It won't hurt to try, but it is late in the season, dormancy is knocking on the door. I would give it one feeding with it. It will store the P over the winter and it may make it bloom faster next spring. Did it put out a fake inflo to make it branch or did it already bloom before you got it?

I love what one pediatrician/author said when a mother expressed her concern about late-arriving baby teeth: "What do you want me to do--go in and get them?" Aren't we funny? My daughter was the last in her grade-school class to lose a baby tooth--it didn't happen until the summer after first grade. In fact, in first grade (on parent-observation day), she got an answer wrong during an exercise in estimation: "how long does it take your new tooth to come in? 2 months, or 2 days?" She said 2 days--she'd never been through it, and probably hadn't paid attention to the kids around her. I've been told that sometimes (not always) there's a correlation between late-arriving baby teeth and late-to-fall-out baby teeth. It's true in her case.

Hi everyone, I was just researching this subject for work (I work at Guide Dogs for the Blind) so I will share some pricing info. However, first, PLEASE USE EXTREME CAUTION with diatamaceous earth. It is dangerous for humans to breathe the dust and presumably the same is true for pets. I would encourage you to wear a dust mask and to read up on it beforehand. Wikipedia has a good article. Also, personally I would definitely not put that in your pet's ears. It's dangerous to put it in your lungs and I wouldn't trust that it's safe in the ears. Also it's a little like pouring sand in your pet's ears, which seems like a bad idea.(This opinion is not based on any research, just my personal thoughts.) OK, on to cost savings with commercial flea/tick control. :-) 1. From scouting lots of web sites I agree that Entirelypets.com appears to be the least expensive for all flea and tick (and just about any other) products. 2. If you split doses of Frontline or other topical liquids, do be sure to use a needle and syringe to measure the amount as another poster recommended (for safety) and be absolutely sure not to mix your products up if you have cats in the household. If you accidentally apply some dog flea products to a cat it can rapidly cause extreme illness and death if not recognized and treated quickly. Also, dividing doses does not work for all kinds of medication--some dosages are not based on volume; so I would not recommend this idea across the board with other drugs. 3. I've heard from people in the industry that the patent on Frontline is supposed to run out in the next year or so. But since I have been unable to find any confirmation of that anywhere I can't say for sure. 4. Some products combine flea and heartworm protection so you may want to double-check on some like Revolution, (or Advantage Multi for those who don't have to worry about ticks)--they might be less expensive than having to pay for two separate products, depending on your dog's weight. 5. If you stick with Frontline, be sure to buy PLUS, not "Top Spot". Top Spot can't kill eggs and larvae, which are the vast majority of the flea population, so if you're having trouble with effectiveness, be sure you've got Frontline Plus. Also definitely make sure all pets in your household are being treated, and address the environment. If you have fleas in your house, it will take a few months of consistent flea medication, vacuuming, washing bedding in hot water, etc. to get rid of all of them. Because they are constantly breeding and not all products kill all life stages, so you have to stop the new generations of fleas that didn't die in your first attack. Don't worry, it will eventually work! 6. And don't forget, as I think someone else mentioned, that you usually pay a lot less per dose if you buy in bulk. A 6-pack is more economical than a 3-pack, and some products even come in 12-packs--if you have the cash to spend up front it will save you money over time. 7. If you buy products online or from Australia or Canada, beware that the product might not be authentic. Someone mentioned seeing an expiration date on their Frontline box. Authentic Frontline manufactured by Merial does not have an expiration date. The FDA has some guidelines to help you ensure that you don't get swindled. It is well worth reading: http://www.fda.gov/CONSUMER/UPDATES/PETDRUGSONLINE121407.HTML Good luck!

Do NOT let him get away with this. Do not allow it. My dog, when I was younger did this and we got bit a lot. He even did it with tennis balls. When we got another dog, the other died, I was older and every time she would eat, my hand would be in her bowl and I would move it away occasionally. I would also pick it up and then give it back to her after a minute. I was determined not to go through food aggression again! My dog wouldn't bite if you smacked her in the face with a chicken leg but prevention is the key. When you put the food down. Tell him to sit or lie down. Hold it above the floor, keeping eye contact, hold it there for a minute. When YOU'RE ready, put it down. Maybe pick it up a few times before he can get to it. Make sure you stand between him and the food. Block him for a while. Only let him eat when you decide it's okay. If he starts growling, step between him and the food. Tell him to drop it. Don't sound excited, just be very firm. You may need tough shoes or a garbage can lid. No stick or anything! Keep at it and it should stop. The dominant dogs in the pack eat first. AFTER they're done, then they move away. Even if a lower dog made the kill, the dominant dog will move in and take the kill. The insubordinates will move aside. Your dog isn't respectful of your dominance if he's challenging you. If this is his nature, then you just have to be persistent. The problem may stem from other situations. Does he get down from the couch when you say to? Does he beg even if you say no? Is he pulling on the leash? People may disagree on the importance of this but just think, what if your dog gets into some chocolate? How would you be able to yoink it out of his mouth? Teaching him to "drop it" is very important for this kind of purpose. If I don't know where my dog got something and don't know what it is, I tell her to drop it and some times she doesn't but I have no objections from her when I reach into her mouth to pull it out. Take the food away from him some times and give it back. Display your dominance. If he senses that you're a strong leader, than he'll realize he doesn't have a chance of pushing you aside. Animals pick on the weak. All these things need to be a constant practice so that he doesn't forget and it's not stressful for him.