Calshaye - I think to identify the problem we need to see the pics of your algae and Powdery Mildew. Something doesn't ring right. Powdery mildew on perlite? I can imagine some fuzzy mold on perlite, but not PM. PM looks like somebody sprinkled your leaves with fine white powder. You will not be able to see it on perlite no matter what. If it is a fuzzy mold, not PM - it is harmless - and replacing the soil on the surface is probably the max you need to do. Algae - if you have it - no reasonable amount of Physan is going to kill it. Very concentrated Physan probably will - but your plants will be killed first. It is mostly harmless, it consumes the fertilizer to some extent and it is absolutely bad if you are trying to grow something from seeds.It will choke them. otherwise - replacing the top layer of the soil is probably the most you need to do - or just leave it alone. How much fertilizer you put in your water? What is the brand of your 7:7:7? It would be really helpful if you take pics, if you have trouble posting them here - send them directly to me - if you click on my name - Gardenweb will give an option to send an email. Good Luck and so far do not do anything. Irina

I floated some old seeds in warm water a few weeks ago.I have roots forming. Don't know what method work better, but this one let's me see what is going on.Pretty cool! Theresa Here's an excerpt from the amaryllis forum. "CALIFORNIA METHOD OF GERMINATING AMARYLLIS SEED" Select a clear glass container with as much surface available as possible. Fill 2/3 with water. Begin with very warm, but not hot, water. Float each amaryllis seed on the surface, either side up. They should not touch, but they may drift to touching and there's no real harm done. Put the container in a place with strong light but not in direct sun. The non-viable seed will sink to the bottom and may be removed. After a few days, each viable seed will put down a white root. When the root is a half-inch or so long, prepare pots with your choice of potting mix. You may make a community pot with several seeds in it, or prepare one pot for one seed. I prefer the latter because you do not have to transplant again nearly as soon. Poke a hole in the potting mix and gently put the white root into the mix, leaving the seed flat on the surface. Place mix around root. Water gently. Place flats with pots in strong light, but not yet sunlight. In a few days you will see a grasslike blade arising from each leaf. Gradually move pots into stronger light. Ultimately, place the pots in the strongest light available, but only early morning or late afternoon sun. The amaryllis will form tiny bulbs that increase as time goes on. A weak fertilizer (Peters 20-20-20 is fine, but diluted from usual strength) may be given every 10 days or two weeks. Keep the amaryllis growing right through the winter. They do not need to go dormant until they have a rather large bulb. Sometimes a bloom can occur in as little as 18 months, but more normally, blooms occur from 18 months to 3 years. You need move the small amaryllis into larger pots only when they really get potbound. Even then moving them into a four-inch pot will suffice for several years. If the seed are good when you begin, there will be nearly 100% germination with this method. If you keep them moist, but not wet, they will continue to grow and thrive during the crucial first few months. Drying out is not good for the very young plants. They may also be grown successfully under fluorescent lights for the first year or so. This method floats seed until the root is developing and some folks will float till leaves are growing. Some just soak overnight then plant. One item I have always been told is that the seeds viability is short and the sooner planted the higher the germination. Store in the fridge if you need to hold them for any length of time. The Clemson link under the Slicing Bulbs topic will help with ideas also plus it gives recommended fertilizer rates for the babies.

I know this forum is from 2009 ` but just in case you are still struggling with white baseball pants not coming clean - the next best thing to "SlideOut" is "White Brite" You should be able to purchase in grocery store - if not Walmart/Target. My sons has played ball for 15 years and still playing University Ball - just soak in Hot Water with a couple of scoops of White Brite. Check the pants every couple of hours - rub the areas - material against material - you should see results quite quickly. I always wash them separately unless I have something else that is dingy white that is not special - in Hot Water. Some material is thicker than others - like Victory pants - and they need a little extra love and scrub - they will not yellow as long as you do not use bleach in the wash as well - 15 years and each pair was still white - it will take the colour out of "coloured fabric so be careful. Mother's unite against red clay and grass stains

I agree that it's the orangy-gold-yellowy paint that seems to be throwing everything off. I wonder what a warm blue might do for the room? It may be a bit tricky to get the right shade - you need enough warmth for the cabinets, but your counter reads slightly cooler. With the garnets that are in your counter, you could pick up the reddish-wine color and use that as an accent...that can work well with a blue. Usually with colors it seems like it's more about getting the right undertones rather than the right color family. You've got oak cabinets - I'm assuming they aren't going anywhere for a while, so you need to make peace with them. I think that with the right paint color, you can make the cabinets and the granite work. There is always the gel-stain option and if changing them I'd probably look that route. I don't think that painting the oak is a good idea since it tends to look like...painted oak. And that's a look that I really don't care for. You mentioned that the ceiling is changing - does that mean that you're putting in some can lighting as well as the pendants? I like the linear tiles...but not with your cabinets. Their style is more contemporary/transitional than what I think your cabinets can muster...the cabinets have a much more traditional look so you might do better with something a bit more classic in the tile line.