John, the pesticide mentioned in that very good informational site is Confidor, the brand name one of the many insecticides with Imidicloprid as the active ingredient. It is used as a soil drench because it is systemic. It's much more efficient to have a plant absorb this particular chemical into its system to control pests than to spray over the top. Imidicloprid can be found in a host of pesticides for the systemic control of aphids, mealybugs, whitefly, and scale. Its use, by the way, is well known to increase the population of spider mites and thrips. And before anyone asks...Imidicloprid is one of the very few systemics listed for use on edible crops, including citrus. It's not something that should be used unless you understand the timing of such applications so that the fruit or vegetable can be eaten safely. Again, systemics enter the system of plants, making the sap and other juices toxic to those that might ingest it. Wizzard, an untended scale infestation can kill plants. How quickly that can happen depends upon the species of scale, the species of plant, and the overall vigor of the plant. You chose the best option for your cotoneaster, a horticultural oil. A light spray can really help in getting these pests under control. Scale insects won't be completely killed with one application, but an occasional misting will do the trick. Horticultural oils are something that every plant grower should have on hand, including those who try to grow organically. With oils, it's important to avoid spraying in very warm or very cold temperatures. Gloxinia, horticultural oil is your best bet. Read and follow the directions. Also, I am curious about your kiwi. When kiwi are purchased from a bonafide nursery, it will be clearly labeled as a male OR a female plant. What was the name of the kiwi you purchased? They can be grown in a container for the first year (5 gallon) but won't take kindly to that for much longer than that, I don't think. Don't really know from first hand experience.

Thanks folks- We got the fixed panel installed today, and it looks great. Man it was stressful though!!! I think I drove poor DH crazy with having to stop every few minutes to carefully think through the next step, and arrange wood/towels/bubblewrap on every hard surface in sight! But its in, plumb and square and looks great. UNFORTUNATELY........ the fabricator seems to have sent the wrong hinges for the door. They seem to be the self-closing 90-degree type, and we needed the adjustable ones for the angled door. Of course they are closed until Tuesday, argh!! (This after they also forgot the setting blocks -which I luckily was able to find at a glass store that was open on Saturdays- so I am not sure I will recommend them. We'll see how they handle the hinge thing. Maybe we are just not seeing how they'd adjust, but I dont think so...) Anyway, I should have been showering in my new shower tonight, but looks like I will have to wait another week! On the plus side- we did not upgrade to Starfire glass (it wasn't offered and I did not think to ask) and after reading about it on GW here, I was worried about the green glass color, but it turns out it looks really, really great with the other palette in the room :) Tomorrow: vanity install! lennym: let me see how this company handles the hinge issue and then I'll post about them. They were the cheapest online vendor I found; maybe in this case you get what you pay for? They've been responsive and helpful thus far, though, and I know they are in the process of moving their showroom this weekend, so it may be a one-time honest mistake...

You have valid concerns and we take extra measures to acommodate steam vapor escape by treating the ceiling and/or adjoining painted surfaces outside the shower with usually an oil based primer and sometimes topcoat of paint . Steam rooms require a few things to be just right and if so you shouldnt have excessive release of vapor. Starting with the proper sized generator for the "adjusted cubic ft" A proper glass install with the acceptable tolerances ( we use sweep and bulb gaskets to compensate for minor inaccuracies and zip our steam showers up and then utilize the transom.) A transom smartly placed in relation to the Fan that also needs to be the proper CFM for the room and other hvac concerns,. Our fans are always on a timer, and preferably jumped on the same circuit as the showers interior light. You want the fan on from the start of the shower and remaining on for 30 +/- mins after you get out. I always suggest opening the transom and swinging the shower door IN to the shower when done. On this steamer ceiling we used the existing bathroom fan and planned ahead and had the painter coat our cedar install with sikens marine grade topcoat. Hope that helps a bit in your effort to rectify your concerns.-best

Thank you both. The 2 glass fabricators I have talked with since I posted both said that 1/2" would be overkill, but they will take my money if I really want it. Since the side panels go all the way to the ceiling, they say I do not need anything thicker than 3/8" for structural reasons. I will ask about the mini clips. The regular clips are about 1-3/4" square. Right now, the plan is to use a channel at the bottom for support, which will be hidden by the 1/2" thick tile (plus mortar) butted up on each side of the glass at the curb. There will be clips holding each of the 92" H x 14" wide side panels to the wall (2 clips) and ceiling (1 or 2 clips). I am thinking about using a towel bar/handle on the door instead of a standard handle. It adds extra metal, but I need someplace to hang the bath mat to dry. (I hate to obscure the pretty tile work with a towel hanging on the door, but don't have another good place to put it.)