Hmmmm... I was going to say you weren't watering enough. Three intervals of three minutes isn't very much. And in 100 degree temps, I'd say what little bit of water that's being applied is evaporating very quickly. But after after backing off you're finding the worst areas are still "WET" and in poor-draining, heavily-shaded spots, you've probably overwatered those areas. I'd continue to keep watering as you currently are. Good job waiting until you see signs of wilting. But I'd also only hand-water those areas that are showing signs of wilting. Hold off on the poor-draining, well-shaded areas until they start to wilt. The good news is that if your patches of brown aren't too large, the St. A will fill it in rather quickly once you get your watering dialed in. (I had a 10' diameter bare patch where the kids' pool was last year that filled in in about 8 weeks this spring.)

Wow! I'm glad this came back around. I think everyone has learned something since this thread was started. And now Houzz does notify you when messages you have posted on get more action. So maybe we can tune both of you up at the same time. You should not have to core aerate, ever, with very few exceptions. If you have hard soil there are chemistry reasons and biological reasons for that. The chemistry reason is most often an imbalance in the salts (magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium). Those can be addressed with a good soil test. The better lawn forums have been recommending Logan Labs in Ohio for soil testing for the past few years. Their $25 test is what you need. They will email the results to you. If you post them here morpheuspa will give you an extensive reading of the results and get you on your way toward soil perfection. The other reason the soil might be hard and clay-like is biological. There are fungi in the soil that will soften the soil for you once they have been well fed and watered. Spraying the yard with a surfactant will go a long way to allowing water to penetrate the soil and create the environment needed for healthy beneficial fungi. The surfactant can be anything but some are better than others. Ordinary shampoo is a good one. Any clear shampoo, like baby shampoo, will work. Spray the yard at a rate of 3 ounces of shampoo per 1,000 square feet and follow that up with 1/2 inch to 1 inch of water. Allow it 3 weeks to work. If you have other reasons for core aeration, please, lets discuss them. You should also not have to treat for insects unless you have found them in sufficient numbers to treat. The first clue you might have a grub problem is when you see beetles swarming your porch lights in May and June. If you see that then in July, before you see any damage, dig up a square foot of turf down to about 2 inches looking for grubs. If you see fewer than a dozen, then you don't have a grub problem. If you see an uncountable mass of them, then spray. Chinch bugs are more of a southern problem because they like hot soil, but it is possible to see them elsewhere. Spraying insecticide as a preventive measure is not good for the soil biology. Insects are an integral element of healthy soil. Spraying insecticide kills off the bad bugs, but if you don't have bad bugs, then it just kills the beneficial insects. I suspect both of you have watering and mowing height issues. Here's something I wrote a while ago that summarizes what I've learned over the past decade or so. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

I don't need to restate anything I've already said in the seven years since this topic was started. What year is this? 2016? Okay I've used cornmeal on my lawn every year for the past 14 years and it's worked for me. Your mileage may vary. It does not seem to work against red thread, rust, or whatever the fungus is caused by 2 weeks of saturation rainfall. But it does work against the disease caused by blocking off the air to certain grasses. Here's the entirety of kimmsr's link text. I had previously reported that cornmeal was being tested for use as a fungicide, siting a study by researchers at Texas A&M Research Station in Stephenville, TX that was highlighted by Howard Garrett, the Dirt Doctor. I tried it around a couple of tomato plants, but the results were very disappointing. The cornmeal first caked and later turned moldy - not an auspicious experiment. I was then notified by someone at Cooperative Extension in Washington State that the initial testing was for a specific problem under specific conditions, not for a general purpose fungicide. Even then, the cornmeal did not show any promise. It would have been nice if something as available and safe as cornmeal turned out to be effective to, but that is not the case. Cornmeal is not an effective fungicide. -Marie IannottiGardening Expert The Stephenville experiment was done in the 1990s. The specific problem and specific conditions were a variety of assorted fungal diseases on peanut plants. The suggestion was made that by using ordinary corn meal against a variety of diseases (which are common in all gardens), that a farmer would get the same effect as crop rotation. What that means is by using the corn meal a farmer would not have to rotate his crops every year, and he could plant peanuts year after year. That is a huge bonus for a peanut farmer. The paragraph on corn meal was buried in a very long list of possible attacks against disease in peanuts. Doing an experiment once is not considered to be scientifically relevant. Why it was not continued or picked up by other researches is beyond comprehension...unless someone with deeper pockets did not want the research done. TAMU was well known as deeply anti-organic in the 1990s and 2000s. From what I've seen the 2010s are only marginally better than previous decades. As Betty said in her original post corn meal worked for her. It worked for me, too, 14 times. I believe it was working for Ms Iannotti, too, but she did not recognize it as working. She said the corn meal turned moldy. That mold she was seeing, assuming it was the blue-green trichoderma, is exactly the fungus that works against her diseased plants. By not knowing what she was doing, she missed an opportunity to learn something.

What I know as blue star creeper is an entirely different plant, Isotoma fluviatilis. It is an extremely popular groundcover here, as it is easy to grow, holds up well to foot traffic and has long bloom season. It is an excellent lawn substitute. I've not known it to get out of hand and invade lawns but I suppose it is possible. It also doesn't look much like what it is in the photos, as it is very mat-like and flat. I am also not the slightest bit obsessive about a lawn being 100% turf grass. Monocultures are never ideal and I much prefer a mix of various creepers, wildflowers and yes, even weeds in my lawn areas than doing battle with chemical warfare to get rid of what wants to grow there naturally. Turf grass lawns already suck up vast amounts of natural resources and chemical products as it is. Before you opt for whatever herbicide is your choice, confirm the ID first.