Vegas, organic gardening is certainly not a crock and luckily, many hundreds of thousands of growers are willing to go the extra mile to produce organic fruits and vegetables. You should know, though, that you will have to study up on the nutritional requirements of citrus in general...and figure out how to provide them,organically, within the confines of a container. You are going to have to provide everything that your plant needs; citrus have some specific micro-nutrient requirements. I see nothing in the Jobe's product that disturbs me too much, though it does not have micro-nutrients, also called miner elements. Fish emulsion could assist in providing some key elements, when used in conjunction with your Jobe's. HOWEVER! It really isn't intended for container culture. There are no directions that I see on the label as to dose and frequency. Another aspect that is troublesome is that I can see how repeated use of this product would muddy up your potting mix....fill the so important pore spaces with fine particles. If you were looking for a product with a high Nitrogen analysis, you'll have to go with something other than your 'organic' products. Lots of container hobbyists resort to the commercial soluble fertilizers, while still using using organic methods for the rest of the plant care. I'm not saying that you should, but just be aware that you will have to keep up with the fert. in order to provide your citrus with what it needs. Another factor in the yellowing 'may' be the potting medium. Again, container culture is entirely different that growing in situ. Garden soil or compost added to a perfect good potting medium can result in a mucky, slow-to-drain mixture. Roots can function in that kind of environment, which is why we have learned to provide a potting mix that remains coarse textured and porous. I may not be the only one that would love to see you re-pot your plant entirely. I'd also like to warn you that moisture meters are notoriously inaccurate. Most of us have learned to rely on the most sophisticated digital equipment we have....our fingers. ;-)

It is a Meyer; so it is sensitive to significant changes in light. If you dramatically change the light conditions of a Meyer, it will drop some/most/all of its leaves to be replaced later with leaves better suited to the new light conditions. Re-potting will also cause some transplant shock; so it may be best to delay that until it adjusts to the new light. Do not fertilize your new tree, when you re-pot it; the absence of fertility will cause the roots to grow seeking nutrients; and after the roots grow, new leaves and shoots will grow; and that is the time to begin regular fertilization. If you are going to delay re-potting, it might be good to give it a little fertilizer in its current pot and wait for new growth to begin before re-potting.

You could just leave them in the clay pot and place those clay pots into decorative plastic containers with holes as I do. John's right, I found that many of my trees did not perform well when nights got too cold in clay. They never rotted because I use a porous mix but they most certainly had growth issues during all the months but summer unless they were kept in a very warm room which I do not when they came in. Root rot is not caused from too much moisture, but from a lack of oxygen to the root zone which most heavy compacted mixes will prevent. If you are growing that tree in a very good mix that allows oxygen exchange and helps keep the roots warmer on cold nights it should recover..If you want to see an even faster recovery during the shorter days, provide extra lights and warm conditions...) Root rot can not be caused by just cold, but poorly oxygenated roots combined with cold which is why many use use a porous mix or a small pot just big enough for the root ball when using a high quality bagged mix..

It has long ago been proven putting rocks in the bottom of a container is a bad idea. Doing so raises the perched water table higher into the container and the tree's root system As to your soil test results, the nitrogen should be high, the phosphorous should test rather low and the potassium should be high. Below I have posted a link showing citrus with a potassium deficiency. https://www.google.com/search?q=potassium+deficiency+citrus&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS900US900&oq=potassium+deficiency+in+citrus+leaves&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0.27068j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-B AND https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/citrus/nutrient-deficiencies/potassium-deficiency-on-mandarin-citrus/