This is long, but important, so please read all the way through. My personal theory as to WHY the dirt in these pads do not like to come clean in the first place is because they are all made out of synthetic microfiber blends. This is NOT a rant about doing everything in your life all-natural so please stay with me. In the beginning of my Cosmetology education, I learned that synthetic fibers (such as those used on wigs and cosmetology tools and brushes, do Not like hot water. Only cold or at least tepid water could be used unless you enjoy having your brushes, cloths and wig hairs get all tangled and matted up in an instant, melted in some cases, or hairs/fibers fused together. It’s synthetic. It can’t take the heat. With that said, I suspect these companies insisting on using microfiber steam mop pads are setting us all up for failure from the beginning. Steam is insanely hot and WILL melt and fuse the little fibers together during use (this is why they say not to put them in the dryer). Steam blows open the fibers in an intense way which is something else I learned in Cosmo school. Steam always works better than hot water in opening up skin pores for instance. Material fibers are no different… unless that material blows up but then breaks down with said heat. Polyester and Nylon just can’t take the heat. You might ask why the heck these companies would make their pads with microfiber if that were true. I’m glad you asked - I suspect the mop companies use these materials anyway, because it’s much cheaper than cotton and will slide nicely across the floor. They know if their customers feel they have to push too hard, they won’t want to use it and will go with the other company that does use microfiber. Let’s be honest, “microfiber” is like some positive buzz word in the retail industry when actually many of us avoid it like Covid. It only has a few good qualities, none of which are involved with mop heads. Microfiber, is good only for scrubbing, acting as a water repellent in some cases, and behaving somewhat like Velcro when used for dry sweeping. Have you ever tried to remove things that stuck to microfiber material after being in the wash or dryer? It’s not fun is it? When microfiber is used in wet cleaning applications however, that synthetic material DOES NOT ABSORB. It just doesn’t. It’s synthetic. Synthetics don’t absorb like a natural fiber (e.g. Cotton) does. Try wiping dry your kitchen countertop with a microfiber wash cloth, and then try again with an all cotton and you will see what it is I’m saying. All of this to share that I finally found a solution to not only keep my microfiber pads from getting too dirty (or worse than they already are), but to also pick up dirt far better than what the pads were originally doing (I have one of the Bissell Power Fresh Pet steam mops for reference). SOLUTION: I take a damp, wrung out steam mop pad, flip it inside out (I also cut off the scent disk pocket), place it on my steam mop, then place the mop down on top of a 100% cotton shop towel and click down the flip scrubber piece in the back of my mop so that it grabs my towel. At this point, I use the mop as usual on the highest steam output setting. Why do I flip the mop pad inside out? Because I discovered that it allows the towel underneath to stay put a little better and glides across the floor better as well. I have also only ever done this with a damp, completely wrung out mop pad in place, but with a dry shop towel. After the towel gets dirty, I rinse out the mop pad and wring it out again as much as possible before placing back on my mop and grabbing another clean, dry shop towel. The benefit here, is not only are my floors getting that much more clean, but I can buy cotton shop towels by the mass for much cheaper than those mop pads AND they clean up white so much easier! If you want to bleach, then bleach. If you want to use your usual make-em-white method, then do that instead. The world is your oyster. Cheaper Works better Cleans up Whiter Easy It’s what has finally worked for me and my mop. I hope it helps some of you too.

jasdip, i have both a single induction plate (Frigidaire) and an induction cooktop (Electrolux) and use cast iron pots & pans without any problems; and when cooking dried beans (kidney beans), the cast iron pot simmers away on the hob for a couple of hours or more. So I think it is the quirkiness of certain pans on certain cooktops, rather than incompatibility per se, that causes some issues. I have one stainless steel pot that squeaks and whines on occasion, whereas other stainless steel pots do not. If you know anyone with induction, why not try your pan on their hobs to see if it is the pan or the induction plate that is misbehaving.

As to your original question - I've found bamboo. Tongs, forks, spoons, spatulas, whisk-ers, de-fatting brushes, and knives. No matter the pan coating, these work beautifully. I make a lot of jam and candy that gets above 220F - up to 350F -- and those stirring beauties don't blink. They go through the dishwasher - no prob; have no odor transfers, are non-porous, get no gunk buildup, but perhaps some discoloring, that Clorox Clean-up fixes easily. Rarely having had burnt food in non-stick pans, all I can say is "keep the heat down" to prevent it. Cast iron pans only need to be re-seasoned when they stop being non-stick. Searing meat is best done in cast iron fry pans on med-high. Hot oil is frying done like that too, on less than the highest mark. Sauteing veggies are most easily done in curved sided pans or in a wok - medium heat. Woks should be heated before the oil is put in - just a few minutes to get there. As for your question about heating non-stick pans - only heat the pan to the temp that is lower than the flash point of the oil you will be using (temps avail on the web). Medium heat is all that is needed for most things. A lot lower for eggs (low and slow). Boiling is better done in a stainless steel X-size quart pot (depending on the volume), not a fry pan, and is set on high only until the water begins to boil, then is turned down to the next couple of marks to conserve energy costs - water will still boil on a lower setting. If your wife wants chicken done quicker by cutting into them - then slice them first to make fillets, or pound them thin, and broil them fast. Steaks should not be done on the stove top. IMHO. They need high heat and to be done quickly. Broiling 2-3 inches from the electric coil, or top gas flame, or on a propane grill set to almost high. Steaks are done AFTER they have rested --- so cook them to less than you want (rare, medium, etc.) because they continue to cook AFTER they have rested 10-15 minutes. Cutting them open to "see" means the juices will not have settled back into the meat and will result in the food tasting "dry". If you want to check the temp without cutting them, buy a cheap instant read thermometer or, for a little more $, one that you stick into the meat and set the temp for alerting you to what you punch in (about $10). The internal temps are avail on-line to print out and tack to your refrigerator door. And, as an aside - Fresh vegetables taste so much better when steamed and their vitamins are retained, as opposed to boiling them to death. IMHO the highest gas setting on a range is rarely ever used. Nancy Here is a link that might be useful: Meat/Poultry/Seafood Temps

Since this thread was recently updated, thought I'd post my own updates. In my 2 earlier messages re my Hoover Twin tank, I mentioned that I loved it but the plastic was falling apart. Hoover did replace it in March of 2014, but by December the same problem was occurring. The blue plastic just seems to disintegrate. I've read other complaints about the same thing...it's quite astonishing to be pushing the mop along and having bits and pieces, and then screws just falling out along the floor. I plan to call Hoover tomorrow. Realistically, although it's still within the 2 year warranty, since they've already replaced it once I have no hopes of getting a replacement unit, nor am I sure I even want another one.