Another price vs counter thread...
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
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Shaws farm sink vs. holes in countertop vs. faucet types...
Comments (11)Every single one of you has given me excellent advice here, thank you! Artemis78 and pinch_me - yes I've been planning/hoping for a wall-mounted faucet, along with the idea of being sure to have enough extra tile to fill it in later should I go the deck-mounted route in the [hopefully distant] future. I asked my contractor and he said it's no big deal to just block off that wall plumbing at a later date and have it re-routed to the deck should I change my mind later. That seems like the best compromise. Now it's just back to trying to find a wall-mounted faucet that has a sprayer option and isn't too obnoxiously large. The 3 options appear to be: the kind that have the external hose that has a wall-mounted cradle (if that's the right word) or hook, but then the hose just dangles in the sink; or the Jaclo Original Steam Valve wall faucet which has the pull-off hose (camouflaged to look at a short distance as if no hose is sitting atop the gooseneck), but the goosenecks are very high - possibly too high; or getting a solid stainless steel wall-mounted faucet (so far it's either Jaclo or Kohler's HiRise brands only, that I can find anyway) and then get the new Kohler independent HiRise side spray that's unfortunately deck-mounted but would match either of those brands nicely cause it too is solid stainless steel in the same offered finishes (brushed or polished). But putting a hole in the deck seems to defeat the purpose. The problem with the Kohler HiRise wall faucet is that it's very plain looking and w/ my intended marble subway tile backsplash, I thought it needed porcelain levers to fit in better. The Jaclo offers GORGEOUS porcelain (as well as cross/wheel) handles in both white and black with a thin silver (stainless) strip on them even. It's an amazing touch - especially the unpredictably attractive black levers. I just gotta determine whether that's just too darn high a gooseneck for my tiny space. At the moment I'm thinking that or else throwing in the towel and getting a single-hole deck-mounted faucet to save money since I'm going so far over budget...now that I know they have hole covers anyway (should I switch to something different, later)! :)...See MoreAny decent CounterTop microwaves in 2016?
Comments (10)I also heard that one of the Korean companies was making microwaves. Sharp and Panasonic for sure. All microwaves degrade from the jump. The magnetron (is that what it's called? Too early for me..) degrades with use. Search the forum, and you'll get good explanations from Kas about this. Investing a ton of money in a microwave, therefore, doesn't make a lot of sense. OTOH, that part will last a heck of a lot longer than a few years, if you get a kitchen grade microwave (as opposed to a desktop cutsiepoo unit for which I have no data at all). The thing that makes so many microwaves "disposable" is wear and tear. If you have family members who SLAM the door, PUNCH the buttons, etc., and constantly fiddle with it, starting and stopping and opening and closing, and just using it a lot for one mug of hot water, the box is going to wear out long before the magnetron. If you're nice to it, and use it a couple of times per day rather than all day long, it could last 20 years or more. One of the things you can get with a more expensive unit, along with looks and snooty badge, is potentially a sturdier housing. It is also potentially possible to have a built-in unit repaired (I can't imagine it being worthwhile to repair a freestanding unit). There are people who do microwave repairs and they do make replacement magnetrons. The only situation where that seems like a possible good idea, however, is when you have the beautiful built-in that matches your beautiful kitchen which still looks like new. Re convection: The initial convection microwaves didn't work well as ovens, and also didn't meet the expectations of the buyers. That was before convection ovens themselves were well understood in the US. In the time I've been researching appliances and hanging out here (coming up on ten years), the general tone from users of them has gone from not worth the money to acceptable second oven. Again, I don't know if that's a change in quality or in user expectations. Convection ovens cook with circulated hot air. They do a good job roasting. Great for "cooking" or "baking" a casserole. Even baking a loaf of bread. For small things, like cookies, a lot depends on the pan, the cookie and whether or not it really wanted bottom heat. For most, it'll do an acceptable job. Some outliers really do better with a proper baking mode. Egg rising things like angel cakes and soufflés really don't like being blown about. If you can arrange the angle of the pan to the blower just right, it's possible, but still iffy. The heated air can also bounce off the surfaces in unexpected ways leading to uneven cooking/browning, contravening the evenness that you otherwise get from the movement of the air. It's likely that there are still poor ones out there, especially at the lower end. There must also be good ones. Just familiarize yourself with the features and abilities of the unit, and use that to sift through the consumer reviews to know whether it was the oven or the user, and make your judgment from there....See MoreTime-sensitive - shopping for counter tops
Comments (13)I am a fabricator. WE bid from cabinet drawings all the time assuming various standard price categories. You can't really compare bids until the bidders are quoting a specific color of a specific supplier since the price paid by the fabricator varies significantly per sq. ft. from different brands. I always recommend the customer determine the look they want and then identify colors that meet their needs. Multiple options will always lead to lower prices. In my area the customer does not "pay for the slabs" and expect me to fabricate. When we supply the slabs we are responsible for whatever material related issues arise including the occasional breakage due to weak points in the stone. If I get unacceptable material from a supplier I can reject it or get a replacement for free if the material turns out to be defective. This can happen even with quartz as occasionally a quartz slab can have residual stresses from curing and crack when being sawn or processed on the CNC. My material my problem. Your material your problem. For this reason we only work with customer supplied material on a "billable hours" basis and do not guarantee against breakage. A competent fabricator will ask questions to understand your objectives for color and style and then work with you to meet your needs....See MoreI'm so frustrated! Quartz counter-top installation problems again
Comments (51)Here are a some pics and my dilemma. Keep in mind this is my old fridge...new one comes today! Here is how we ended up with this: I have never had an enclosed fridge so didn't think about the peninsula dying into panels or how deep panels were going to be. I "semi" designed the new footprint and took it to Lowe's where the KD took over. (yes---I know......) Bought Schuler plywood with maple fronts cabinets. Although the kitchen designer had the model number of the fridge we were buying, which is a full-size, she designed the kitchen with 24" deep panels. She knew I was trying to have the look of an enclosed fridge. Being that I've never had an enclosed fridge, it was something I just didn't think of until the install started. Evidently she put a counter-depth in the design program because the elevation sketches she gave me showed an enclosed fridge. "Luckily" the panels actually came in wrong and were cut at only 23" for some strange reason and the installer caught it right away when looking over everything. Otherwise he probably would have installed them and I would be stuck. So called Lowe's to reorder the panels and somehow in all this it suddenly dawned on me that a full size fridge was going to be deeper and require deeper panels. I thought "no problem! Yay I can order them at 30!" By this time the KD had quit her job due to the pandemic. The other KD didn't know what was going on so we called in the Schuler rep. She was the one who immediately told me that those 30" panels would be sticking out in front of the peninsula. She asked if we could move the peninsula forward since the other side is an overhang for seating, but we couldn't since it would bottleneck the entrance into the kitchen down to under 36" and getting rid of an existing bottleneck was one of the reasons for the re-design to start with. So we had a dilemma. We cannot go down to a counter depth fridge which was the other option. What I decided was to split the difference and order 27" refrigerator panels. The fridge without doors is 29.5" so I will have about 3" of the side of the fridge sticking out which I don't like, but while I want my kitchen to look beautiful, I value the functionality too. The old fridge that you see in the pic sticks out a total of 32" The new fridge will stick out 34 with doors but without handles (4.5" of that is doors that would stick out anyway) Here's the really complicated part....we will be installing decorative panels on the end of the fridge as we have them on all the cabinets. This is how you enter the kitchen and I don't want that big blank space there next to the peninsula. The panels should be installed with just 1/4" reveal. I posted a photo below of how the panels look that are already installed on the side of the pantry that adjoins to a 17" high window seat. Luckily those face the opposite way from the fridge panels so you will never see both at the same time. I also posted photos of us holding up panels on the side of the fridge (they are NOT the right size panels...we have to order those still---we just used these to look at the right edge as to how wide to make the panels.) Also keep in mind we can remove the quartz backsplash piece if that would look better. That was not originally planned...the panels were going to sit directly on top of the countertop. So do we order the panels with just the 1/4" reveal to match the panels in the rest of the kitchen? Or, as the Schuler rep recommended, order the panels so they are the same width with the countertop, leaving about 1 3/4" reveal on the right side, but then your eye follows the countertop all the way up. I asked the countertop templater guy if I should just lengthen the overhang on the kitchen side of the peninsula to 2.5" to bring it out to within 1/4" of the fridge panel but he said no....I'm now thinking I should have insisted on it. Especially since we have full overlay cabinets that already make the overlay look very small since the 1.5" planned overhang is measured from the box, not the front of the drawers. Note how small the overhang looks to the drawers. And then of course, they had templated for a 1.5" overhang and I only got 1.25" UGH! Every quarter inch there would have made the reveal on the side of the fridge less. Suggestions appreciated! I'm hoping that I will eventually make peace in my mind with this issue and won't notice it but it is driving me crazy right now. I think of all the things that screwed up just because of this one error by the KD that I didn't catch and I am beating myself up for it!...See More- 8 years ago
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