About two months age we had three new valves added to a controller with three older ones. Two of the older ones were rarely used, and the third had not been connected to any water prior to this update. They are all drips with the usual drip stuff.

We were out of town for almost two weeks, returning late last Sunday to find several plants dead or dying. Fortunately they have recovered somewhat, so I expect it was only off for a day or two. It had been 109 degrees and very windy a few days before our return. There may have been a power failure, because our clocks were blinking at 2:30. The timers and details on the controllers were correct but valves 4,5, and 6 are no longer available to set up or run manually. In addition, one of the drip lines had sprung a strong leak.

The gentleman who installed the new valves on the old (2012) controller says the box shorted because we left it open and it rained. He mentioned there was mud around it.He reminded me that he'd told me the box was improperly installed for outdoor use, and he was replacing it with a newer model designed for outdoors. This sounded okay at first, but then I realized that it HAD rained, but less than an inch, and several days after the box stopped working.

I had replaced this

Hunter Front Panel for PRO-C and PCC Timers 526200 Faceplate

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QLQE64?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

myself three years ago, because it was somewhat corroded and seemed to have mud in it, but I suspected the mud was really related to termite damage. Anyway, on trying to make sens of this, I found this

"Circuit breaker/fuse - Check the condition of the circuit breaker or fuse, if it has
been blown the most likely reason is a field wiring short. An Electromechanical
controller will stop on the station that caused the problem. Reset the controller to
its rest position and replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. Manually
advance the controller to station #1 and allow it to run for one minute. If station #1
operates correctly then advance to station #2 and repeat this procedure until the
fuse blows. This will determine the problem station. Once the defective station
has been located, disconnect the wire that operates that valve. Continue the
above procedure to test the rest of the stations as there could be more than one
problem. Once this has been completed the controller will operate all of the
stations that are still connected. The faulty field wiring will have to be repaired
before they can be reconnected to the controller. Refer to the VOM section for
field wire testing."

...but don't really know what it means. Any thoughts?

I don't mind having a new controller box designed for outdoors ( he said about $350.00; is that out of line?), but I don't want it to short out again.