Thanks for the replies. @ Tiemco so Tall fescue is the type of seeds I need to buy for that bare spots? Sorry is that's a dumb question LOL! Here is the bare spot in the front. Below are a few pictures of the rear. @ Newrandwest I noticed the tearing when I was reviewing the pics. I have a push mower & that it a brand new blade on it. Do you have to sharpen new blades? I just thought about it. I used a pellet type of weed & feed shortly before the guy at the store told me to try the liquid kind. I only treated the front half of the yard with that & I treated the whole yard with the liquid. I dont know if that was too much for the grass but I believe the pellets are the reason the front looks pretty green & half decent. I didn't use the pellets in the back because money was getting low plus the back was in really bad condition & needed a lot of work. The yard has a little incline up to the canter then it goes back down & that kinda hide the rough parts from the front. Here is the main problem spot in the front yard. From the front porch Up close Dead? Under the side extension for the kitchen Back yard. You can see the weed killer are keeping those little white flower things in the other yard Is if my yard wasn't jacked up enough... Thanks Direct TV guy! If I could get my entire yard to look like this part in the front I would be very happy :-)

Sure looks like tall fescue. TF is not invasive. Very few tall fescues have rhizomes and thus don't even repair well, a TF fault. There's no root intertwining and so sod is grown on plastic netting so it can be lifted and handled. It has to be overseeded occasionally, unlike (spreading) KBG, the King. But yes, a stray TF seed can cause this trouble. If you only have a little of it, just trowel out the crowns, easy when the soil is damp. Hairlike roots probably won't regenerate a plant. Or,with isolated clumps, I have occasionally used an artist's brush to apply Roundup carefully so as not to kill adjacent grass.

You will have to go buy something that you SPRAY on the weeds to actually kill them or remove them by hand. Halts will only PREVENT weeds from growing for 2-3 months. There is no other way around getting rid of them, you will either have to spray them and wait a few weeks and spray again most likely or get a string trimmer and take them out and then dig the soil up to make sure you got everything. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and look for a product called Image kills Nutsedge. It will be in a white bottle with a green top. You can use that to kill chickweed and not worry about hurting your lawn. With the cooler temperatures it WILL take longer for you to see the weeds die off but they will eventually.

whatever that weed is we don't see it much on this forum. My first choice for a weed killer would be Weed-B-Gone. Second choice would be Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. Third choice would be Brush-B-Gone. Those are three increasingly effective varieties of the same weed killer. The grass looks more like bermuda than zoysia. Is it still growing? Can you pull up a surface runner and take a picture? Does it get seed heads if you don't mow it for a week or so? Can you take a picture of any seed heads? Where do you live? Zones don't matter. We need the city or zip code to help you better. You need to calibrate your sprinkler(s). Put some tuna or cat food cans around the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will always be your watering time. If you have a zoned system do that for each zone. Once you have done that calibration, there will be an inch of water in your soil. When you get back with your location I can tell you more about when to water again. It won't be for a couple of weeks, so don't get panicky. 60 days is not long to go from beautiful to this. I suspect the lawn had been nursed carefully while it was for sale and now it has collapsed. If you live in El Paso or west of Junction, I will change my story on that. For right now, I would apply a starter dose of organic fertilizer along with the water mentioned above. For fertilizer you can use corn meal, alfalfa pellets, or Milorganite. Those are in order of increasing cost. You can get the first two at a feed store. They might have Milorganite there, too, but for sure at a garden store. A bag of corn meal should cost under $10. A bag of alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) should be around $12-$14. Milorganite might be on sale for $8 but usually it's above $16. The application rate for the first dose would be 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Then 3 weeks later you can go up to the normal dose of 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This should correct any soil biology issues. This is in addition to the weed n feed you already used. In the future stay away from those. If this works for you, I'll be surprised, but fine. Usually those don't work well as either weed killer or fertilizer. If you want to kill weeds spot spray with a liquid. If you want to fertilize, use a fertilizer. The problem with wnf is you usually need one or the other but never both at the same time. The other problem is to apply it correctly takes two people working in close harmony to keep the grass moist while the product is going down. Then watch the grass for signs that it is no longer growing. When that happens give it one last dose of a very high N fertilizer with very low or zero P and K. After that forget about it until April. Keep it watered once a month during the winter. Mulch mow at your mower's lowest setting two times then raise it up a notch for the rest of the season. Mulch mow 2x to 3x per week at that higher setting until it stops growing.