Do I need a winterizing kit or just Winter Ball for inground Pool Clos
pectin232
8 years ago
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pectin232
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Any ideas on where I could 'over winter' these ?
Comments (31)HAHAHA Loving it Burg farm. Maybe someday I will get that lucky. I will go outside and bask in the glow of burg heaven. hehehe. As far as GH go, Look on craigslist. I found one this summer (whish I had room for it) it was from a nursery closing down SAD! But they were selling the huge dome ones with the heaters and fans and tables for 900. If you wanted just the frame and plastic it was 300. I tellya I wanted that sucker so bad lol . I could just sit and imagine all the fun I have with one! So I whine about it at strategic times! Lol so now my old man says hell build one for me. But then I open my mouth and insert foot and say I just want the martial IÂll buid it myself I donÂt want it to fall down on my plants! Duh! Anyhow now IÂm trying to talk him back into it. I was swatted with the stupid stick! Good luck with all those brugs I could winter some to mwwhhaaaa! Edna I'm turning green with envy Cassie...See Moreneed winterizing help a.s.a.p.
Comments (34)Leon, you are right that I am making an envelope out of it just one layer thick. I think it is important to have a wide contact area on the ground, to get as much heat out of the ground. Remember that a couple feet down there is a 55-degree heat radiator which is downright toasty when its 0F in the air! So I would not make it too narrow. I don't tie down my branches at all, I just prune them. Fignut, I must have used around 120' for my two rows: 30' of row length, two sides, and double height. To figure out how much to use on a tree just go run a string around it at the widest spot and measure the length. I built the covers in-place: I just wrapped the stuff around the trees. If anyone is going to try this, here are a couple more tips. I found the best attachment technique to build the envelope is to staple every couple of inches. The staple seam I use is an "outsie", with the two sheets put back to back and stapled an inch or so from the edges. I originally used somewhat more widely spaced staples but it ripped apart there so I went to 2" spacing. You need to have the cover low enough that it touches the ground on all sides. If it is not touching everywhere the wind will come in and ruin your effort. It is also very important to have some way to firmly attach the bottoms and to "cinch" a rope around it. Before I figured out how to attach it well I had the covers blowing all over my yard. Running ropes over the top does some good but the cover can still slide all over if it is not attached to the ground. To attach to the ground I mainly use ground staples (6"-long tine staples). If you hammer them all the way in and use enough of them, say one per foot, that cover is not coming up. If you don't use enough ground staples the cover may come up and rip a hole where the staple was. One other thing I do is when I get them on there may be a few branches keeping the cover from getting on all the way. I then get under the cover and prune back the offending limbs. I do prune before putting the covers on but there always seems to be a couple limbs that are keeping the cover from coming down all the way. Scott...See Moreoverwintering Hydrangea macrophylla winter protection
Comments (104)My first Hydrangea is now in the ground for more than 25 years. At this point, I keep it for sentimental reasons only. It's gotten so THICK with canes that if I wrap it in my usual cage, I have to get everything so tight in there that I think I may actually be suffocating the plant. I've not had good luck overwintering it in recent years. This past winter I didn't even bother with it. If I were you, I'd consider taking a cutting or digging out a portion of your sentimental one and essentially start over. It would indeed be the same plant, so you could keep your sentiment. But I can understand sentiment. I should get rid of my first Hydrangea, but I'm not. For a long time I would cut back the old canes completely to the ground in the Fall. I'd only leave canes that had shot up from low points on the canes or from the crown. They would have grown all summer and would end up giving me great flowering the next year. I'd have very long stemmed flowers, too, that I had cut. The big problem with this technique is that you end up with weaker stems than you would otherwise and next summer they'd be weighted down to the ground with their flowers. I've found that, for my zone, I can usually prune as hard as I want up until about Fourth of July, just to be easy to remember, and not hurt the flowering potential for next year. After that, the buds start setting for next year and you start running into that problem. (But then I've cut some "nikkos" back to the crown in the Fall and on some I'd get great flowering and on some I'd get none. Do I really understand this? NO.) So, here is another method for you to consider to keep it smaller, at least in height. Another thing I've experimented with is to prune all the wimpy growth completely out and just end up with a few stout canes over time. This was interesting, but you end up with an artifical looking Hydrangea and the few stout canes start looking rather strange. But with this technique, more or less, you could develop a plant that wasn't so crowded. I don't know though. I wish I could help you more. I'd like an answer to the question you have, too! Hay...See MoreDIYer wakin up from winter What? We're not done yet?
Comments (17)Yes! I was really freaked out when I first noticed it! My heart just sunk. I had worked for weeks getting the bottom on this pool perfect, just perfect. I wanted those expensive ColorLogicLEDs to look perfect when reflecting across this glassy smooth pool bottom (OK, maybe it wasn't glassy smooth, but those lights were all I could think about when I was troweling it on!) This pool bottom was really really smooth. But unfortunately I couldn't drop the liner in immediately due to the irregular pool shape. The liner had to be custom measured (using point-to-point) and custom made. It was supposed to take 2 weeks to get here, but the manufacturer ended up taking nearly 2 months!! By then the weather had turned cold. We left standing water in the pool bottom and around the pool itself. The water was freezing and thawing (both on top of, and underneath the surface) which cracked the pool bottom. We never even realized it until it was too late. However just before we drop in the liner, we are going to COMPLETELY remove those "cracked" sections with a sledge hammer, and totally replace it with a new bottom in those places. Can anyone think of anything better to do? (short of demolishing the whole thing) What would you do if this was a liner replacement? My biggest concern with the moving sections was not just to repair them, but to determine what caused them in the first place. The "Good News" was that I'm fairly certain that it was the standing water/freeze/thaw conditions that created the problem. By knowing that, I can redirect the water, let the soil dry out, and then feel confident that repairing the section will work. I'm just a simple DIYer, so I may be missing something here. That's one of the reasons that I'm posting it. Can anyone think of a better way to handle it? Would it be helpful to add rebar in those sections? (I wouldn't think so, as the rest of the pool doesn't have it.) This pool bottom seems really fragile. The directions for the installation say to only walk on it with soft bottomed shoes, don't spray water from a hose directly on it, etc. When I work with the portland cement/sand mix, I feel like I'm building a giant sandcastle! It's not at all strong like cement or even mortar. My personal feeling is that the sooner the liner is on it the better. My mistake seems to be letting Old Man Winter get here in between finishing the bottom, and dropping in that liner! Please keep the suggestions comin'!! -Renee...See Morepectin232
8 years agow0lley32
8 years agow0lley32
8 years agopectin232
8 years agopectin232
8 years agow0lley32
8 years agoShawn Benson
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