Need help with backyard project
Cherry Blossom
8 years ago
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gyr_falcon
8 years agoCherry Blossom
8 years agoRelated Discussions
New Construction House BackYard
Comments (6)Just get straight glyphosate - it doesn't have to be RoundUp specifically and there are less expensive brands of this herbicide on the market (Ferti-lome sells a product called Killzall that is less than half the price of the equivalent concentration and size of RoundUp). If you do go with the RoundUp, just select the Weed and Grass Killer - no need for any other additions to the mix. As I noted previously, you may very well need several applications and it is suggested to allow at least 2 weeks after the last treatment before reseeding. And it is too early to reseed - too hot and too dry for most northern, cool season grasses to germinate well. Generally, the ideal time for fall seeding is early fall - September to early October, depending on your specific climate. And any cool season turf grass blend recommended for your area is fine. Most independent garden centers - not the box stores - will have blends that are appropriate for your area....See MoreNeed help with newly cleared backyard
Comments (26)Haul it away. No unless you have money to burn. BTW, you could burn some of the bigger twigs to make them take up less space, but wood ash is very alkaline so don't heap it all in one place and expect things to grow there. 2. Pay someone to grind it . . . hmm. It seems like what you have is not enough to make that a cost-effective option but you might investigate. I just saw an ad in my local paper for someone who offers tree trimming and shredding but you don't know if that is just more of the same level as what you have, so investigate. I get very woody debris from the power companies out at the Arb. and we are always picking out sticks from it, but we just throw them into the woods for the most part. Finding someone with a good mulcher might be difficult but you never know. I am toying with buying a small electric one just for twigs around my yard, but have heard they don't last long. 2, OK to leave as is for a year? I would think so. As far as needing more mulch, you can figure that out in a year, see what you've got. If it looks shabby you can pick out the big stuff and then freshen it up with a top dressing of fancier mulch if you like. Stuff that isn't breaking down, the big pieces, aren't robbing the soil of nitrogen. I don't know about the smaller stuff, it depends. If in doubt, test the soil before you plant the grass. I think you're supposed to test the soil anyway. Some people get a load of topsoil to rake around before they seed a lawn, depending on how good or bad the soil is. Seems like your money would be best spent on something like that rather than futzing with your mulch. But test first. I don't think you're ruining your soil leaving mulch on it for a month or so. But if it were me, I'd read up on seeding a lawn and check off all my boxes for that. If you want a lawn, focus on doing the lawn. I think you are wise to just rake the stuff into the area you want to have for shrubs and leaving it. It will be fine in a year and then you can decide what to do with that area and what's left. I find it best to break up a big re-landscaping project into sections and focus on getting one part done at a time. Take some time out to enjoy your yard too!...See MoreNeed help with backyard!
Comments (5)What is your vision/description of a "flat space to play?" What's in it? How is it used? Many houses with this type land configuration have walk-out basements. Is there any possibility you'll be creating future access to the basement from the back yard? What kind of budget do you think you'll have for this project? Retaining walls are expensive and the budget might limit where your thinking goes. A mid-level deck seems more inviting to one who is at the first floor level. The ground is a long way down ... a long way for many of the activities that decks are good for. Plus, it seems that the elevated position offers some dramatic view potential ... not something to automatically suppress. Raised planters at the fence is not practical. What is needed is tall, screening plant material. The yard is small so it's going to be eaten up quickly....See MoreHelp Needed for Back Yard Patio Project
Comments (6)I'm with Yard on the paver size. Large format pavers are hard to work with, even for experienced crews. One 16x24 weighs 72 lbs, according to the Menards link. Keep in mind that you're not just plopping them down and moving on. Odds are, because you'll be learning as you go, that you'll be pulling pavers up and putting them back multiple times to get a smooth, even surface. Plus, I don't know what the quality of the pavers are, but generally box store pavers aren't the greatest. That can mean being slightly out of square or other issues that are magnified when using a bigger paver. I'd do a 4x8 border and a 4x8 in a herringbone or running bond pattern. In terms of your questions: 1. suck it up and make the cuts. Go slow and take off a little material at a time until you get good at it. This is another reason to use smaller pavers if you're not confident about the cuts! It's way easier to piece together a curve with several smaller pavers than to try and cut a clean arc in a slab. 2. Rectangular is fine, but if you feel up to it I like Yard's concept. I wouldn't waste time putting curves against the planting bed. Soften the edge with plants and you'll be fine. The curves in that inspiration photo are a terrific example of what NOT to do. Squiggles aren't good design. If it looks like a roadkill rattlesnake, don't do it. 3. border the whole thing unless you have a compelling design reason not to. I don't see a reason not to. 4. if your house has red brick avoid pavers w/ red in them. The red pigments in clay bricks and the red pigments in concrete pavers will never look right together. Don't skimp on your base, and don't forget to pitch the patio slightly to shed water. The biggest thing is don't rush. Stand up and step back frequently, because your surface can start to get "wavy" and you'll never see it from 2-3 feet away. When I built my first paver walkway in 1995 I tore it out and redid it 3 times because I was impatient (and, at 20, kinda stupid)....See Morecalistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
8 years agomelle_sacto is hot and dry in CA Zone 9/
8 years agoCherry Blossom
8 years agoNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
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8 years agoCherry Blossom
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8 years agoNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
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