deedles: Allow me to make a very different suggestion. As in your sample photo of a "traditional powder room design," hang a picture above the toilet; it will break up the space to that 9' ceiling. Then, in the ceiling receptacle that your husband already has cut out, install a fixture that looks something like the one in the link below (the color/finish is your choice, of course). Make sure that the fixture takes a standard medium base par20 light bulb -- many such fixtures require that you use only very expensive, hard to get, specialty light bulbs that also burn watts like there's no tomorrow. Fit the fixture with a 40-watt equivalent indoor LED flood light bulb similar to the Lowe's house brand Utilitech, Lowe's item # 338804, Model # LPAR20DM/LED (which consumes less than 8 watts in operation) and aim the flood at the picture on the back wall above the toilet. The reflected light will diffuse, giving a soft (not harsh) glow, and the angle of the primary light for the person sitting on the toilet will be perfect over-the shoulder for reading. Here is a link that might be useful: Suggestion; feel free to vary

We placed the glass at about the height that the shower head comes out of the wall (which is high as we are super tall folks). Our glass will be 80" above our 6" high curb. When the glass guy came to look (he came when I wasn't there, just with DH- that was worrisome!) he was looking at the top of the door trim, then the top of the recessed cabinets as possible guides- but when DH pointed out dutifully where I wanted it, and why, and where the deco trim was, and the grout lines... he said, Oh, yeah, that works too. But I thought those were all good ideas- it never even occurred to me to match my door trim to my medicine cabinet heights.... like I said, we're tall, the mirrors needed to be high so we could finally see our whole heads without bending our knees ;-)

Posted by mydreamhome (My Page) on Fri, Jun 1, 12 at 15:13 Dietitian - I don't find the shower cold at all without the door. I think the biggest thing people think about is when they step out of a walled shower or pull open the curtain and the cooler air outside of the shower hits your body that has just been under somewhat hot - hot water. Anyone would feel at least a little cold in that scenario. But when the shower is an open design, you don't get that blast of cool air hitting you making you feel cold. Our builder kept telling us that it would be cold without the door and wanted us to install a fan with a heater--we declined & are glad we did as it wasn't needed. Bob4321 - Our shower is 4x7, the bench is 12" deep leaving total floor space of 4x6. I would consider 4' to be the minimum width to shower comfortably if your showerhead(s) will be on the longer walls. In ours, the spray hits the floor just shy (~6-10") of the opposite wall. You can go narrower, but it will be a little tight. 5' wide would allow a wheel chair to turn around in the shower which is a nice feature (my parents have that in case one is needed as they age). @mydreamhome: I know we've communicated before on this topic but am always appreciative of the details you provide on your shower! A couple of follow-up questions: 1) Are you saying that a person won't be as susceptible to the change in ambient air temperature - when stepping out of the shower - because they are already exposed to it already in a doorless shower? 2) Noticed your hand & angled shower heads are mounted on 'width' side wall. Water would bounce between the 4' width, but does it ever go over the curb at the opposite 'short' side? - Ours is going to be 4'x6' (WxL) with a side entrance & no seat, so I am wondering if I should worry about water jumping the curb.

Romy, I'd have to agree with the shops opinions that you need at least a 1 3/8" rod for a 10' rod. While I seriously dislike big for the sake of Big, and have never liked the oversize furniture trends put forth by the PotteryBarn type places, I believe that you do need to keep your rod in proportion to the size of the room and the length of the rod. Honestly I'd probably be looking at a 2" rod for your room. a 10' rod is a long rod, and you don't want it to look like a pencil. How wide is your trim? Remember that with a round rod you're not seeing 2", or 1 3/8", you're seeing whatever the face is that is visible, and if my math skills were a lot better I'd be able to tell you. I do love the Titanium finish, and I like the Amboise finial better than the pine cone one. Your panels are fixed right, you don't intend to open and close them? When you buy the rings make sure to buy the rings that have another little eye ring screwed into the bottom of the ring, as that is necessary to put the hook into and allow the decorative ring to still hang vertically, not go crooked. You can buy wood rings and paint them yourself then screw in those eyelets, but I'd really recommend buying the ones that go with the rod you choose. Then how much of the ring shows is totally dependent on where you put the pin in the pleat. If you put the pin half way up the pleat so that the turn of the hook is just below the top edge of your drapery you'll get the look in your inspiration pic. You don't need to hire someone to hang them for you. **Make sure to put the pin in the pleat, then measure from the inside of the curve on the hook to the hem to determine how high to hang the rod. Then measure from the screweye on the bottom of the ring to the floor. You'd be surprised how many people who hang their own forget about the height of the pins and the length of the drop of the ring.** Thanks for the link to ParisTexas rods. I'm not finding any provision for curved pieces for bay windows. I'll give them a call after the first of the year.