Anyone grow Persian Shield?
GreenLarry
8 years ago
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tropicbreezent
8 years agoGreenLarry
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Persian shield from seed?
Comments (10)Hardy to zone 9 although it will die back to the ground when frosted, or easy to save as a house plant over winter if you donâÂÂt mind itâÂÂs nakedness. A potted plant takes up a lot more space and I usually only have one and save the rest as cuttings in water. Even though itâÂÂs plenty warm in your house, the change of sunlight combined with the dry indoor air almost always cause this (potted) plant to go semi-dormant (sleeping.) If you are going to bring one inside, I recommend removing almost all of the leaves first, because thatâÂÂs easier than picking them up off of the floor later, and they can get crumbly when dry. Leaving 3-5 leaves at each growing tip will be plenty. Let it get a bit more dry than when it was outside actively growing. When frosts are no longer a danger, youâÂÂll have a LARGE plant to put outside, and it will fill out with beautiful new purple leaves within a few weeks, especially if repotted when replaced outside. DonâÂÂt be shy about trimming the roots. I've been saving these plants over winter since the 90's. You can do it, either potted or water cuttings!...See MorePersian shield, for Toni
Comments (41)"Oh, 'Starting from Scratch,' book..thank you. Once some woman emailed, 'few yrs ago,' asking me to fax 79 pages to her. I told her I didn't own a fax machine..she then asked me to 'TYPE THEM OUT.' lol..Yes, ma'am, right away.." Hey, I'll take a copy of that! You're about finished right? Holy ___! Sweet potatoes, I read about that retardant spray after I had potatoes in the ground. Maybe they were local and it wasn't used or one of those dumb luck things that work when people don't know it's not supposed to. I just cut 2 potatoes in half and buried the pieces a few inches down. They grew vines all summer, and we dug up the potatoes when frost killed the foliage. Yum! About 25 potatoes last fall, and what will come from what's grown back this year is yet unknown. Not bad for a few minutes' work and the cost of only 2. Thanks for the kind words, but I don't put up pics of the failures. There are definitely some. I just do so many, I end up with plenty of successes. That's my fav thing to do with plants, chopping them into pieces and watching them grow back. The eyes are where the foliage sprouts out, the black holes. It takes a very small amount of the inside attached to the eye on the peel to start growing more potatoes. The spot we call veggie patch is for ugly/unruly plants like sweet potato, tomato, zucchini, cantaloupe. But all around with the flowers and Coleus I have peppers, Basil, sometimes a broccoli, lettuce, spinach, okra, onion, garlic, the other experiments I mentioned before. I want some purple eggplant plants next year, and purple cabbage. Tried swiss chard seeds but it was too dry where I put them. Veggie seeds are cheap, worth trying where there's a spot. When you want to pick a tomato that's as big as possible but still green, you notice way too much about how they ripen. Between green and red, they are white for a time. The immature seeds are too wet, gelatinous for frying *as well* when they go from white to green. In case anyone wants to copy/paste: Gramma's: Slice green tomatoes fairly thin, usually 5-6 slices per slightly-smaller-than-tennis-ball-size. Moisten slices in water, then coat with: mixed: 8 parts flour, 1 part sugar, some salt/pepper Fry in oil, flip when medium-going-on-dark-brown. Drain on paper towel & eat plain, on a sandwich, or dipped in something, like ranch, spicy ranch, or remolaude sauce! Where I'm at lately (this does 2 tomatoes): bowl 1: plain flour bowl 2: 1 egg, 1 Tbs water, 1 Tbs spicy or buffalo ranch, 1 Tbs regular ranch, dash worcestershire sauce, dash hot sauce, few taps of coriander, couple pinches dry chopped rosemary, pinch of garlic powder. I don't measure anything, but that should be pretty close. Put slices in bowl 1, then 2, back to 1, then fry, same as above. You can also add crushed corn flakes to bowl 1 if you have the time and like a crunchy breading. This is making me hungry!......See MorePersian Shield
Comments (10)Most of the damage to foliage stems from soils that retain too much water and not enough air, and this occurs because the soils are made from particles too fine - like peat, coir, compost, manures, sand, topsoil ...... This is a very easy concept to grasp - just think about how much air space there is in a pint of BBs vs a pint of play sand. While sand might drain well, it doesn't hold enough air, and it holds too much water, to be considered a smart choice for bringing along containerized plants. How much water a soil holds is very closely linked to particle size, so the increasing aeration and drainage in container media pivots on the size of the particles in our soils. Plants LOVE air in the root zone. Plants that don't get enough air and have poor gas exchange in the root zone suffer from impaired root function and the accompanying inability to move water efficiently - thus the spoiled foliage. When using these water-retentive soils, you have to choose between watering properly, so you're flushing dissolved solids (from tap water & fertilizer solutions) from the soil regularly) and risking root rot setting in because the soil remains wet too long, or watering in sips to prevent root rot, which practice supports the build-up of soil salts that inhibit the plant's ability to absorb water. Neither are good choices. OTOH, using a free-draining and well-aerated soil that allows you to water copiously every time you water, with no concern for root rot issues OR salt build-up, offers you the best chance for being able to bring along attractive plants. These types of soils also increase the critical margin for error - offering you much wider, problem free latitude in your watering/fertilizing habits. I'm going to suggest that you read this link, it's a good place to begin. When you're done with that, try the one I linked to below. I have found that the cornerstone of a grower's ability to consistently produce healthy plants lies in an understanding of how important soils are to the planting. Some growers learn by trial and error over a number of years ..... unnecessary because you can learn it in an hour if it's laid out in front of you; and some growers are just content with whatever results they are presently realizing because of how their priorities are established. Anyway ....... find the other link below. Good luck .... hopefully you'll have questions by the score! ;-) Al Here is a link that might be useful: More about soils...See MoreStrobilanthes dyerianus 'Persian Shield'
Comments (5)Cool storage in the winter kicks it into "bloom" mode, which sounds fun but is NOT. The plant barely puts on any new growth and stays wimpy and stunted while in bloom which will be most of the year. So, if you like the purple and the larger leaves it is best to store it somewhere sunny and bright over the winter. They seem to like rich soil with some strong sun. In full blazing hot sun they wilt but rebound when watered. If you don't want to water it all the time I would place it in the shade. Take cuttings in the heat of summer and store them as houseplants rather then squeeze big mama through the front door....See Moretropicbreezent
8 years agogaryfla_gw
8 years agoGreenLarry
8 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
8 years agooldmangroot
8 years agostanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
8 years agoGreenLarry
8 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
8 years agoAlan
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agorusty_blackhaw
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
8 years agoAlexCascadia
7 years agoAlexCascadia
7 years agoCalifornia Garden Guy
7 years agoAlexCascadia
7 years agoCalifornia Garden Guy
7 years ago
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