Central TX - Does a room require a closet to be considered a bedroom?
MagdalenaLee
8 years ago
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sylviatexas1
8 years agogardenerlorisc_ia
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
master bedroom, closet, bath layout
Comments (12)First, thanks for some honest feedback while we can still make floorplan changes. We're aiming for a long-term home that suits our lifestyle but would not make future buyers say, "They can't really be serious." I had to laugh and cringe, david_cary. We seem to be walking the knife's edge. homey_bird, I'm afraid what you see here is the result of hours of stewing. We drafted the initial plan and want to work out all the specifics before we send it for bids. As everyone knows, one change affects so many things that we stay up late and our heads start spinning. We will seriously consider all feedback. At the risk of TMI, I'll attach the original elevations and floorplans. This second floor plan doesn't include the deep tub or larger shower in the master bath. Trying to fit those items has been a problem. Creek_side and alabamanicole, thank you for your feedback and your interest in the bigger picture. We've also been thinking about how we use the master bath. My dh likes to spend an hour locked in the bathroom each morning (?) so I would really enjoy a vanity in the hall dressing area. I don't think we would use two sinks in the master concurrently. I was hoping a vanity would help resale too if we put only one sink in the master. So what is the room between the master bedroom and bath? Good question. A vanity which could also function as a seat for dressing, an east-facing window (view of the wetlands behind us), a small triangular closet, a longer reach-in closet, and some built in shelving. I've looked at our wardrobe and realized that we need half our closet space for hanging and half for shelved items (folded clothes, shoes, purses). The previous walk-in closet plan seemed too tight for a seat or vanity and the window was small in order to minimize damage to clothes. We are open to any suggestions to get an attractive, functional, reasonably priced dressing area. The one foot deep storage in the bathroom is our attempt to get as much storage as possible in there for soaps, shampoos, toilet paper, towels, cleaning supplies etc. We could give the bathroom a foot from the closet area for deeper storage in the bath. We assumed that the shower door would be 2-3 feet wide (out of five) so the bench could wrap around and we could still open the shower door. I'll attach a rough view from our home planning software that requires a lot of imagination. The tub is just 40 inches in diameter and would be positioned near the window with the internal seat facing toward the east window/view. The rest of the deck would be tiled so we could step on the bench, sit on the tile deck, and swing our legs over into the tub. That's the theory, anyhow. We put in a pedestal sink to give us more room near the bath and to approximate art deco style. The window above it is a transom for more light at the sink. There is a mirrored medicine cabinet directly in front of the sink. We have been partial to east facing windows (top of floor plan) because that is our view of a wetlands. The master bedroom also has transoms to the south (right of plan) because we have 1.5 story neighbors on that side and would like as much sunlight as possible. Thanks for the comment about the toilet area and corner windows, creek_side. We can cut adjust those. Please feel free to throw us a comment about anything else on the plan as well. Now's our chance to fix it. Liz...See MoreConvert small bedroom to master closet?
Comments (8)I am guessing your joists run top to bottom in your layouts... How are you going to drain your tub and sinks? It is unlikely it will be possible or cost-effective to drill through all the joists to join those drains to your main stack. It is more likely the plumber will want to add a stack. (We are just finishing up a remodel with these sorts of questions. I was surprised that it was easier/more cost-effective to add a stack than it was to connect to an existing stack). So, before you do anything definitive and "stuck" with your current toilet position, call in a plumber who does remodels to get their feedback....See MorePlease show me your small bedroom closets
Comments (31)You might consider the attachable or cascading hangers. Began using the Homz brand of these years ago from Target. Several manufacturers now make them, along with loop shapes alone for attaching hangers you have. They are flatter than the regular plastic hangers so take up half the rod space of those. They hook to each other vertically without crushing the fabric. Bed Bath & Beyond carries this type in 10 packs for $4, an average price. Ignore the prices at Amazon (too high in my book) but read the reviews, including one from another 1920's homeowner. Although we have a large walk-in closet now, still appreciate the degree of organization they offer, such as 5 summer-weight long sleeve shirts hanging in a line together with sleeves exposed so I can choose one easily, along with the hanging space they free up. My DH finally decided to try them & was surprised it's much easier now to locate what he's after. I put shirts right out of the dryer on these hangers & find they don't wrinkle hanging in the closet. There are also children's sized hangers like this useful for lingerie, as well as skirt hangers. Hang purses from them, too, stacking the hangers & enclosing the whole thing in a clear zippered dress bag. Shoes not worn daily go with silica packets in individual clear plastic shoe boxes labeled with ID that stack neatly, boots in larger boxes of double width & same height, feet at opposite ends & shanks along the outsides forming two interlocking L's. Two of the shoe boxes fit atop one of the boot boxes & it's easy to restack them for the season. They fit on a top shelf or floor & keep footwear clean & easily retrievable. Out of season sweaters are stacked into wider versions of the boot boxes, with arms folded across the front & the bottom folded to the neck in front. Keeps them from creasing & several fit in each box. Out of season pants & trousers go into the same size box, folded so the legs of one interlap the next pair, keeping them from wrinkling. After measuring my pants from waist to hem, found a dresser with drawers long enough to fit them without folding. Pants & sweaters are swapped out from dresser drawers to boxes each season. Inexpensive pretty hatboxes hold odds & ends, stacked or on shelves. Can you tell I've lived in homes with no or skimpy closets over the years? Some of those closets were 6" deep with single doors & hooks screwed to the wall or ceiing. Resorted to flat-top wooden trunks with & without legs that could be stacked to conserve floor space. Still have a 3-stack of those in the front room here, with others doing duty as end tables, coffee tables, bedtables, bedroom trunks & window seats in this modern home with plenty of large closets. Craft stores & places like Tuesday Morning & Marshall's carry inexpensive decorative cardboard & wooden nesting boxes in a variety of patterns & configurations, including book boxes that stack or sit upright. These hold desk papers, folders, magazines & catalogs, gloves, hats & scarves in the coat closet, even my brush in the powder room with a pedestal sink & no vanity. So fond of trunks & boxes, even the matching end tables flanking the LR sofa are hinged trunks on legs holding a stash of board games close at hand & out of sight... Here is a link that might be useful: Attachable hangers example This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jan 6, 15 at 18:58...See Morebuilding code requirements for new bedroom
Comments (15)I assume you are also planning for tamper-resistant receptacles. They are stocked everywhere now, but the old receptacles are very common in many stores. When you insulate and frame the walls you have some other code requirements to keep in mind. Here are a few that come to mind. Basement cement walls are seldom completely straight, and as part of adding moisture barriers and insulation it is common to have small gaps between the cement wall and the framing. Exterior wall framing must have fire blocking at the top so there is no path from the framing into the floor joist area above, and it must have vertical blocking every 10 linear feet of wall. You can use drywall, OSB, or spray foam, etc. for fire block material. It will be inspected as part of your framing inspection. In above ground framed walls you have most of the moisture coming from the inside (people, cooking, etc.) so the vapor barrier is usually on the inside next to the drywall. However, below ground basement walls usually need a vapor/moisture barrier on the outside, facing the cement. You want your moisture barrier on the the "moist side", and in a basement you always have a moderate amount of moisture coming through the cement. Closed cell foam is probably the best vapor barrier, but its also common to use heavy plastic sheeting. Some floor coverings do not work well in a basement. For example, high quality epoxy works well on an above ground patio, but the below-grade moisture may be too much for it to adhere well in a basement if there is no moisture barrier under the concrete. Basement bedrooms require an egress window or a door in the bedroom that leads directly outside. You cannot substitute a walk-out door in a common area to meet this requirement. In most areas the habitable space in a basement must have 80" of headroom to the finished ceiling. They give you some leeway for shorter areas that will allow you to box beams and HVAC vents, but you need to ensure you know what the inspector will allow. Bruce...See Moresylviatexas1
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