Ok, so here is the deal after talking to the people at stainless-sink.com.........several times.....they were pleasant to talk to but they wanted pictures to confirm my claim that the sink was in fact about 19 gauge (between .98-1.03mm) and NOT 15 (1.8mm)which is a difference of almost half as thick. . I sent the sink back, and was given a full refund. However, My call tag that they issued for the return was more than 10 pounds underweight, I was told that they should take it and if there was a difference ups would bill them for it, but my local ups store would not take it. Luckily my ups driver did take it, but this could have been a huge hassle since they did not seem willing to issue a new tag with the correct weight. long story short, I got my refund. My final impression of Stainless-sink.com and the "15" gauge sinks is that I don't think that they are trying to scam anyone. I think no one ever took the time to break out their micrometer and verify the thickness of the material. I ended up buying a sink from another ebay retailer who just happens to be close to my home. They have the exact same sink, marketed as 15 gauge, but after going there to measure it found it to be the same 19-20gauge thickness. The sink that I ended up purchasing a different sink that is 16 gauge but was also advertised as 15 gauge. NONE of these "15" gauge sinks are truly that thick. The old saying "you get what you pay for" seems to hold true here. I ended up paying 375 for a (ebay #390325693007)........however I opened several boxes of various models before I chose this one, and they were almost all the thinner material (19-20 gauge)........ I still don't think that they are a bad deal for the price, they just are not nearly as thick, or nearly as great of a deal as they are advertised to be. as for the rusting issue-I'm still finishing my kitchen but cannot comment, I did decide to go with a 1" radius sink instead of a zero radius because I figured it would be too difficult to clean and also would make it easier for water to sit in the corner and if there was a rusting problem, that is probably where it would be. I bought from "contempo living" in el monte, Ca has been in business now for about 10 years and said they haven't had any issues with that............. Time shall tell.

wow this made my day ... After finding are home flooded with sewer water and then getting every thing ripped out and redone ,,, after we started to put things back in we found a wet spot on the new carpet in the office .... so had the guys remove the new drywall from the floor up to about 3 feet thinking they hit a pipe with a nail , or a screw ... nope was the the main copper pipe drain for upstairs bathroom ,, cut out higher and found the leak in a elbow joint ,, in a very hard place to fix ,,,, so went out and got the ep-200 epoxy putty ,,, cleaned up the joint really good then applied the epoxy .... been 2 days and still holding ... so this gives me hope ... until i can get it fixed ..

I also dislike apron sinks and, while I love the look of vintage, it wasn't going to work for my everyday needs. I installed the Bakersfield overmount in a very small condo kitchen and it was great. I could wash my 13 lb Schnauzer in it, but it still didn't take up too much space. Yes, washing dogs in my kitchen sink might be crude to some but haven't you ever found something in tupperware in the back of your fridge..... I digress. This time around I have more room and was looking at the Cape Dory. I found Ceco sinks locally and ended up with one of these instead. It's the same dimensions as the Cape Dory without predrilled holes (for undermount). Also the drain is in the center, but towards the back. Finally Ceco (UM 74, I think) started making sinks in the 1920's so I figure at least the company is in the right ballpark. Oh, and my 6 1/2 lb Yorkie could have a pool party in there! Check them out...they have a bunch of different sizes and styles. Here is a link that might be useful: Ceco Sinks

Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc