two things... we both live in extreme climates. 1)we don't put ducts in exterior walls because of heat gain, you for cold gain. 2)we install ductwork on interior walls and blow the air to the exterior walls. old school (25+ years ago) locating supplies in ceilings next to windows was standard. the grills would blow the air to the window. nowdays we have more knowledge..if we take advanatge of educating ourselves..and understand that blowing warm air on a cold window leads to condensation. with better supply grills we can put the air exactly where we want it to go. gotta love 4 way supply grills! putting ductwork inside conditioned space in false boxing over cabinets..or building boxing (fur downs) might work in your application. it mostly depends upon the layout. if the closet you plan to use is centrally located, the the bottom of the closet is return, the middle is equipment, and the top supply plenum & ducts. with this configuration you need to determine if there is a pathway to serve all rooms. having that simple drawing of the layout would be helpful. if you can't post it, email it to me & I'll post it for you. would a mitisibushi mini split heat pump meet your requirements? "an after thought if I can find the highest blower I can get maximum cfm could I get away with all ceiling registers?" how? build fur downs at ceilings for ducts? not quite clear on this after thought! how's the temps there today??..we are in mid 60's.. a little cool spell after high 70's last week. best of luck.

Without the cabinets and ref, 4 feet is adequate, wall to counter edge, 4.5 feet is better if you're going around the seated people carrying things - like to get dishes or service pieces to/from the dining space while the stools are occupied. With cabinets and chairs, the minimum is really about 5 feet - 3 feet for working space in front of the cabinets. With the ref there, it depends a lot on the exact ref and how irritating it will be when the corner is booked up by someone standing in front of the ref. With a little dash of the unwary trying to come in from dining having ref door open into their face. Typical for counter depth refs (as far as there is typical) is that the whole thing is about 30" deep. It's already using about 6" of aisle. Also, the poster is drawing a cabinet plan so the aisle decreases by about 3" altogether for counter overhangs. In the drawing above with a 42" island, the poster starts with a 3'10ish" aisle between a 42" island and the ref - but it is really drawn as a 2 foot deep cabinet. The poster might be getting a liebherr or subzero or similar where its really 24" deep including everything - dunno. But - again typically, the ref is 6" deeper and the island has another 1.5" to bring to the impacts-the-aisle-space party (it looks like the same omission of accounting for aisle space on the other side, so the island itself might shift some towards the ref to accommodate - up to a total of 4.5"). That would put the finished aisle between 38.5" with a strong possibility of it decreasing to around 34" - not plenty of room for occupied stool, a passage way and opening the ref doors or any size while the stool is occupied.

I would first address structural issues. It looks to be very lightly constructed; probably not anywhere near current codes. The roof, in particular is subject to some serious stresses if you get snow in your area. I would like to see some kind of rafters tying the walls together for starters. If you could find some rough-sawn material, it would add to the look. Even a few of them would add considerably to the roof integrity. It's going to be hard to insulate the walls and keep the exposed studs. To look good, you would have to have some kind of planking as your first layer on the outside, followed by considerable insulation and then siding. Bear in mind that walls like that have little protection from wracking. You certainly either want to do just one wall at a time, and probably put temporary diagonal bracing. There really should be permanent diagonal bracing for a planked wall structure. It would be much easier to sheathe the outside with OSB, then a layer of foam, then the siding. Use conventional insulation in the wall cavities, then drywall, or better yet, horizontal planking to keep the character of the cottage. The same rules apply to the roof, although you would want to keep the planking if it is in good shape. I would strip the roofing, and if all is good, apply a thick rigid foam layer- like 6", then outer sheathing screwed through the foam to the roof structure, then tar paper and shingles. I think it looks like a fun project! Just make sure you protect/improve the structural integrity as you go. It's been found that tightening up air leaks can have as much impact as insulation, so work carefully, and put some study into modern energy efficient practices. Greenbuildingtalk is a good forum for more technical info. As for the pipes underneath, they can go into the ground in an insulated (and possibly heated) box. You're going to want to insulate the floor, too.

The bedrooms and bathrooms are in the same family of colors but are a lighter shade. When you open the door to go into the bathrooms they are a lighter gray from the same color family. Nicely done. I personally think blues are hard to coordinate, but I also know my own limitations, and I know I am a total idiot when it comes to color. As far as my house looking real people nice .. you said it perfectly! That is exactly right on point and exactly what I wanted and could afford It’s just my family home, sweet, simple and a place that makes me feel happy when I look at it That's my goal too. Also, my bedroom suit was dark oak and in pretty good shape. I lightly sanded it, primed it, sprayed it and brushed the tops of the dresser, night tables, and chester drawers so they would be more durable It turned out beautiful and I finished the entire project in about 5 days You've convinced me to paint my bed when we move. but I can assure you that I would never paint my home again.. it would have been worth double that to pay someone It gave me a great respect for painters and why it cost so much .. it is a job that I would never want to do again.. I’m still touching up paint and if I could I would have used spray paint I don't mind painting a room here and there ... but to paint the whole house /I assume you mean interior only ... and to paint new drywall, well, that's a task. At the same time, $10,000 is no mean savings.