advice, tips? Removing Win10
10 years ago
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Advice & tips for preparing a rose bed in SE FL
Comments (3)Wow, sumognat! You have your own horse manure factory!!! When I dig my beds, I take out the depth of a shovel and replace it with everything you mentioned. Perhaps if I were younger and stronger, I'd go 2 feet deep, but I feel like a wacko as it is. Though the soil does become black in several months from all the added organics, my big question has always been "what happens when the roots extend beyond the amended area into the native sand?" So I guess I'm saying to go for the 2 feet if your back and pocketbook can hold up. I'm sure you can get good topsoil & compost in bulk. It's cheaper that way. I get my horse manure compost for free from a horse farm down the road. This year she said she "sanded" her stalls more which made the compost very heavy. I know she thought it was a good thing (and I don't know for sure that it wasn't), but I gasped at the word 'sand'. After all, I worked hard to get rid of the sand, and now I'm adding more! I don't know anything about horses or their bedding needs, but I do know the straw will pull nitrogen from the soil so you need to add extra nitrogen. I use a lot of Milorganite. The worms love it. I use Rose-Tone or Holly-Tone because that's what Lowe's carries, but I occasionally get a big bag of Purely Organic from a man in the local rose society. I use cottonseed meal, blood meal on occasion and lots of alfalfa in preparing the bed. Last year I used up a 50 lb bag of greensand in the beds I dug. It adds potassium (N-P-K: 0-1-6). Florida sand is typically very deficient in K. I found a company called Fertrell who had a local rep who sold their organic products out of his home so that's where I got it. I use Mycorrhizae - microorganisms that you add at planting that greatly enhance root growth. I sprinkle them directly on the roots before I put the plant in the hole. I also use "Vitamin B-1 Plant Starter" by Lilly Miller (from Lowe's.) This is very unscientific, but I forgot to use it once and several of my potted up roses withered and died. :(( At least it's cheap. I have limey sand so I use soil sulphur. I mostly grow own-root Old Garden Roses. I have a few on Fortuniana but 20 times as many on their own roots - Chinas, Teas and Noisettes. Hope this helps. Sherry...See MoreMango Tree Tipping Advice
Comments (2)Hi Glenn...not an expert but usually mango trees are pretty forgiving about being "tipped" or pruned... as long as its just slightly below a leaf node or branch usually it will form new growths in that area. As far as the last picture with the flower buds...its up to you? If you don't want it to form any fruits since the tree is very young you can tip it but if it were my tree I wouldn't remove the branch but prune a little to promote a few more new growths? But, that's just me...Good luck! Here's a picture of where the new growths should appear?...See MoreAny tips to reduce damage from upper cab removal?
Comments (4)You may have to choose between salvaging the cabinet or damaging the ceiling ... I would use a saw and cut away the bottom part of the cabinet to have an easier time of removing the top. Remove shelves and doors, then support the cabinet from the underside - but loosely so you can pry down. You don't want oit to fall crashing, but you need an inch or so of "slack". With a FLAT, pry bar, like the Stanley "wonderbar" tool, CAREFULLY tap and pry along one edge to get a bit of a gap, maybe half inch, then push the cabinet back up to expose the nail heads ... pull the nails. Repeat....See MoreNeed watering advice &tips for establishing large transplant new trees
Comments (3)There are so many variables - soil type, atmospheric humidity, temperature and some others - that it is very hard, probably impossible, to come up with rules for watering. IMHO, 2 gallons or so per week delivered by soaker hose is not likely to be nearly enough unless there has been a great deal of rain. The browning needles are likely an indication of too little water. It isn't tremendously accurate, but reaching down to the root ball with your fingers and testing for dryness is better than relying on some sort of formula. If the root ball feels dry to the touch, water it with a hose. 45 minutes as the tree guy said seems pretty reasonable and I doubt very much if he was talking about 45 minutes worth of soaker hose. Another thing that is very helpful for summer planted trees is to spray them with a fine mist such as that produced by a Fog-It type nozzle. This lowers the temperature, increases humidity and slows transpiration of moisture even if none is directly absorbed. This can be done several times a day. For large trees at this time of year and assuming decent soil drainage, under watering is usually a greater danger than over watering....See More- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
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- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years agoUser thanked Richard (Vero Beach, Florida)
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