Ummmmmmmmmm, no your tile should not be cracked and yes that very much appears to be poor workmanship. Hopefully what you cannot see was done to a higher standard or the fun has just begun.........

Ugh! I had a feeling that I would get this reply. What should I tell the tile guy? Should he replace the cracked tile? Should it all be torn down? This man has been tiling for a reputable contractor for 20+ years, however, mine is a side job! :(

I know that Schluter board was placed before the tile.

Thumbs down on the craftsmanship. Did they use Kerdi as the waterproofing? If yes, then why didn't they use the kerdi valve seal around the shower valve? Yes the bad tiles have to be replaced. He should have used a diamond hole saw and not a flat blade to cut those holes. There's also a difference between 20 years experience and 1 years experience 20 times.

Nuh-uh. Not gonna fly.

I'd be on the phone now.

Not only do you NOT pay him, he should pay You to hire an actual Tile Mechanic to repair this "work."

very unprofessional

If you do something wrong for 20 years. IT"S STILL WRONG. This workmanship is so bad you shouldn't trust him to repair it. Call a professional ASAP. I would not let this guy back in my house or his tools out until you know what you actually have. But it's a "side job" no contract, no building permit no recourse. Maybe you should show him this thread.

I am so sick about this!!! All of your input is very much appreciated and quite unanimous with your opinions. I now have to find truly good tile guy. (I know of a good tile man and wanted to hire him but he wasn't available for months). Unfortunately, I don't have a working knowledge of craftsmen. I will talk to the tile store (not a big box store) where I purchased the tile and ask for their recommendations on professional tile people. Thank you, thank you!

"....I know that Schluter board was placed before the tile....." - kkid

Maybe the Schluter Board flexed. Yet another reason to hate foam backer boards.

The big question now is how do you remove a tile from a foam backer board and make a proper repair. How do you get a 2" overlap?

If the cut edges of the Schluter board where not properly sealed will they be getting soaked?

It is going to take some serious high end skill set to fix these two tiles right. I would be calling Schluter and asking for some direction. Looks tricky.

I agree with measure-twice. I don't think this is a case of hands up throw it all out. the cracked tile is just lazy. The joints lining up is a fundamental problem. It looks like he is going to put a whole lotta caulk in that corner.

I think the corners would have been hidden with a giant bead of chalking like so many people do. Now the real trouble starts. How to remove tile from a flexible backer board and then re tile and maintain a waterproof backer.

I have never seen in done online. None of the Kerdi Board promoters have show cased it. And the instructions to my knowledge offer up no advice.

How do you switch out a tile on a foam backer board? When I do this to my installs I use my grinder, a hammer and a chisel. But of course I have cement board backer boards with proper blocking.

I'm pretty sure that's not a "crack" but a seam where he cut the tile because he didn't have a proper hole saw to cut around the plumbing.

I saw one at my local hardware store yesterday for $35. I'm sure it would be cheaper in the US.

The good news is that it's not grouted yet, so it'll be easier to replace.

I have made all the mistakes this guy has in cutting tile: cracking tiles when I'm cutting something out of the middle, cutting an edge piece too short. The difference is that I throw those tiles out. He needs to replace the tiles around the plumbing holes and the ones that don't butt up to the corner. Also, in photo #3, that top middle tile has 2 cut edges. The edge that abuts the full tile should be a factory edge. THAT one I've NEVER done. And the horizontal lines should connect all the way around the walls. That's tiling 101 as well.

Well, we had another tile man out tonight ( I tried to hire this gentleman in the first place but he wasn't available for several months) and he agreed with the comments and suggestions that all of you have posted. The guy tonight knows how to fix the Schluter product if/when it gets damaged while removing the cracked tiles. The man tonight felt bad for our predicament and kindly agreeded to repair the errors after his regular work day. (We are in quite a predicament, we have a disabled family member here and is spending the summer w/ us and this bathroom needs to be completed ASAP) Unfortunately, there are additional errors that were done by the first tile guy (that i did not show) that the new tile guy will also have to fix. UGH!!! With all the money I am currently spending on remodeling several rooms in this house I feel can not spend the money to have all of the tile removed and buy new again. I'll keep you posted on the repairs and progress. Again, thanks for all of your input!

If it is a tile shower base flood test first before you pay for repairs. If it won't hold water the money for the cosmetic repairs will just be wasted.

"....The guy tonight knows how to fix the Schluter product if/when it gets damaged while removing the cracked tiles...". - weedy acres

Really - How does that get fixed? Did he say? Any part of the Schluter Board that is damaged or sees the fleece removed needs to be repaired and the repair banding needs to overlap by 2". That would mean removing more tiles. If you hit a corner that would mean removing the side tile.

I have never seen this done. I would ask him first how he plans to do it and then call Schluter to see if what he says is true. Or call Schluter yourself and ask them what they recommend. I think the removal of the two cracked tiles would be roughly a 2-3 hour job to do carefully enough.

Excellent point @Creative Tile Eastern CT, I will make sure that this tested.

Hi, I did call Schluter and they said that it could be done. It needs to have a two inch overlap when making the repair. The man doing the tile now has been to Schluter for actual training of their products...fingers crossed.

While it can be done, it may prove to be very difficult. Best to perform a flood test before tiling. And post a few pictures so we can look over your shoulder.

"....Hi, I did call Schluter and they said that it could be done. It needs to have a two inch overlap when making the repair. The man doing the tile now has been to Schluter for actual training of their products...fingers crossed...." - kkid77

They don't teach this in the Kerdi Board training to my knowledge. Removing the tile without breaking the foam is going to be hard. I would be cutting the tile up and taking it out in little 1"x1" pieces. Then of so carefully removing the thin-set.

Did you ask the guy how it broke? The tile. Did he just lean on the wall?

The problem I see is to get a 2" overlap you need to remove the tile and the surrounding tiles. IF (and that is a big if) you damage the foam then you need to remove another tile and possibly another tile. At what point are you better off just starting over? If this is a foam board I think it is going to be tough to not damage it.

Hi, the guy that cracked the tile is gone! When I asked him about the cracks he said that they were no problem!! He did not give me a reason why the tiles were cracked. UGH! Anyway, like I said, he has been removed from the job. The current man is breaking up the tile in small pieces and removing piece by piece.

I know right. That is why I think they need to protect all the foam board from damage. The problem with that is that the foam board needs tile and grout to make it strong. And that when demo'ing tile you add stress to the backer board.

I wonder if you could repair the damaged area with Ardex 8+9.

I think on about one job in seven a tile needs changing. For the struggle of this one possible point - using a foam backer board makes no sense to me.

millworkman - I agree, I am very concerned about the surrounding tiles when achieving the 2" overlap!

I forgot about the fact that you have another tile man. I am really surprised he would even attempt this type of repair due to the golden rule of "he who touches it last owns it"...........

Ha! I think that he feels sorry for us, he realizes the unfortunate situation that we are in!! We initially wanted to hire him but he was unavailable for several months. He understands that we are in a unique situation and the job needs to be completed ASAP. During the summers my brain injured brother comes to live with us and we need this bathroom for him. It was supposed to be completed before he arrived but that didn't happen... :(

Pic 1 is the very definition of s stress riser-related crack. The break starts right at the corner where the grinder cut too far.
I believe that the tile itself probably had internal stresses that were brought to the breaking point by the clumsy square hole made with a grinder. Using a core drill would have eliminated the stress riser (the sharp corner/transition that is a weak spot leading to fracture).
He should invest in some proper tools.
Casey

ups that look very bad. - when the pro think he can make it fast - he has lost - he have to make it twice. there is no posibility to repair. or do you like it?

No, we don't like it, it is being fixed by another tile person.

You better stop the contractor now and kick him off the job and get some legal advice. All of that tile needs to be ripped out and redone. Stevie wonder can see that that is the worst tile job ever. You need to sue this guy, did you check his references. How much did he charge you for that?

I would tear it out and start from scratch with everything. If this is his workmanship imagine what the Schlueter must look like beneath that. Anyways Schlueter only offers a two year limited warranty on their product. You can get a full lifetime guarantee and save yourself a ton of money by using Laticrete's system.