so write back once you start thinking about varieties and people here can show you how to tell if Apple A will cross pollinate with apple B) If you only have room for 1 tree, then consider a multigrafted tree (multiple apple types on 1 tree!). To check them out, go to Rain Tree Nursery and then search for 5x1, 4x1, 3x1, or 2x1 and then "apple". 4.) Keep in mind, that as romantic as these trees seem, itÂs not just plant then harvest. You will need to spray these trees or you will just get worm-ridden disease invested fruit trees. The spraying is doable, and people here can show you what to do, but you just need to be prepared for it. Let us know what your thoughts are, and IÂm sure people here can help you more. Hope this helps -Glenn...See MoreCan I graft multi fruits to a mature peach tree?
Comments (91)I've always felt that I needed the good mechanical pull that a budding rubber provides, and to keep it from drying out I think it needs to be sealed with parafilm or wax. Parafilm is my first choice because it breathes a little. But it's not enough by itself to make me feel secure! I used the Ace rubber tape this year on clefts and felt like it worked really well. Rubber tape or bands or rubbers all seem good to me. I think that if you use the wide budding rubbers or tape and overlap thoroughly then the parafilm/wax precaution is probably redundant, but it's cheap redundancy and I do it. I use wide and long rubbers also because it's easier to wrap them off- you have so much to work with, and they're cheap enough that you can afford to cut off excess. Like MiHiGirl I'm in the Rockies, but not at a mile high! We're at 3200 ft, give or take a couple of feet. But it's definitely an arid environment: we get about 12-13 inches total precip per year....See MoreTony's 2013 fruits harvest and newly graft persimmon tree
Comments (138)Hi Tony, Beautiful pics. I see your photo of Snowqueen nectarine. Can I safely assume you grew that fruit & did not buy it at the grocery? Seems like a silly question, but... most reports I've seen say that Snowqueen is one the most highly-rated nects for flavor, but is NOT cold hardy beyond Zone-7, which is why I have not attempted growing it on my vacation property in Zone-6b. Are you growing Snowqueen in the ground in Zone-5A Nebraska? Did it survive this past winter? If you are successfully fruiting Snowqueen in Zone-5A, then all bets are off! How old is the tree? From where did you obtain it? Was the fruit richly flavored? Thanks in advance for whatever information you can share. Cheers, -Matt...See MoreMulti-Grafted Stone Fruit Tree - Advice about Insects/Disease
Comments (8)As of right now, I have 5 different varieties on that tree. It's a 5 in 1, each variety being single except for the peach, of which there are 2 varieties on the tree. This is the third year in the ground and each graft has at least one fruit on it. The apricot and santa rosa plum have about 5 and 10 fruit respectively, after thinning. I also have a multi graft pluot 3 in 1, with 2 of those varieties being absolutely loaded with fruit even after thinning twice. I purchased a 4 in 1 apricot/aprium for my Mom and it formed up perfectly, with each graft growing about the same. Lots of fruit on it now. For my dad, I purchased a peach/nectarine 4 in 1. This one we had trouble with because I wasn't around to prune. We planted with the thinnest graft facing southwest, but the next thinnest faced the back and it is being shaded out by other grafts on each side. Those grafts have grown so aggressively that they have almost overtaken the 2 smaller grafts. I haven't been up to check in about a year so I don't know how it's doing over all....See Moresengyan
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoubro
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoapplemum
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoapplemum
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoGreg Brown
8 years agoubro
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years agoubro
8 years agodavidpeaceriver__2b
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMichelle Zone 3 - Mile -0- City
8 years ago
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