Is this clover in my St. Augustine??
Debo214
8 years ago
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Can my St. Augustine come back?
Comments (9)I found this place just 30 minutes from me: TurfGrass America. The lady there said that this would work best for our area: http://www.turfgrassamerica.com/iProduct.aspx?ProdID=126 St. Augustine Del Mar , description at the bottom of this note. It says vigorous, I'll have to find out what that means exactly. $170 for a pallet...which if it can do every 5 feet would be enough I think. I'm on a 2 year schedule so I know it'll eventually get there. Yes, it is a big lawn and I am worried about the water. I'm considering either rainwater collection and/or reverse osmosis from a nearby creek! St. Augustine DelMar® Stenotaphrum secundatum DelMar® St. Sugustine DelMar® St. Augustine is a vigorous, dark emerald green, medium-coarse textured lawn grass. It is one of the most cold tolerant varieties of St. Augustine making it a great choice in colder climates such as Dallas/Ft. Worth, and has very good shade tolerance. It also grows well in full sun. DelMar® turns golden brown in its dormancy. DelMar® tests at the top of National testing in overall quality among St. Augustines. DelMar® is the highest ranking cold tolerant, St. Augustine Decline Disease Free St. Augustine grass available. DelMar® St. Augustine is a vigorous, dark emerald green, medium-coarse textured lawn grass. It is one of the most cold tolerant varieties of St. Augustine making it a great choice in colder climates such as Dallas/Ft. Worth, and has very good shade tolerance. It also grows well in full sun. DelMar® turns golden brown in its dormancy. DelMar® tests at the top of National testing in overall quality among St. Augustines. DelMar® is the highest ranking cold tolerant, St. Augustine Decline Disease Free St. Augustine grass available. Area: 1, 2, 3, & 4 Intended Use: Residential & Commercial Availability: Sod Mowing Height: 3" Optimum...See MoreAdvice for improving my neglected St. Augustine lawn?
Comments (7)Good point about the shade. Can you post a mid day picture taken from, say, across the street, showing how much shade you get? Generally St Augustine will spread about 2 inches per week when the temps are in the 70s if everything is going well. You applied a chemical fertilizer waaaaaay too early even for the Woodlands. I just read Randy Lemmon's website recommendations. At first it sounded fine, but he gets into preventive treatments for disease, which I STRONGLY disagree with. Your soil requires a healthy population of beneficial fungi to be healthy. Treating it for no reason kills off the beneficial fungi and destroys the soil biology. Then looking at the rest of his suggestions it appears he's selling fertilizers just like Trugreen is. He's just not applying it for you. And he's selling far too much. Growing great St Augustine is really easy. Water deeply (1 inch all at one time) but infrequently, mulch mow at the mower's highest setting every 1-2-3 weeks (depending on how fast it's growing, fertilize once in early May (for the Woodlands) and again on Labor Day and Thanksgiving. You do not need to core aerate. As you pointed out it's hard work. You can do a much better job by spraying the lawn with shampoo at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet followed by deep watering. Then 3 weeks later you can reapply if you think the soil has not become soft enough. I sprayed mine in 2012 and after a rain like today it's almost too soft to walk on without turning your ankle. If you want to get rid of weeds, wait until April and spot spray the weeds with an atrazine product. Be careful to read the directions 2 times. You should only spray atrazine once a year so make it count. It will kill just about everything except the St Augustine in 3 weeks. The odd thing about spraying it is you have to walk backwards so you don't walk through the stuff you sprayed. Atrazine is not a friendly chemical, hence these warnings. After a decade or so of doing these lawn care forums I'm willing to go out on a limb and proclaim that most people do not water properly. I mentioned deep and infrequent. Deep is 1 inch all at once. Infrequent depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s you only need to water once a week. Yes, even in the Woodlands. And yes, even in Phoenix. With temps in the 80s deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70 you can water once a month. This is probably the most important part of lawn care. Once you get the water controlled, then the mowing and chemicals (or organics) will work better for you. I have become full organic and have seen some benefits. If you want to continue with full chemical fertilizers, I would suggest at least once a year you apply an organic fertilizer like corn meal or alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). These materials feed the microbes living in the soil and make everything work better. These are quite often all it takes to make poor soil healthy again....See MoreCan anyone identify this grass growing in my St Augustine lawn
Comments (10)My house was on the back of a 1-acre lot on the edge of town. The only tall grass was back by the house, so you had to stop and look kinda hard to see that the grass was that tall. If you were going to be offended, you had to stop and make a big deal out of it. When it's all the same height, it still looks manicured, especially at a distance. Well it turns out there was an ordinance against eyesore lots. The ordinance had words to the effect that you could not have piles of junk with weeds, grass, or plants growing 18 inches high. We all know what this ordinance is there for - so people will not toss their junk on the street and let grass and weeds grow up through it. I did not have piles of junk. I could walk down my street and find at least 5 other houses with piles of trash and weeds growing up through them for 6 months or more. The problem with my house is that it used to belong to a prominent lady in local politics and the church. She was one of those "GET OFF MY LAWN" people who took exceptional pride in the appearance of the yard. She passed away and it went to hell. A guy bought the house to rent the rooms and I bought from him. He let half the lawn die completely. All this happened so fast that the neighbors and friends of the original lady seriously resented my "letting the lawn go." So I was selected for one-time enforcement of the ordinance. I showed up at a city hall meeting and convinced them they needed to print a lot more signs and enforce the rules everywhere in town. They did that and quickly overwhelmed the enforcement employees. I also took issue with the word, plants, in the ordinance. Strict wording of the ordinance would prohibit any plants taller than 18 inches. Everyone has plants taller than that. I started mowing the lawn down to 17 inches to test my skills at passive aggression. A year later they rewrote the ordinance taking the plant/grass/weed height down to 12 inches. So I mowed at 11 inches. Mowing that high takes a string trimmer and actually goes pretty fast - much faster than mowing with a mower. So it was nice for awhile and then not so much fun, but I did learn a lot about lawn care....See MoreWeeds overrunning my St. Augustine grass.
Comments (23)5 INCHES? Yikety yikes! I used to be in the finish grading biz with my brother in law. He was the tractor driving pro with me doing the detail work up against the buildings. Look at your last picture - see the area where the shovel is? There is about 2 inches TOO MUCH soil right there sloping up to 4 inches too much soil over by the concrete slab. The part of the house which sticks outward away from the slab at the base is called the sill. There is supposed to be 4 inches visible below the sill of the house to ensure you don't get rot and a termite invasion. The sill is made of wood, so when it is buried under soil or mulch or what have you, you are asking for moisture and related problems. Just for grins, lets say you have 4 inches too much soil over an area of 60 feet by 30 feet. That amounts to 22 cubic yards too much soil. We're talking about a big 18-wheeler load of TOO MUCH soil which should be hauled away. I'm going to recommend you get some professional landscapers to come take a look at your situation. You might look for a professional grader also. The grader is not in the landscaping business and might have a different perspective on the situation. In any case, whoever looks at this, the preferred equipment for grading or regrading is a tractor with a box blade on it. Landscapers call it a landscaper's blade. Here's a picture. They make blades for skid steers and Bobcats, but those machines have too small a wheelbase and too high a center of gravity to do the work quickly. A tractor driver can do 5 acres in a morning while a Bobcat driver might take weeks to do 5 acres....See MoreDebo214
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