Yo Ken, if your still around your up on this one. Far as Composites go I am with the Larry/whoever We are for the most part. Composites are really no longer using recycled material because there is just not enough of it so most of the raw stuff is virgin,the energy used to make composite is an enviro no no, when its time to remove the project composite is not real big on bio degrade its tricky to burn shreading it would be silly. Bottom line composites are not so enviro freindly. Info like that might suggest its not all that good to clean it either, with anything. I dont agree>> composites will out last Ipe, left to go silver/gray Ipe is as close to no maintance as a person can get. With the softer composites like Choice/MoistureShield even trex= tjunk I have found a coat or two of TWP 116 seals up the decking,locks in the color and keeps mold,mildew,stains from causing major problems. Of course not needing to do this is the reason the Wallet goes for composite in the first place. I my own self dont like composites at all for the reasons stated in several posts here and on other sites. Welcome aboard Larry!!! Sorry I dident understand your intent at the begining . John

Renovxpt - Thank you for your response and attention to my concerns. There have been many aspects of this process that I have had to wonder about and have tried to figure if they were just a day in the life of pool construction or if I have somehow gotten the short end of the pool building stick. Given that I am still bound by my contract as there is no out for sheer sloppiness, I would prefer not to reveal the pool company until my pool is completed. The people I have spoken with who used this company were all very happy, hence my decision to go with them; however, every job is different. I am by no means trying to protect the pool company, but myself. Pool builders are human, and as I mentioned before I don't want to tick off my pool builder and have even more unnecessary delays and mistakes. I just want to know what should be done and what's right or wrong about the process. I don't want remedies or a breach of contract claim or a fight with my pool builder, I just want a beautiful pool that my family can enjoy for years to come. Which is why I have come to the experts on this forum to guide me through the process, so I can somewhat supervise what my pool builder isn't. For all wannabe pool owners, I am sure my experience is not the norm (or at least I hope), but do your homework, not just on the pool builder but on pool basics. Know what you want and where you want it and be sure to discuss it with your pool builder. Some details may seem minor, but if they are important to you, make sure your builder knows this (and has communicated this to the crew actually doing the work) in advance. Advance communication goes a long way in making sure you get the final product you're looking for. I look forward to posting more pictures of the progress, but other than the blocks under the re-bar that was added on Thursday, there is nothing new to show. I am waiting for the plumber to come to pre-plumb the pool and the inspector to inspect the electrical bonding. Is there anything else I should confirm is done prior to gunite?

Hello firsthome, All the information you need and products formulated to do your job and give you professional results are located there. I got my first report today from a gentelman in New York that was estatic with the results of using the Restore-A-Deck cleaning system and Baker's Gray Away sealer. Application is simple and as I mentioned you would be very happy with your results. One note: The R-A0-D cleaner is a blend of seven detergents, builders and surfactants. Straight sodium percarbonate is not the most effective cleaner by itself and oxalic acid by itself is a bit harsh for wood. It chokes me if I am around it. Also straight oxalicx acid has none of the neccessary builders to carry it deeper into the wood alowing maximum pH balance. As with anything, the right tools for the job. If you have any specific questions I have a message board on my website and you may also contact customerservice@restore-a-deck.com Here is a link that might be useful: R-A-D Cleaners and Sealers

Hi Scott, Yeah, I thought of that, but we sanded off sticky residue on a sub floor once, and it totally gummed up the sander. This residue stays moist due to the heat and water it is exposed to. DH said scrape it, but I am afraid of doing damage to the wood. I was hoping someone might have had some experience in a product or chemical that would remove the glue. Regarding the latex paint - I am thinking it won't hold up with all the moisture. Whatever we do, I really don't want to have to be doing it again the next year. I'd like it to last a few years. I told DH that I just want to put peel and stick vinyl tile over it - I was thinking we could even put it over the glue since we want it sticky anyway. And, I was thinking we wouldn't even have to remove the other vinyl. The only thing is that the deck is only 21" wide, and most tiles are 12" square, so we would end up having to purchase twice the amount of tile to cover it. Lynne