Layout done, Now I need design/finishing help!!!
dietitian
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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dietitian
8 years agoRelated Discussions
I have the layout(s), now I need a lot of help!
Comments (9)You've gotten a good starting point from the previous posters. Browse magazines and online photos and you'll discover a common theme in the photos that you like. As far as white and beige, yes, "white" white can be stark and cold looking. An antique or creamier white might be a little more accommodating. And I think one of the previous posters mentioned incorporating a hint of color into the tile border. A creamy tile with a crackle glaze finish can lend depth to the tile, a subtle sense of sophistication and age. If you're unsure of the amount of color to use, then sometimes it's best to stick with neutrals for the permanent part of your installation; the tile, the flooring, the vanity if it's stained wood grain. Don't forget dark neutrals. Ebonized wood, or dark charcoal gray or even black. Incorporate a version of your color into the large colored surfaces...the wall paint and ceiling paint. If you're worried about "too much color" then use a light shade of your color on the large walls. Paint color can be changed with little effort. If you're shy using stronger colors, incorporate the strongest colors through your towels, face cloths, etc. Fabric colors can be changed with no effort. You mentioned blues, one of my favorite blue bathrooms was Casey's. Now, you may think his bathroom boring and mundane when I describe it as having light beige or even "plain white" tiled walls, and blue painted walls. Well, here you go, this does indeed look boring and lifeless, doesn't it? (Sorry Casey, that is NOT an insult. This bath is still one of my favorites if all time). But then you add a little color and: It's an indication of how "boring white tile" can become not so boring and actually quite stunning when the "boring white" is used as a backdrop, or a compliment, to a strong color. If you thought you'd someday like to change the blue to another color, then instead of using the strip of blue tile like Casey used just under the cap on his wainscot, he could have used a strip of black tile, or a strip of the black and white mosaic he used as a border on the floor. The tile would all be "neutral". The paint color becomes the main color in the room. The towels become the accent punch color....See MoreUh-oh, Now I've Done it--please help with color!
Comments (6)That's wonderful! Lots of people like gray and red - I am not among them, because I think reds like that one really shine in a warm scheme ... so I'd choose a soft, vanilla-creamy ivory that leans toward palest gold. Look at B. Moore's Greenmount Silk, Hepplewhite Ivory, Windham Cream, and Montgomery White. That background will also give you lots of options for rug colors, from simple sisal to tribal patterns; and for cushions, in bold solids, traditional or graphic prints and patterns, or textured neutrals. It also looks good with virtually every wood tone in floors and furniture; with brass, silver, and china finishes in lamps, accessories and frames; and also with touches of black....See MoreLayout again, now I think it is better but still need help
Comments (12)Yes, lightlystarched, bmorepanic and salmon_slayer (what a name!), I agree, that 'V' is bothering me too. Do you think it would work if we just softened the 'V' and the countertop corners on the cabinet or would it still be too large? I am hoping to put an undercounter refrigerator there so a smaller one would not work for that purpose. But also don't want to create an eyesore. So I keep looking for pictures of something similar but haven't found anything yet. salmon_slayer, we are going with Elm cabinets, it is a local brand here (NJ), marketed as "reasonably priced" (they think :)) custom cabinets. We saw them at a neighbor's house and were very impressed so decided to use them too. One benefit - same price for inset as for full overlay. I was very happy about that and decided to go with the inset but now learning it may be harder to achieve the integrated look with the dishwasher (the doors on the full overlay help to cover more of the appliances, something I didn't consider previously), so now thinking about that one again. As far as the microwave goes, KD suggested the cabinet above the appliance garage. Well, it is very far from the fridge and also right next to the basement door. Our laundry and also a play area are in the basement so there is some traffic. Should I be concerned about it? The other option is the upper cabinet next to the refrigerator but even apart from the way it would look, it would mean dividing the upper cabinets on both sides of the range into a 24" and a 10" so loosing some storage on the right side as well....See MoreLayout finally decided! Now need cabinet help.
Comments (18)Hi everyone! I am sorry for disappearing. Valin - you were kind enough to share that photo, then what do I do but slack on the response time, just like the last person! I just got unbearably overwhelmed again and needed to take another break. Valin- your island is lovely. Thanks so much for sharing the pic. I am liking this idea of aligning the island with the beam instead of crossing it the other way. To expand on Celtcs idea, I've been thinking of turning the "island" into a penninsula that would be anchored to that wall that the china cabinet was going to be up against. Are there any reasons I shouldn't do this? It would block off traffic from in front of the fridge over to the other side of the kitchen, but, then I could make the penninsula a bit longer thus gaining one more bar seat possibly plus another base cabinet. I really don't think I need a direct line from the fridge to that area, anyways. The only thing I can't figure out is, if I were to keep it 4 feet from the fridge, then how would I handle that wall opening into the PR/future DR since the penninsula would run into that space, widthwise. I seem to have 3 options: -Make the doorway smaller so that the penninsula is completely anchored to the wall and none exposed. -Open the doorway up more so a good 2 feet of penninsula is exposed with the barstools behind the wall along with the overhang. -Leave it the way it is, and just have a foot of the penninsula showing I could move the penninsula back towards the windows so it is perfectly aligned with the wall there, but then the barstools would be crowding up the other side of the kitchen and I do still want an eat-in area there. What do you all think? I hope I explained myself well. If not, I can attach pictures....See Moredietitian
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