Thanks to Heirloom Roses which suggested this site, I found the below:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html

Table 2. Suggested Values for Nutrient Levels in Rose Tissue. Nutrient (unit) Low to High in %. Phosphorus is needed in very small amount 0.2 to 0.3

Nitrogen 3 to 5 Phosphorus 0.2 to 0.3 Potassium 2 to 3

Calcium 1 to 1.5 Magnesium 0.25 to 0.35

In ppm (parts per million): Zinc 15 to 50 Manganese 30 to 250 Iron 50 to 150 Copper 5 to 15 Boron 30 to 60

*** Let's compare acidic cracked corn (pH below 4) to the above:

NPK of corn meal is 1.6 / 0.65 / 0.4 .... that's better than horse manure NPK of 0.44 / 0.17 / 0.35. High in nitrogen, plus 39% magnesium, 23% iron, 29% phosphorus, 10% potassium, 30% manganese, 37% selenium, 12% copper, and 15% zinc. The last 5 elements are anti-fungal.

**** Let's compare alkaline red-lava-rock (pH 8.2) to the above:

Red Lava rock has many nutrients lacking in alkaline clay, such as boron, iron, zinc, copper, sulfate, plus high in potassium. See the below:

Nitrate Nitrogen.................................4.0 p.p.m.
Phosphorus........................................6.0 p.p.m.
Potassium.........................................59.0 p.p.m.
Zinc.........................................................6 p.p.m.
Iron..................................................10.0+ p.p.m.
Copper...............................................5.5+ p.p.m.
Magnesium.......................................2.0+ p.p.m.
Boron.................................................10.0 p.p.m.
Sulfate.................................................7.0 p.p.m.
Organic Material...........................................5%
PH.........................................................8.2 Units
Calcium..................................1.3 Meq/100 gm*
Manganese...........................0.6 Meq/100 gm*
Sodium...................................0.1 Meq/100 gm*
Cation Exchange Capacity..3.2 Meq/100 gm*

Here is a link that might be useful: Nutrients composition of lava rock

The anti-fungal agents are listed from strongest: zinc, copper, calcium, magnesium, and boron. Nutritional analysis for 2 Tbs. of brewer's yeast: it has only 3% salt, 6% iron ... but the B-complex vitamins are impressive: 80% Thiamine, 90% Riboflavin, 50% Niacin, 40% vitamin B6, 15% Folate, 6% Pantothenic acid, and 5% B12, 18% potassium, 50% copper (strong anti-fungal agent), 10% zinc (strongest anti-fungal agent). Will test Brewer's yeast again. Last year it helped stingy Eglantyne to be healthy & bloomed more.

For molasses to deepen bloom colors, I re-post the info. which I posted in 2013. Molasses is quite effective in deepening the colors of bloom. In 1908 the Rhode Island Rose Society deepened the pink blooms by a 7% to 10% sugar solution. This is Evelyn in hot August, after weeks of watering with 1 teaspoon molasses (plus 1 teaspoon vinegar to lower my pH 8 tap water) per 2 gallons of water:

NPK of molasses is 3-1-5, but that varies with the brand, see link below.

Best is Wholesome Organic Molasses, highest at 20% potassium (730 mg), 15% iron, 15% calcium, 0 sodium, and 10% B6. It's thicker than Plantation Molasses 17%(600 mg) of potassium, 20% calcium, and 10 mg of sodium.

Tree of Life brand has 15 mg of sodium, 500 potassium, 20% iron .... That's the one that gave brownish spots on Gina's Rose. Could be from the high iron .. not impressed with the result.

The best brand of molasses to fertilize roses would be Wholesome Organic Molasses, zero salt, and highest in potassium (730 mg), plus vitamin B6. It's sold for $6 per 16 fl. oz, Plantation brand is sold for $5. Health food aisle in local grocery store has both.

Molasses is excellent to lower the pH of alkaline tap water. "pH levels of: Grandma’s 5.4 Folding Farms 5.4 Wholesome Organic 5.5 Brer Rabbit 5.6 Plantation Blackstrap 5.6"

Here is a link that might be useful: What's really in the molasses?

Before applying any organics, it's useful to check pictures of plant-nutrients deficiencies, the below link from Australia on plant-nutrients is awesome, lots of good pics., even with a picture of salt-damage.

http://keys.lucidcentral.org/keys/sweetpotato/key/Sweetpotato%20Diagnotes/Media/Html/TheProblems/nutrient%20disorders.htm

My Bolero with red lava rock & dolomitic lime is DISAPPOINTING this year, pale, thanks to high pH. My Bolero fertilized in 2013 with cracked corn mixed with alkaline clay was much better, see below. The glossy foliage is from the fatty acids in cracked corn. Corn is acidic at pH below 4, so I need to mix that with my alkaline clay at pH near 8, to prevent animals from eating. NPK of corn meal is 1.6 / 0.65 / 0.4 .... that's better than horse manure NPK of 0.44 / 0.17 / 0.35. Corn is high in nitrogen, 23% iron, 29% phosphorus, 30% manganese, 10% potassium, 39% magnesium, 37% selenium, 12% copper, and 15% zinc. The last 5 elements starting with potassium are anti-fungal.

Brewer's yeast, pH around 4, high in copper (50%) and potassium, would ensure healthy leaves & more buds. From below link, copper deficiency is: "young leaves may show various deformities including puckering, missing sections of blade and irregular holes.

- the upper surface of young unexpanded leaves may have a silvery appearance.

Occurs in calcareous (alkaline) soils, acidic sandy soils, organic (peaty) soils

http://keys.lucidcentral.org/keys/sweetpotato/key/Sweetpotato%20Diagnotes/Media/Html/TheProblems/MineralDeficiencies/CopperDeficiency/Copper%20def%20home.htm

Found a link for nutritional analysis of brewer's yeast: balanced ratio of phosphorus, calcium, and iron. Leaves on Evelyn became shiny, will post pic. later.

http://www.drugs.com/npp/brewer-s-yeast.html

http://www.sparkpeople.com/calories-in.asp?food=brewers+yeast

Below is from Twin Lab's Brewer's yeast nutritional analysis:

Vitamin A 0.0 %Vitamin B-12 2.1 %Vitamin B-6 1.9 %Vitamin C 0.0 %Vitamin D 0.0 %Vitamin E 0.0 %Calcium 0.4 %Copper 1.6 %Folate 3.8 %Iron 0.5 %Magnesium 0.5 %Manganese 0.4 %Niacin 1.7 %Pantothenic Acid 0.3 %Phosphorus 1.4 %Riboflavin 2.6 %Selenium 0.0 %Thiamin 5.8 %Zinc 0.5 %

Found a government abstract link on how brewer's yeast break down phytate phosphorus and make it more available. Farmers add phosphorus to livestock feed.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20163604

Brewer's yeast efficiently degrades phytate phosphorus in a corn-soybean meal diet during soaking treatment. "the soaking treatment with a raw brewer's yeast is an alternative method for improving phytate-phosphorus bioavailability in corn-soybean meal diets for pigs."

Here's from livestrong.com " One ounce of brewer's yeast typically contains 80 calories, with 11 g protein, 10.9 g carbohydrate, 1.1 g dietary fiber, 0.3 g fat, 537 mg potassium, 497 mg phosphorus, 60 mg calcium, 34 mg sodium, 10.7 mg niacin, 4.9 mg iron, 4.4 mg thiamine, 1.2 mg riboflavin and 110 mcg chromium."

http://www.livestrong.com/article/521280-benefits-and-side-effects-of-brewers-yeast/

From eHow on using Brewer's yeast to induce blooms on roses: "A mixture of brewer's yeast and water applied to rosebush roots encourages bud formation. To force buds to grow, mix 3 tbsp. yeast with 10 liters of water. To maintain blooms throughout the season, use 2-4 tbsp. yeast in 2 gallons of water and apply as soon as the bushes begin to bloom.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_8581544_positive-uses-yeast-garden.html

I tested Brewer's yeast last year on Austin roses Eglantyne and Jude the Obscure, yes, more buds on them, plus healthy leaves (these 2 like it acidic). This year I tested Brewer's yeast (pH 4) along with molasses (acidic) to lower the pH of my alkaline tap water (pH 8.6). The bud-formation is impressive. eHow's ratio is too high. I used 1/2 tablespoon of molasses and 1 tablespoon of NOW brewer's yeast per 2-gallon of water, and some leaves got wilted. For the 2nd application, I used 3-gallons of water instead, and it's much better. I used Wholesome Organics molasses, with the highest % of potassium, it's very thick, so I diluted in water in advance.

Here are the result of 2 application of Brewer's yeast plus molasses in 2 weeks, plus 14 hours of heavy rain: I counted 10 buds on Lavender rose (after 1 month purchase), and 9 buds on Tchaikosky (after 2 months of purchase .. Tchaikosky already gave 4 blooms with molasses on its 1st month. Below are new buds on Tchaikosky, it's doing cluster-blooming this time, 2 buds per branch. Bush is 100% healthy:

Here are cluster-blooming buds on Lavender rose, grafted-on-Dr.Huey, bought for $6.59 from Meijers about a month ago. Some blackspots which were there before my experiments:

More cluster-blooming, 3 buds per branch on lavender rose, a hybrid tea which gives large blooms more than 4 inch. in diameter.

Here's pic. from last year, July 2, 2014. Eglantyne is known as a stingy Austin rose, esp. on own-root. This is a re-post from last July 2014:

My Eglantyne died to the crown due to this past harsh winter, so the new growth is less than 6" tall. After 2 applications of Brewer's yeast, it sprouted 5 tiny buds ... not bad for a tiny plant, see picture below:

July 2, 2014 at 1:21PM

I re-post the ratio of nutrients found in rose-tissue:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html

Table 2. Suggested Values for Nutrient Levels in Rose Tissue. Nutrient (unit) Low to High in %. Phosphorus is needed in very small amount 0.2 to 0.3%

Nitrogen 3 to 5 Phosphorus 0.2 to 0.3 Potassium 2 to 3

Calcium 1 to 1.5 Magnesium 0.25 to 0.35

In ppm (parts per million): Zinc 15 to 50 Manganese 30 to 250 Iron 50 to 150 Copper 5 to 15 Boron 30 to 60

*** From Straw: For low-ratios, it would be 3 Nitrogen, 2 Potassium, and 0.2 Phosphorus, plus 1 Calcium and 0.25 magnesium. For ppm it would be 15 zinc, 30 manganese, 50 iron, 5 copper, and 30 boron. Zinc is the strongest anti-fungal agent, so it makes sense that zinc is found at 15 ppm, versus only 5 for copper. Iron is needed most at 50 ppm.

For high-ratios of nutrients in rose tissue, it would be in %: 5 nitrogen, 3 potassium, 0.3 phosphorus, 1.5 calcium, and 0.35 magnesium. For ppm it would be 50 zinc, 250 manganese, 150 iron, 15 copper, and 60 boron.

No wonder brewer's yeast didn't work on some roses: copper is too high. Red-lava-rock (high in potassium, iron, and boron) worked very well: it kept my roses clean until my foolish experiment with NPK 4-10-7 with kelp meal.

EarthCo. that tested my soil, stated in their booklet that 2/3 of the soils that they tested are deficient in potassium (that includes my alkaline clay). Nitrogen is easy to give, it moves down fast with mobility of 10. Potassium is harder with a 3 mobility, that's why sulfate of potash works so well, it's a soluble. Red-lava-rocks for potassium only work when there's tons of rain.

Update on pea gravel: Saw how vigorous my neighbor's Sweet Drift roses with pea-gravel in the hole, so I copy-cat her ... dug up Golden Celebration (poor drainage), and fixed the drainage with pea-gravel. It sprout new leaves FAST, much faster than Sweet Promise ($10 of COMPOSTED organic chicken manure in the hole). I also topped Evelyn with pea gravel ... that worked even with 14+ hours of heavy rain yesterday. No more "rain holes" in the leaves, thanks to pea-gravel on top: slow-release of minerals to make up for the loss of calcium, potassium, and nitrogen during heavy rain. Below is the pea-gravel I used: many colors, thus a variety of minerals:

Excerpt from below link: http://remineralize.org/2012/01/topsoil-loss-and-remineralization/#sthash.TMNnOou7.dpuf

"Most types of rock will prove effective for topsoil restoration, but some are better than others. Limestone and dolomite, though relatively easy to obtain, do not contain an adequate variety of minerals. Basalt and granite are excellent and are readily available in many areas. A mixture of rock types is usually ideal for topsoil restoration, as this will ensure the widest variety of minerals and will minimize the possibility of particular excesses or deficiencies. For more information on obtaining and utilizing high quality rock dust, refer to the Remineralize the Earth website (www.remineralize.org). "

The rose in my garden which gives me weekly cut-flower, always in bloom is Evelyn, it has equal amount of Red-lava-rock (for potassium) and pea-gravel (for calcium & other minerals). Dolomitic lime didn't work well: too high pH (over 9), too much calcium released caused deficiencies in zinc and iron, plus faded blooms. Gypsum with 17% sulfur is too acidic when there's rain with that.

My experiment of alfalfa pellets (pH 5.8) plus some dolomitic lime DID NOT WORK after 14+ hours of heavy rain. Stephen Big Purple sit there doing nothing, even with blood meal. Blood proteins need soil bacteria to break down into ammonium. Alfalfa pellets need soil bacteria to break down, thus best mixed with some soil. I top dressed a white-pine one year with alfalfa meal, and it gunked up on top, DID NOT DECOMPOSE even after 6 months, the white-pine turned pale since the thick layer blocked off oxygen from top. Organics need to be mixed into soil, for bacteria to break down the organics, be it blood meal or alfalfa.

The ones that sprout new growth? SOLUBLE Azomite (rock-dust), plus SOLUBLE Brewer's Yeast (for B vitamins & vast array of nutrients) and Molasses (potassium, calcium, and iron). I'm leaning toward balanced soluble fertilizer. Those pea gravel releases powder immediately when rain water hit (saw that during heavy rain), whereas alfalfa pellets need bacteria to break down.

Re-post the info. I posted in June. Today Old Port is a BS-fest & doing nothing as of today, August 30. Last month I scraped off red-lava-rock, and replaced with horse manure plus high-phosphorus NPK 4-10-7 (blood meal, fish bone meal, sulfate of potash, and kelp meal) . I should had done what I did in spring: chicken manure NPK 5-3-2, plus red-lava-rock for potassium.

Lesson learned, I find that minerals (in rock dust, or Azomite, or red lava rock) is great to INCREASE the yield in crops. The problem with MG-potting soil is it's not rich in minerals like clay or rock dust. Here's an excerpt from below link:

http://remineralize.org/2007/11/soil-remineralization-and-the-climate/

" Remineralization also enhances and speeds up the process of composting, so if you are composting for your garden, consider putting on some rock dust. Remineralizing by adding rock dust to compost is a very practical way to apply it to soils.

For Forests The results of long term experiments released in 1986 showed that in a forest where pine seedlings were remineralized, after 24 years the wood volume was four times higher than in the untreated area.

Remineralization trials of a dying forest on Mt. Mitchell by Dr. Robert Bruck, Ph.D., showed that twelve weeks after application of rock dust, height of growth of red spruce was increased by 27% over non-treated controls, and height growth of Fraser fir was 19% greater than the untreated controls. (Forestry Research packet)

The Men of Trees organization in Australia is doing remineralization trials with many species of trees in Australia with phenomenal results, such as five times the growth of trees seedlings of one variety of eucalyptus, over the untreated controls. (See Forestry Research packet)

For Agriculture The best source of soil minerals is simple crushed gravel dust. In 1976 John Hamaker spread gravel crusher screenings on part of his ten acres in Michigan. The following year, in an area of sparse rainfalls and dry summers, with no irrigation, his corn produced 65 bushels per acre, compared to yields of under 25 from other local farms. Moreover, when independent analyses were done, Hamaker’s corn was found to contain 28% more protein, 47% more calcium, 57% more phosphorus, 60% more magnesium and 90% more potassium than the same type of corn grown with chemical fertilizers nearby. - See more at: http://remineralize.org/2007/11/soil-remineralization-and-the-climate/#sthash.3RNlqfTo.dpuf

Here's the result of my top-dressing Old Port with red-lava-rock, the free-sown snapdragons go beserk. Old Port got winter-killed to 4 inch. tall early April. Pic. taken June 8:

ALERT: BREWER'S YEAST is too acidic, and gave a few of my roses black spots. The tons of rain we got last week (leached out protective minerals), plus the humid weather. Brewer's yeast really burns when the defense-mechanisms are down. It worked well last year when it was with alkaline tap water on 2 Austin roses that like it acidic. My clay pH is near 8, and brewer's yeast pH is below 4.

Even when I take brewer's yeast for my hayfever, I have to balance 1 Tablespoon with 1 heaping large spoon of honey, since it's so sour. Conclusion: I don't recommend brewer yeast unless your soil is very alkaline, and your tap water is very alkaline. pH of brewer's yeast is very acidic at 4, and as the pH goes down, less calcium and potassium available, and more fungal infection.