Most successful way to winter over geraniums?
moliep
8 years ago
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Comments (9)
opossumtrax
8 years agoRelated Discussions
I need help with storing geraniums over the winter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Comments (16)The plant called geraniums that is grown as a bedding annual is actually a pelargonium. There was a mix-up back when old Linnaeus was running around naming things, and the name stuck ;-) Pelargoniums are annuals in the north, as a hard freeze will kill them. I keep some old blankets and sheets around, and just watch the forecasts. 'Pellies' aren't sissies about the cold though, they will do fine through a light frost with a blanket. I extend the season in the fall with blankets too. They just grow much slower when it is chilly. They also don't like it too hot either, by the way. Mine suffer a bit when it gets in the mid-high nineties. True geraniums are hardy perennials, many are native to North America. There is some similarities to the leaves, and the flower shape between the two species. But, pelargoniums are native to Africa, where they are perennials, and succulents at that. Both are great plants. Both get discussed on this forum. It is a bit confusing at first. If you overwintered yours in the house, you have pelargoniums. :-) The FAQs on this forum has a better explanation of the name mix-up than I gave. I can hardly wait to put my pellies outside for the year. :-) Oh, and I'm just a gardener out to learn. More knowledgeable posters, please correct anything that I was incorrect about....See MoreOver-wintering Geraniums
Comments (10)I'm assuming you are referring to pelargonium geraniums. If you wish to take cuttings from the plant just before any frost hits it, then that is one way to over-winter the plant. Take the slip by cutting just below a node. Each cutting should be about 4" long. Allow to set for a couple hours before putting it into freshwater, sharp sand. Sharp sand is the type builders use....not the beach variety or the sand from the kids sandbox. Dip the cuttings in some rooting hormone, shake off any excess and plant in the medium. Remove all but a couple of the top leaves. Put them then into cool light--no harsh sun--water as necessary to keep damp. Don't fertilize. Let them get some roots first, let them show you something before trying to force feed them. After they have rooted, put them into 4" pots. If you wish, start them in 2 1/2" pots before transplanting them into the 4"ers. Begin fertilizing according to their growth. Do quarter rate until they grow to size. Have you tried to over-winter them by simply putting them somewhere where they can be left alone....to dry out..completely. Don't think that plants to overwinter must be kept watered, kept moist, kept in light. That's nonsense.....where geraniums are concerned. If you can put the plant somewhere in a cool environment...cool being above freezing, below 55 or so. An old fridge will do...it must be tho kept running thru winter. That can be a problem for the cooling unit if the outside temperatures are near the zero mark. If you have such a place....then all you have to do is remove them from the container (or bed) they're in. Shake off any loose soil. Take them to the cool area and hang them up, upside down to stay there until we want them to grow again. No water, no light, no nothing....should touch the plants. They should be allowed to remain where they are, untouched by anything....then in mid February, they come out, are cut back, put into fresh potting soil, put into a sunny window, watered well... and watch.....they'll come back better than ever. If you follow this....don't be tempted to spritz them with water---what would that do ...we dont want them to grow...we don't want them to have light put on them...they don't need either. They need to be left alone....until we want them to grow again....See More? about Over-wintering Geraniums in basement
Comments (5)Shirl and Flowergazer....it is perfectly alright to let your geraniums enjoy all the sunshine they can get....as long as they don't get hit with frost. So you might, if they are still in their pots, bring them into the garage at night, back out into the sunshine during the day.....and repeat this as often as you decide they can be and not be touched by frost. OK, out of the pot...no need to remove the soil around the roots...but you can if you wish...knock it off with your fingers....don't wash the roots...that just delays drying. And dry is what you want....very dry. Put them away in the garage or shed for a day or so to let them dry out a bit. You don't want to store a plant in a damp condition. Take them to that cool place....35 to 50 F...and either hang them up, upside down (because its easier to hang that way) or put into paper bags...keep them opened to let moisture escape...and let them be all alone, dry, dark and cool. OR, leave them in their pots...on their side..and let them remain on a shelf. No water should be sprinkled on them...what for? That could initiate some form of growth...we don't want that. So keep the plants dry....very dry. You might put something on the floor to catch the debris that will surely fall from the drying plant. In mid February....but can be delayed as late as March......bring them out to a well newspapered table where you will inspect their roots for any damage, you will cut them back after removing all old leaves and flowers, then you can wash the roots free of any and all old soil. Use warmish water. Cut back about half...third....you decide. A clean pot...6"...8"...10"...depending on the size of the plant...put shards in the bottom to keep the soil away from the drainage holes. Fresh potting soil, make a hole in the center, put your plant in, firm it up. Water to drainage. Take to the sunniest window you have...east,west or south. Don't water again until new leaves begin to form...might take 2+ weeks. When you water, do so always to drainage and dump the excess...never leave water in the saucer below. Begin fertilizing as the amount of leaves dictate...1/4 rate...1/2 rate...20/20/20. As the plant matures you can then increase fertilizer and give it 15/30/15. Turn your plant 1/4 turn every day to ensure all parts of the plant receives equal amount of sun. May produce flower buds in 5...6...7 weeks...but don't concern yourself if it comes to May...flower buds will come. That's it.....that's how after 8 years I still have 7 plants alive and kicking....See MoreYour most successful Hosta-Related Winter Project?
Comments (3)I do have a few. 1. Need to update my hosta collection list with location, size and originator information. 2. Order more labels (including enough to replace some of the ones that are falling apart in the garden. 3. Label and file pics taken over the summer of 09. I keep my wish list in a MS Exel spreadsheet - a handy way to view and prioritize. There are about 114 plants on the list currently. Because I can't afford to purchase them all, I have added a ranking 1-4 to priorize the purchase timeline - 1 = must have or first to purchase in spring. I find I'm always changing my mind about which to purchase first. When I shop in the spring - I print out the list and take it with me....See Moremoliep
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