It’s an open loft so there will be light regardless. The little window faces west, no view out that window except the roof. I think I’ll just ignore it to start. To be honest I’m not sure the room will get slept in much. The two beds are antiques inherited from my husband’s grandmother. They are an odd size at 30” wide by 78” long. So only really comfortable for kids. However, I love them and have always wanted a spot to use them. My kids are grown and we are years away from grandchildren I think. It is a nice spot for a nap or to read, I sit up there with my iPad and the little dogs love the little beds lol. Once my daughter settles down and has her own place they are promised to her. In the meantime I’m going to enjoy them.

kate, again, hire a tile expert (not a contractor who also does 'tile'). You need a lot of waterproofing expertise around that window. it's an old house. problems occur w/old homes when you start to peel back the layers. Get an expert, even if it means more money. They tiled around that tub in the 20's w/no problem, so tiling around it again shouldn't be an issue. not sure why mercury made that comment. Back in the day they didn't use cement board, they used lath/mud mortar for waterproofing. Old school tile guys still use that method. They know how to tile around cast iron tubs. Higher window placement with a ledge for plants! as for tiling the apron, normally the tiler firs out the exterior, puts on cement board, and tiles on that. if you decide to do this, I would consider doing a solid tub deck surround (like in the first pic). tile/grout is not waterproof, even w/sealing. do doing all of these small tiles around the tub edge means more chance that water may get through. Have a solid piece around the top is neater and easier to keep clean. you don't have to do marble, you can do a solid white quartz. love the black accents. Or you can do something like a wainscot trim. depending on the shape of your bathtub, it may be best to get a new one.

Hi there, not a pro but i handle special order blinds for window treatments where i work. A 2” blind will be heavy looking on those windows when you need an outside mount, although when these are ordered for outside window frame placement, there should have been an option for outside returns for your valences. That would cover your headrail and ‘wrap’ around and ‘return’ back to the wall at a depth of your choosing. If you might consider another type of window covering, a roller shade or roman shade with a ‘flat’ fold might not be to ‘thick’ looking when completely open. If you still prefer to tilt a shade open and raise, there are 1” thick and i believe 1 1/2” faux wood slats available for order that would be a softer look.

Thanks everyone, so, it is a condo, so exterior windows aren't an option (I don't think our upstairs neighbors would enjoy having a skylight into our bathroom in their living room). using the bathroom during a dinner party I was thinking using the toilet, not a shower the red is just the wall that will have the door leading into the enclosed bathroom the wet room is a toilet and shower but that is what we're taking OUT here are the current dimensions with the vanity in the open and the bath/toilet wetroom and vanity in the loft with a pony wall to the left if your facing the mirror Here is the proposed design that walls off the bathroom into one larger unit. So while I appreciate the design advice, and I admit it's a little strange, I just need to know what I need to price out the correct window to make my decision. Does it need to open? Do we need glass that better deals with heat transfer? If we DO do the window should we stretch the window to the door for a more picture window look? thank you!