Hopefully whoever is drawing your plans can help with the code stuff. There are some here that are good with that stuff. I'm not one of them, but I have picked up some stuff reading here. I think if you prefer the style where the closet is accessed through the bath, then I would definitely try for a door to the toilet. I would keep it in the footprint of the old hallway as you drew, but nudge the bottom wall down even with the bedroom wall to get 60 inches. Leave the shower as is. Consider having the door open into the bedroom so it doesn't interfere with the WC door, or consider a pocket door. You could also use lateral hinges, and that opens the option of designing the door to blend with the wall for a hidden room look. I think you should reconfigure the closet a bit too. Only 12 inches between hanging rows will almost certainly not be enough to allow access to the back half of the rows. I'd guess you might get away with it for shallow rows, but I think 48 inch rows will need more space. Since narrow doorways are 24 inches, I'd guess that would be a decent minimum, but 30-36 would probably be more comfortable. I really haven't read much about closets though. Hopefully someone with some insight will be able to comment. Those windows make things interesting! I sense you are having the same issues I did trying to design around them, though I think it can be done.

This is kinda limited on options. Because of the block wall, you don't really have 107" but only 89". I'm guessing that the door on the left was an 'add-on' - awfully narrow for being part of the original plan. Yeah a pocket door is a most excellent idea. As to placement of fixtures * the tub shower has to stay parallel to the long 120" walls. No way to run it the other direction. * toilet. The allowance from side-to-side on a toilet (room between it and wall or other fixtures) is typically 30" for shoulder room. The actual toilet is about 18" wide max. There is that jog by the ducts that is 29". You are only missing by 1 inch. You could sneak the toilet in there. Toilets are 28" back to front. That would leave you 79 inches to the opposite wall. A 32" doorway with basic 2 1/4 wide trim takes up 36 1/2 -37 inches. So across from the toilet - after allowing for the doorway -you have 42 inches to the wall. SAVE THIS SPACE and we will come back to it. * tub Looking at your diagram, the tub could go in the left hand corner on that long straight wall. It takes up 60" long. and would be 30" wide. From the tub to the opposite wall (bottom of diagram and the left) it would be 59" - not counting that jog with the blocks. From the 59" take out 37" for a 32" door and trim. That leaves you with 22 inches. Put the vanity against the block wall. You can get 60" vanity in there - you have 63". On the other hand maybe a 48" would be better because of the door on the left. Have to try taping it out on the floor to see what would work. * Now back to the wall where the tub is on the left. That leaves 60" on that wall from the tub to the wall on the right and it ends into a wall where you have 42 from the back wall to a doorway. WOW! We have just found space for a really nice size shower. How about a 36 x36 shower? That leaves 6" on the wall to the right for light switches. http://www.homedepot.com/p/DreamLine-Flex-36-in-x-72-in-Framed-Pivot-Shower-Door-in-Chrome-with-36-in-x-36-in-Base-DL-6216C-01CL/205338719 Now with a shower that is not totally glass, you will lose 4 1/2 inches for a wall between the shower and the tub. So from left to right on the uninterrupted 120" wall we have 60 inch long tub 19 1/2 of open space for a towel rack - maybe something like a floor quilt rack or maybe towel bars on the shower wall facing the tub (more room for towel bars between the door on the left and the tub - about 48" 36" x36 shower ANd from left to right on the 120" wall broken up by blocks/ducts we have Vanity - 60" would be good if possible and you could even have double basins but again a 48 " shifted to the right to buy space to get around the corner is probably the better option. Toilet - recessed back into that 29" space. Light switches to the right of the door on the right - next to shower Light switches to the left of the door on the left - near the stairs You have 43 inches from the toilet to shower You have 32 inches from the vanity to the shower (32" is the door width for most interior room doors to give you an idea.) Vanities are 21" deep typically. Now you could go with a "Narrow vanity" at 18-19 inches but those get into 4 figures. You have 38 inches from the vanity to the tub Now in those 58 wide baths, you have 30" from the toilet to the wall and 37" from the sink to the wall. And if the one is only 48" wide - yikes - it is 20" to the wall from the toilet and 27" from the sink. Crowded - oh yeah - I'm 5'2 97 lbs and that would make me claustrophobic! I've been in boat heads (bathrooms to a landlubber) that have more space. (120 inch wall, baths add up to 106, interior walls are 4 1/2 inches....we are missing 9 1/2 inches when comparing the measurements)

I have a bit of a personal emergency going on right now (my coffee cup is almost empty) so I only have time for a short post... These changes are just for the back half of the room, the shower/tub area. Have you considered making the back half of the room a wet room to hold both the tub and shower? Something along the lines of this: Referencing the photo above, your tub would be on the left side, behind the pony wall. If you put the shower head on the back wall, due to the 50" plus depth of the shower you'd have minimal overspray or rebound exiting the wet space. You could omit all of the glass for now to save on your existing budget and add it later if you felt the need. As an alternative you could take that wet room idea and rotate the tub within it as desired. Example, you could orient the long axis of the tub left-right with the tub against the left wall, with the shower tucked in behind the tub. You walk between the tub and your window to get to the shower in back. The "wet room" shower construction would be fairly straight forward. I would recommend you use a sheet membrane to waterproof the walls and floor, it's a few extra dollars, but it'll give you excellent moisture control within the space. Up front, sheet membranes seem like more money and labor, but in a lot of ways they save you in the long run. More coffee. Emergency averted. So one more drawing: Again, the front of the room is the same to minimize plumbing reroutes. This rotates the tub and moves it against the left wall as described in the alternative wet room scenario, but it gets rid of the wet room idea. You'd have about 30" of walk space between the tub and the window. To keep things open and to have a wider shower you could partition the shower and tub spaces with a glass panel, that would keep the spaces more open visually. If you wanted shower privacy, then make it a true partition wall between the shower and tub.

It sounds like this will be a big project and your bathroom may not be usable for several weeks during the renovation. Hopefully, you have a second bathroom to use. I use floor planner for layouts. There's a small annual fee. There are other more sophisticated software tools available. I found floor planner to be the simplest to use. Keeping the toilet vent in the same location will save on plumbing costs. To get a permit from your city, you will need plans to be submitted by an architect. Building Code Requirement: "The minimum interior shower size is 30x30 inches or 900 square inches, in which a disc 30 inches in diameter must fit. Recommended: The distance from the centerline of a toilet and/or bidet to any bath fixture, wall, or other obstacle should be at least 18 inches." Each state and city may have additional code requirements.