Have a lot of doubt regarding 5:1:1
vidnand
8 years ago
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vml68
8 years agoRelated Discussions
prolonging a 5:1:1 mix (versus gritty)
Comments (3)Both mixes are exceptional. In the first year, you'll probably see little difference in growth between the two mixes. The Gritty Mix, however, really excels beyond that first year, and is especially suited to woody plants that will spend 1 - 3 years in containers between re-potting...of course, that doesn't absolve you of your re-potting duties if the plants outgrows the container volume in that span of time ;-) 5-1-1 is generally more of a "warm season" mix because it provides more moisture. But, as with the Gritty Mix, it is very adjustable - minor tinkering with the ratios or ingredients can create the perfect amount of moisture retention for your particular climate. To extend the life of 5-1-1: 1) Use an uncomposted bark. 2) Eliminate or reduce the peat moss. 3) Use fine bark dust instead of peat moss for "binding" and moisture retention. 4) Use durable ingredients such as turface, pumice, scoria instead of the peat moss fraction. 5) Use soluble synthetic fertilizer instead of organic fertilizer. The outer limit of my particular long-life 5-1-1 is about 3 years, especially if the mix is exposed to the elements (or if I use Fish Emulsion, as with my big outdoor Chainfern). Josh...See MoreVarious Clarifications on Gritty Mix and 5-1-1
Comments (7)1) Al uses the gritty mix for containers he needs help lifting, and Al is hale. ;o) There really is no upper size limit, even for small plants if you're using a properly made gritty mix because it holds no (or very little) perched water. You need to be a little more cautious about the 5:1:1 mix - especially because there is a wide range in what you end up with as far as porosity/drainage, depending on what goes into it. 2) Over the long term, the gritty mix will outperform the 5:1:1 mix, but they're so close over the short hauls that I put anything 1-seasonal in the 5:1:1 mix. It's easier to make in large volumes and it's much less expensive. 3) It depends on what you use. I screen the Turface because of a size issue. The bark and granite I use are pre-screened, so I screen them over insect screen just to eliminate the dust. That's important to me because I grow many plants in pots an inch deep or less. I need to minimize every form of stress on those plants I can, and can't afford to have a thin layer of sludge at the bottom of these containers. It wouldn't make much difference in the deeper containers most of you would have your long term planting in. 4) "Crushed" is my own term. No 'crushing' is required as it comes in small, pre-screened pieces. I suppose granite chips would be more accurate, but I've noticed that habits are first cobwebs - then cables .... and so I'm prolly tied to 'crushed' unless I make myself think hard about it. ;o) 5) Schultz Aquatic Soil = Turface MVP. Calcined diatomaceous earth is a little different than Turface. It holds more water (on a size for size basis), has a better CEC, but also has a higher pH. Like unproven sources of calcined clay, calcined DE should be checked for stability by freezing in water over night. If it remains stable, it's ok to use. FWIW - I have a lot of maples (heavy on the Jap maples but also plenty of tridents & others) in the gritty mix, and have been enjoying very healthy trees for a long while. Your turn. ;o) Al...See Morequestion regarding 5:1:1 soil mix.
Comments (2)It may be that you've over-potted, which is choosing a container that is much larger than the last one - hard to say from your description. The 'mushrooms' you are seeing are just the fruiting bodies of fungi that ware already in the bark. Don't be concerned, it just means conditions are right for the shrooms to fruit - no big deal. If you're concerned about water retention, insert a wick into the drain hole & let it dangle below the pot after you water until the pot stops draining. Locating the drain hole near the edge (but still on the bottom) and tipping the pot at a 45* angle so the drain hole & wick are as low as possible makes a big difference in how much water your soil will hold. You could also just partially bury the container in a bed or garden. It only needs to be a couple of inches deep for the earth to 'pull' all the excess water from the soil. It's better to repot/pot up when the plant is actively growing or just about to enter an active growth phase, so roots colonize the new soil mass quickly. You don't need to change to a different soil now, just be aware of how much water your soil DOES hold, and water when your plant needs it. I.e. when the soil feels dry at the drain hole; and use the tips you think are appropriate for you. Al Here is a link that might be useful: More about dealing with water-retentive soils...See MoreCRF for 5-1-1 alternative to osmocote
Comments (4)Dynamite in the right ratio is a good product because it supplies nutrients beyond the simple N, P, and K that many CRF products contain. Many of the Osmocote products sold at big box stores and even nursery/greenhouse ops lack anything beyond N, P, & K, so read the labels. Al...See Morevidnand
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agoNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
8 years agovidnand
8 years agovidnand
8 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)