Opinions of Epoxy for copper pipes?
vgkg Z-7 Va
16 years ago
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bob_cville
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agobjj2000
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Water leak at pipe /connector in the water meter box on my side
Comments (5)Old galvanized pipes have a finite lifespan. If you repair this leak, you have a good chance of it developing another leak in another location. The only good solution is a complete pipe replacement. The major expense of a pipe replacement will involve the digging of the trench from the meter to the house. This is an area where a DIYer can save some money. Have the utilities companies come out and mark the location of the pipe and any other utilities going to the home. Then you can choose a route parallel to the current pipe but just far enough away from it that you aren't disturbing it. You can rent a trencher (Maybe $200) and hand dig the larger access points at the meter and house. Then you can call a plumber to lay the pipe and make the connections. If you are not physically capable of doing this, then do you have any family or friends that would be? Church group? Scout troop? There are usually community resources that can help you to figure out what you can do here. The worst thing you can do is to ignore the leak....See MorePin hole leaks in copper pipes
Comments (30)lazypup's in the ballpark but I think his long discourse on cavitation is more tailored to an extreme version you'd see in a hot water system. Cavitation occurs at a microscopic level. It happens at points in the pump volute and on the impeller where low pressure occurs (the trailing edge of the impeller is the best example). If the suction head required by the pump to operate is greater than what's available due to suction line throttling or friction losses, the low pressure becomes low enough to cause water to vaporize. It's technically "steam" but not like you think b/c it can happen even at room temperature. This can be exacerbated by pumping a hot fluid b/c it has a higher vapor pressure (i.e. it 'boils' easier). Your pump can be sitting there pumping water pretty much normally and still be cavitating. Lazypup's description makes it sound like you suddenly get a pump full of steam, but that's not the case. The bubbles that are formed by cavitation immediately collapse back on themselves and that's what causes the pump's parts to erode, since the bubbles occur at surfaces in the pump. It sounds like you're pumping marbles. Lazypup's description sounds more like a pump that's air binding. For hot water, it can be an extreme version of cavitation. But what he describes sounds more to me like a situation where the pump is depending on the pumped fluid for some of its lubrication/cooling. If the fluid isn't there, then the pump can quickly overheat....See MoreBest method for joining flex pipe to steel pipe
Comments (2)The black pipe is almost certainly polyethylene-- an excellent choice for that purpose, in my opinion. An adapter of the style below is best. I suggest avoiding galvanized steel adapters as they will rust and will be consumed by electrolysis if directly connected to copper or brass-- but they are stronger than any non-metallic adapters. I use two clamps at each adapter. Be sure you have the correct style and size for your pipe. The adapter should be difficult to insert and to remove-- tight fit. If not, it is the wrong one. Do not select from the irrigation fittings bin unless there is no other choice. Here is a link that might be useful: Male barb adapter...See MoreDealing with Exposed Copper Pipes
Comments (11)Granted the cover trim....does not look generic so it may be specific based on the layout and the reasoning the plumbing is what it is. Only you can tell so much I suppose, just short of figuring out the runs from underneath, etc, etc.... If you're handy, then just start making some access holes, go into basement/crawlspace and figure out the plumbing sitution and if it allows, then just redo your setup , etc. Personally, I would be relocating electrical, shutoffs, all plumbing, etc so it's not exposed and it's ~behind~ the laundry machine. Everyone has a different opinion on shut off valves.... My shut off valve box ends about 5 inches below the top of the machine, so if I reach in, I can still turn it off in a dire emergency...I've never needed to, nor have I had hoses explode when away from the house...See Morevgkg Z-7 Va
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