Time To Buy A US Index Fund?
11 years ago
last modified: 11 years ago
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- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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Comments (9)No, I don't do things the way everyone esle does. Everyone else buries their waterlines below the frost line. I run mine flush into the sod. This is easy to install, easy to modify, easy to fix. Most other people use PVC pipe. After looking at the environomental impact of PVC, I avoid it whenever possible. I use black poly pipe and by preference glass filled nylon joints. Most other nurseries keep bare earth. I keep mowed pasture. I use almost no herbicide, and zero pesticide, depending on the birds and predatory bugs to work for me. Most other nurseries put all of each kind of egg in one basket. E.g. a big one to the south of me has a quarter section of just shubert chokecherries. I try to have no more than a few hundred of anything together. This means that a bunch of mice who develop a taste for scots pine bark stop at the blue spruce boundary. As far as I know I'm the only guy in Alberta to raise trees entirely in containers. Means I can put a MUCH larger tree in a pot than the guys with field trees. (A 5 foot larch does quite well in a #2 pot.) I overwinter my pots above ground -- results are species dependent. Spruce do well if packed close together, willows are fine. White pine is unhappy. I'm moving to Pot in Pail. Rather than buy a socket pot -- with holes that line up with the liner pot, I salvage pails from the dump, clean them, and put holes in them that DONT line ukp with the liner pot. A #5 trade pot fits nicely inside. It takes me about 30 seconds each per pot to remove the lid, clean it, drill holes in it. So with farting around call it 30 pails an hour. Given that good #7 pots cost several dollars each this is good return on my time. (Right now the biggest issue is finding the pails) Rather than spend 30K per acre, putting in fancy drainage I chose a patch of land that has very sandy subsoil. A hole filled with water drains in 10 minutes. I mark the hole locations with survey paint, and hire a high school kid to auger holes in. He can set about 25 pails per hour. Works out to about 50 cents. So a row of 100 pots costs me 50 bucks of hired kid, 3 hours wear on my groundhog, 2 hours of my time processing the pots (also kid labour possible) and the time to scrounge 100 pails (typically an afternoon.) Every one else runs their greenhouse north-south. I plan to make mine east-west. Everyone else makes a separate head house. I plan to put an insulated wall 1/3 of the width from the north side. Paint it white. In spring here the sun is fairly low. (Its 36 degrees up at noon on spring solstice) So bedding plants tend to lean to the south. With a white north wall, I should be able to even out the illumination considerably, at the cost of 1/3 of the floor space. Insulate the north side too. Gives me a triangular space 1/3 W by L with a height ranging from 12 feet at the wall down to the bottom of the greenhouse wall. This space will be mostly filled with water barrels -- about 180 for a 60 x 30 house. 3 per foot of length The exhaust fans will pull air from the peak and run through the barrels, and exit the bottom of the triangular space. At night, the air goes back to the green house under the benches. I figure I can heat a greenhouse down to about -15 C in March for the price of running fans. Math: A double poly greenhouse averages R1 per square foot of floor space. If I want to maintain 50 F temps inside, I have roughly a 50 degree differential. So a 1 foot slice of greenhouse 20 feet wide has 20 square feet of floor space, which will take 20*50 = 1000 BTU/hour to heat. Or about 12000 btu for a night. For the sake of making numbers simple, increase that to 15000 3 barrels of water is 1500 lbs of water. So I have to raise the temp of the water by 10 F to have enough heat. Air has about the 40% thermal energy as water -- per pound. Air at the top of the peak is typically 20-30 degrees warmer than the ground level when the air doesn't circulate Daytime green house temps run about 70-75, so peak temps are about 100. To get 15000 btu, assuming only 30% efficiency in heating the barrels, I have to move 40000 lbs of 100 degree air to get a 10 degree rise. Air is about an ounce per cubic foot, so 40,000 lbs of air is about 640,000 cubic feet. At 8000 cfm that's about 80 minutes. Given that the bulk of the heating will happen in 3-5 hours in mid day, this is a comfortable margin....See MoreToday's TorCon Index Numbers for OK
Comments (5)I just got back from buying tornado supplies and need to stock the cellar, so I'll pop back out to do that in a second. I came here to post the new numbers, but wonder if maybe I should do it on a new thread that will be a bit more eyecatching. DH, who is the chief of our local VFD, scared me by buying cans of fluorescent paint to use in searches of homes if we have a tornado. I know it is important to be prepared, but....watching him buy that paint just sent a chill up my spine. Even though we all know a tornado "could" hit any of us, we never think it will specifically hit our homes, our communities, our friends and families. DH has worked in law enforcement for 30 years and doesn't scare easily. This is as 'spooked' as I've ever seen him. (He got started on the 'spooking' early at a county-wide fire planning meeting last night during which they discussed the emergency plans for today.) For anyone who doesn't already know, Dr. Forbes raised the NE OK--SE KS TorCon from an 8 to a 9. He raised the SC OK TorCon to a 7, but left the NC TX TorCon at 6. I believe the rest of OK still has the 5-6 it had earlier. Shad, I need to go back and find the old thread I posted on Sunday. I am sure it had those TorCon Index numbers. I believe SW MO and NE OK had a 6 or 7. I am not positive, but I think Dr. Forbes has only given a '9' twice before: once last year for Yazoo City, MS, which had a massive tornado that day...think it was the last Saturday or next-to-last Saturday in April 2010 and bet you could google and find it. Then, about a month or so ago, he gave Tuscaloosa a '9' and we all know what happened that day. I'm going to quickly write the new TorCon and add a couple more key facts, especially for Sooner folks..... Then, I'll stock my cellar and be back here in a jiffy to find Sunday's TorCon number. I don't know either where they stop referring to an area as northcentral versus northeast. If I have time, I'll try to find out. If I was in Tulsa, I'd want to say I was in NE OK, but for NWS purposes, I don't know where the line breaksbetween NE/NC. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: New TorCon Numbers Here...See MoreCurrent Keetch-Byram Drought Index Map
Comments (15)Scott, Thanks for the explanation of how the timing of the rainfall affects the quality/size of the crop. I found that really interesting. I think, oddly enough, that your trees will suffer more than mine in a dry year. Mine are used to dry years more often but yours are "spoiled" and are used to plentiful moisture since that's what they normally have. Mine cannot miss what they never have, but yours surely must miss the level of moisture they're used to receiving. I'm in the part of OK that still is teetering just on the edge of drought, but not in drought yet, and adjacent areas of Texas between us and Dallas are in the same boat. Yet, there have been some very big, fast-moving grassfires and wildfires there in between rounds of rain. That was especially true in May and June when wheat fields were catching fire, often from the combines that were doing the harvesting. One week I'll think they look insanely dry when we drive through there, but then a couple of weeks later it will look a lot more green. It is such an odd year down here--seesawing back and forth from too dry to a little wet to too dry again. In February and March we were too wet, but that seems so long ago. Scott, I don't put much faith in any forecast more than 48 hours in advance. The NWS seems to have more luck forecasting, for example, the conditions that come together for a severe weather outbreak than they have forecasting the high temperature 24 hours in advance. Last year and this year our high temp has consistently gone 3 to 5 degrees (or more) higher than forecast. Last year I decided maybe our thermometers (mounted 5' above ground in full shade all day) were wrong and kept buying more thermometers. We now have 6 and I can tell you that our thermometers all tend to agree with one another within 1 degree, but almost never agree with the Burneyville mesonet station or the forecast. If the NWS says "93", then Tim and I expect it will be at least 95 to 97, and it usually is. I just look at the rain forecasts and shrug. Most of the time when there is a chance of rain, it doesn't fall here, and there's nothing we can do to change that. I try not to obsess over it because we sure cannot make it rain. I expect that it is somewhat challenging to forecast the weather here in the middle of the country because of the way so many different contributing factors come together (or don't come together). Our local forecasters seem to have a pretty good handle on our weather, and often they will disagree with the NWS forecast and sometimes they even explain why the don't expect some part of the NWS forecast to pan out. I appreciate that they take the time to explain their reasoning. It cannot be easy, either, because they cover a lot of area on both sides of the river. Remember the words of Mark Twain? He said "everybody talks about the weather but nobody does anything about it". That's as true now as it was when he wrote it. Dawn...See MoreIndex funds
Comments (15)Vanguard in general is an excellent fund company - they are the one I use for all of my investments. Whether or not the specific fund you mention is appropriate for you depends entirely on the rest of your financial picture, though. Do you already have other retirement investments, and if so, what is that money invested in? Is your retirement money in 401K/IRA or taxable accounts? Do you have other short term investments, real estate holdings, cash holdings, etc? What percentage of your assets does this new money comprise? What is your personal risk tolerance? Those are just some of the most basic questions you will need to answer before anyone (including advisors at places like Vanguard) can give you helpful advice....See More- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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