is now the time for early prevention of powdery mildew?
njitgrad
8 years ago
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
8 years agobcomplx
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Gah, powdery mildew
Comments (7)There are about five plants, and I think two are the originals. Those two have a large rootbase. The other three I believe spread from the original and are smaller. There were more plants but I removed some when I took them over since there seemed to be too many too close together. The majority of the long canes are still thinner-- my parents used to just hack them back to keep them from sprawling out into our gangway, so these are growth since I took them over. They're quite long though, some have probably reached 10 feet. I'm not sure what you mean by repeat-- do you mean do they rebloom? If so, no. At least not at any point that I can remember. They were always prolific bloomers though, even back when they were growing wild and mangled yearly by my parents cutting them back. When I took the bed over (it's a small strip bed between the gangway and garage), I dug it out and weeded it (it was a mess of nightshade tangled with a knot of rose canes), detangled the canes and pruned out dead canes, then I made a trellis with wire and nails on the side of the garage, and wove the canes onto the wire. I also mulched the bed and fertilized in the spring with a 10-10-10 time released fertilizer. They grew like mad after that. Since then I added more levels to the trellis. They go up to the top of the garage now. Lots of new growth, and other than the mildew next to no troubles. Last year was the first year I remember them ever having mildew, but it's possible that they did and we just didn't notice the way they were kept before....See Morewhitefly??? Powdery mildew??? Why is nothing working??
Comments (8)Before I offer a bit of info, let me mention that when posting you would better help folks to assist you if you add your zone & geographic area (city or town would be good, along with the state, of course). Your "My Page" listing of "United States" is of no help whatsoever. Don't worry, we will not stalk you. :-) It's powdery mildew on the cucurbits in the first two photos. This has been of epidemic proportions in a large part of the Midwest, in my garden and from what I hear from friends and correspondents in MI, PA and here in OH. Looks like some sort of leaf miners in the last couple pictures, and blight on the tomatoes. Check the links in this earier GW post regarding tomato troubles, linked below. As for the powdery mildew, here is some info from Ohio State: POWDERY MILDEW DISEASES. Many plants are affected by powdery mildew diseases, with different powdery mildew fungi causing the disease on different plants. The most familiar way to recognize powdery mildew diseases is the actual "sign" of the powdery mildew fungus growing on the upper leaf surface. This powdery growth is a combination of asexual spores of powdery mildew fungi in combination with threadlike strands of the fungus called hyphae. The mass of this powdery mildew fungal tissue is visible to the naked eye, but individual spores and fungal hyphae are not; these forms of the fungus, capable of causing infection, are microscopic in size. One of the overwintering forms of the fungus are dark-colored fruiting bodies know as cleistothecia, that are visible as small round objects on leaves, resembling grains of pepper. "Symptoms" (effects on plants from infections) of powdery mildew diseases are sometimes not recognized as being caused by powdery mildew fungi. On a plant like lilac, often symptoms are not apparent - all you see is the powdery white sign of the pathogen. Control involves improving air movement and reducing high relative humidity, to the extent possible, with judicious pruning and plant siting and use of powdery-mildew resistant varieties when available. Also recognize that in many cases the disease causes little harm to plant health, though fungicides may be used when necessary. Common powdery mildew fungicides include: triforine (e.g. Funginex), thiophanate-methyl (e.g. Cleary's 3336), and propiconazole (e.g. Banner). Read and follow the fungicide label carefully when applying to a particular plant. Powdery mildew fungicides can be very effective because the fungal infection by powdery mildew fungi is very superficial compared to most fungal infections, with the fungus only penetrating into the epidermal layer of cells. There are organic preventives (biofungicides) for powdery mildew, too, but as you will read, most, if not all, need to be used before the symptoms develop. See http://www.gardensalive.com/category.asp?c=15 Hope this has been helpful. Here is a link that might be useful: Identifying tomato problems...See Morepreventing powdery mildew??
Comments (2)I understand your question but I'm not sure of the answer. I wonder about coverage using the fine mist of a pump sprayer. I see the spray material bead up and wonder how much good it is doing the new growth. I've been doing this as a hobby (20+ years) and a business (16+ years) and generally I just trust that the funcide is going to work and it does. Although you get finished with you spray job faster and easier with the hose end sprayer you are using more spray material. Just keep that in mind especially if you live in Florida where everything leaches right through our sand....See MoreCame home to powdery mildew(?) now what
Comments (19)Thanks for all the replies. I went out this early morning before work and the large white patches do rub off. The "vein lines" do not rub off. Could it be a combination of powdery mildew and natural markings? I'll try a spray this weekend when I have time. This morning I notice quite a few ants on the plant. Are they going to hurt anything?...See Morenjitgrad
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agobcomplx
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