OK. Here is some more detailed info. All my tomatoes have bacterial spot. The areas where they were planted had compost dug into the soil prior to planting and were mulched with straw. When I first noticed tiny areas of spot on the lower leaves I pruned all the suckers within a foot of the ground and doused with neem oil. Despite this every few days it pops back up. My zucchini, some of my dahlias, and a few others have powdery mildew. Despite pruning and neem it keeps coming back. My hydrangeas (newly planted this spring) had been battling leaf spot most of the spring and were finally starting to look good and now one of them looks like it might have anthracnose. Did the same routine with them prune and neem early on. I actually think I may have used something non-organic from Bayer as well. My daylilies (only the ones in the backyard) got some kind of rust. And my most prized peonies (which I was told are over 30 years old) which bloomed beautifully and had no issues at all, in the past few days started developing black spots (about size of a nickel) on some of the leaves. I am just confused because I thought I did things right with compost and mulch in the veggie gardens. And pruning and neem on everything. Any help would be great. P.S. I do my best to not overhead water.

Carolyn: what is cmv? I've heard you mention it but not sure what it is. Do you think leaves look like CMV? **** Tammy, CMV is Cucumber Mosaic Virus and as I said above the symptoms are very similar to TMV and CMV infects tomatoes and has many more host plants. No, your plants don't have CMV either. I've linked below to a good diagnosis site for tomatoes and you might want to take a look. Two important points. First, pictures are static while disease is progressive so not always can one use pictures to make a definitive diagnosis, but I'd say most of the time you can. Second, all such sites list almost all possible pathogens and while the common Foliage pathogens are found everywhere the systemic diseases such as TMV, CMV, Fusariun, Verticillium, etc., are not always found in all areas of the country. So you have to know what's even possible in your own area before considering a pathogen as a possibility. Carolyn Here is a link that might be useful: Tx A and M tomato diagnosis

Sam: Wow! Great insight. Thank you. I admire Jim for his honesty & photography skills, and admire you for your insights & smarts. You are right that fungi are everywhere, and I agree with "The purpose of fungus is to decay plant material .. A healthy plant should be able to keep the fungus out of the cells of the leaves." We can't get away from fungi, it's everywhere. My kid soaked green-mung-beans in distilled water, put that in a plastic bowl, cover with lid, and put in a dark-pantry. After 24 hours she drained off the water, then put the wet beansprout back (covered). We forgot for a few days, so the sprout grew whitish molds inside the bowl. She planted it anyway, and those moldy sprouts grew healthier & bigger plants than the no-mold-sprouts. I make pickled cabbage often. I have to make the water salty, plus use a plastic-zip-loc (filled with water) to push the cabbage UNDER the salty-water (plus a cap so there's no air inside) ... otherwise they grow greenish mold on top. Other people put a big rock to push the cabbage under, then cover the top. If air gets in, then the veggies rot, and grow bad mold. A few conditions to grow fungi such as mold, blackspots, and mildew: organic matter, water, shade, right pH, and air. From the soil research, it's known that fungi decrease at pH above 8 (while bacteria increases). But BOTH are suppressed at pH below 4.5 http://aem.asm.org/content/75/6/1589 What makes leaves healthy so fungi can't grow? We need to supply roses with enough calcium and potassium, both strengthen cell tissue and make leaves thicker. Both JessJennings and I witnessed blackspots STOPPED, plus new 100% clean growth when we use sulfate of potash and gypsum together. Nitrogen should also be supplied while roses are blooming to provide energy for new leaves. Keeping the surface of soil dry and alkaline helps, so fungi can't germinate on the wet ground, and be splashed up to leaves. Dr. Henry Kuska was the one who shed light to my sufate-of-potash solution. Henry suggested that potassium is depleted AFTER blooming, that's why roses break out black spots right after a heavy blooming. I agree, when roses are stingy with zero blooms ... they are healthier just like my Thai Basil with very little blooms (less potassium used-up for flowers.). For the 2 years that I topped alkaline horse manure (has lime, with pH 8), on top of lots of alfalfa-meal (pH 5.8, NPK 2-1-2) ... my roses were clean since the pH on top was alkaline, plus a constant slow-released of nutrients. Picture of Francis Blaise rose below, taken late Oct. 2012, when the tomato-branches wilted from frost. When roses are hungry, be it lack of water or nutrients, they break out in fungal diseases. And when roses have too much, be it poor-drainage & too wet, or excess of nutrients (such as phosphorus that zap out anti-fungal agent zinc) ... they also break out in blackspots. Below is my neighbor's 100% clean hybrid tea (grafted on Dr. Huey), picture taken on a hot summer day with humidity over 80%. She mulched with big-size pea-gravel, and fertilize with MG-soluble (plenty of potassium & nitrogen, and the high phosphorus got zap out by the pea-gravel's high pH).

Check for scale or aphids. The sticky substance sounds like honeydew, either on the Mango itself or dripping from a nearby plant.