Hi BrandonD- I donÂt believe the copper or oil will help with the dreaded CAR. My Red Delicious trees get CAR pretty bad as well. I would think your only real option here would be Immunox (also goes by Myclobutanil, Nova, Eagle, Rally, etc), though IÂm not sure what stage your trees are at, nor how much damage theyÂre showing. In my conversations with others, I believe it has 96 hour post-infection effectiveness, but if youÂre actually showing symptoms, it may be too late. That said, perhaps a spray of it will put the brakes on any further damage? The problem is going to be finding it. I ran into the same thing you just did last year. By the time it arrived 9 days later, it was really too late. But, at least I had it for this year. I wasnÂt able to find it at the local stores (Home Depot) or nurseries. All I could find was the "Immunox Plus" which also contains an insecticide NOT rated for fruit. The good news is that I donÂt think that CAR usually kills a tree in one year. It just sucks it energy, damages leaves and any fruits. Just get prepared for next year. CARÂ welcome to my nemesis. -Glenn Here is a link that might be useful: Amazon: Bic Superstore: Immunox

Thanks for the responses. Who knew that two trees together would form a fungus. Sheez! :). I do have two ground coverish type juniper plants in the back yard that will now meet the green trash can. Everything that I read today seem to point only to juniper type trees/shrubs.Cypress trees are not related I hope....have tons of those around. Thank you Glenn. We have been working really hard on our yard. When we purchased the house two years ago it was nothing but 1/2 acre of 5 foot high weeds with absolutely zero trees/bushes. We have since planted around 40 fruit trees and 20 or so trees. This is our first time with a garden and a mini orchard. Just kinda thru ourselves into it and are taking as it comes.Is a lot of work but we (I) LOVE it. Again thank you two for answering my worry! Jennifer

I am going to assume you didn't know about Cedar Apple Rust before you planted the trees, but just for the benefit of others who might be wanting to plant apples or crabapples, the best advice is to think long and hard before you do it. Because cedar trees are widespread in our state and very invasive, it is very hard, if not almost impossible, to grow healthy apples and crabapples here. I love apples, but have lived here for 10 years and never planted one because I don't want to deal with cedar apple rust. Since you've already planted the trees, though, you have to deal with it. So, in answer to your questions: I don't think it is possible to control it on the cedars themselves. What you can do is remove the cedar apples (the fungal growths, also known as galls) before they form horns. If they have already formed horns it is too late. And, if there are cedar trees within about 2 miles of you, the disease can be carried through the air, so removing the cedar apples from the infected cedar trees near you may help a little, but it won't prevent airborne cedar apple disease spores from infecting your plants. You can spray your crabapples with a fungicide that is labeled for use on crabapples for the prevention/control of cedar apple rust, but the spraying has to be done at very specific temperatures and at very precise times. I believe the spores transfer most readily when temperatures are in the 60s. The fungicide most readily available to homeowners for Cedar Apple Rust on crabapples is cholorothalonil, most often sold as Daconil, and often used by vegetable gardeners, for example, to prevent Early Blight on tomatoes. I think you also can use a different fungicide called Bayleton. Just read and follow the label directions IF it is not too late, weatherwise and temperaturewise, in your area. Even though your crabapple trees are new to you, they actually are several years old by the time you buy them, so the application of a fungicide following label directions should not harm them at all. Just be sure you dilute the fungicide and apply it as directed. The entire life cycle of cedar apple rust from cedar tree to its transferrence to apple trees takes almost 2 years. It is an ever-present threat. It is the reason you don't see vast orchards of apples in Oklahoma. Of the two crabapples you plante, I think Prairiefire is considered highly disease-resistant and Profusion less so. However, disease-resistant only means the tree has some resistance, not immunity, and even disease-resistant trees can and do get diseases. Cedar Apple Rust is the main cause of rust on apple trees, but you also have to watch out for the closely related Cedar-Quince Rust and Cedar-Hawthorne Rust. They are controlled/prevented by the same fungicides. Please understand though that even the regular application of fungicide is no guarantee the trees won't become infected. Understand also that cedar apple rust is not something that will be a problem only once. If is an issue for your trees one year, it probably will be an issue for them every year when the temperatures are in the precise range that allows the spores to transfer and infect apple trees. Only you can decide if you want to deal with the cedar-apple rust disease every year, or if you'd rather cut your losses and replace your crabapple trees with some other kind of tree that is more disease-resistant. Good luck, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Cedar Apple Rust

Hayley, Looks like CAR to me. I also had CAR the first year I planted. Not knowing about it I purchased 8 fruit trees of gala, honeycrisp, grannsmith, red delicious and a 4 in 1 cherry tree. I was very disappointed to see all my trees look like the leaf above. Did some research and found that my property is lined by cedar trees. I thought I would be doomed but after doing some research I decided to go with Immunox it wont do much to save you this year but next year you should get pretty good control of it. I start the spraying prior to the first rain when it is 60 degrees or higher. I apply every 10 days till summer time. It got rid of the CAR 100%. Once the temperature gets warm enough the spores a no longer in the air and your trees will be safe. Good Luck!