Haha, yeah tape off the door knobs? Take those off for professional results. If you want to brush your doors, you should roll them anyway and then back brush them. The rolling gives you a method to get the paint on the door quicker. You could also just roll them and leave them be as well. That depends on the look that you prefer. It also may depend on the paint...some paints don't dry down nice enough to be rolled and left.

Only thing I can think of is I am either pressing to hard on the brush and/or I am trying to spread the paint too thin Probably both. Or painting away from instead of into your wet area, or using a brush that is too narrow. Or re-working paint that has started to dry slightly. I dip just the tip (maybe 1/3 of the bristles), slap the inside of the can to knock off the excess, and make several crosswise passes on what I'm painting, next to the wet area. This deposits most of the paint onto the object. Then I paint back towards the wet area, longwise of the trim, spreading the paint stripes out into a smooth coat. Finish by brushing long strokes across the newly painted area into the next oldest paint. Repeat across the trim. If you are using a brush that is almost as wide as the trim (3/4 the width is good) you can put a bit of pressure on it, The bristles will fan out and carry the paint right to the edge of the trim. Takes a bit of practice but it really saves time.

I have a similar situation as OP we used Nordic Seal followed by MegaOne finish. We definitely were misinformed about the Nordic Seal applicaiton and did not put on enough sealant the first time around. This left us with some nasty patchy spots here and there. Fortunately the majority of the floor turned out really nice, but we are not very excited aboiut the pictured spots which unfortunately ended up right in the middle of the hallway and super noticable. Our sealant is the white tinted seal. We have tried to lightly scuff the finish and then reapply some white sealant to match the color but we are having a tough time blending it in. The white seems to need a lot to look the same tint and if you overlap any spots where the white is already fine then it keeps getting whiter and you can tell its layered up. Given the cost to rent the machines again, re-doing the entire floor is something we would like to avoid at all costs. I have read the above comments about sanding down to wood, but should we be concerned about potentitally damaging other parts of the floor that area already in good shape? Any advice would be much appreciated! thanks.

Yeah.....there ISN'T NEAR ENOUGH Paint on that ceiling! * First- Get a top-notch roller-cover. The above is fine. My fave is the 1/2" nap Wooster Jumbo-Koter Super-Fab. * Think of a rectangle up their, about 5-6' x 2-3'. * From far corner with a fully-loaded roller, roll AT AN ANGLE towards you, to the opposite corner. Don't press hard...let THE ROLLER apply the paint, not your pressure! Now push away from you, against long side of rect. Come back, at an angle, to the untouched corner. *On this 3rd angled stroke/roll, you'll be crossing your "Original" unloading path. There will be a slight "reload" effect here, as you cross this, because there'll naturally be a little more paint in that first line. * Lastly, push away from you, along the other uncoated "long side" of this rectangle. * You'll now have an "X", with the 2 long sides painted as well. * Now just fill in the X, rolling at slight angles, from one short side to the other. * As mentioned, you'll always be rolling across that initial angled roll. Again....you'll gain a SLIGHT REFILL when crossing this. This subtle action helps assure an even application in the rectangle. * Reload, & repeat these angled-rolling patterns! * You can obviously adjust the size of your application area. A 6' "side" may be too long for some. If you adjust too small, you'll be doing many more "reversals"...potentially making your neck/shoulders more sore. >>>> I'm serious here....take a couple of your fave NSAID's a 1/2-hr before you start! ;-) Faron