If your aisles are wide enough to permit, you can pull out all the cabinets on that wall to make deeper counters, which is a win-win situation--more counter space and the fridge is more integrated.

As Texas_Gem suggests, post your layout, and we can help you decide.

Need the layout. Have you looked at cabinet depth refrigerators?

We did a combo. We pulled our cabinets out a little and also built out the walls around it. Doing this will create a flush wall.

This is their 30 cuft model. Maybe go to the next size smaller. That should drop the carcass size from 31" to about 29". Also, you can remove the drywall, create a cavity and recess the fridge a bit more.

See if you can recess it into the wall. Even if you get another fridge, it's going to stick out unless you get a counter depth one. Your drawing doesn't indicate a counter depth fridge does it? (It seems to stick out quite a bit.) Make sure the height of your new fridge is going to be okay with the cabinetry as well. CD ones are usually taller.

To me, it looks like the space with accommodate cabinet depth. Our CD sticks out a bit farther than the adjacent counter, and a regular depth would stick out way too far.

We couldn't recess it back any farther, and it looks like you can't either.

If you do get a CD, think about a French door and not side by side.

Even if you get another fridge, it's going to stick out unless you get a counter depth one.

Counter depth fridges, unless they're built in or integrated ones, also stick out, just less so than regular depth fridges.

Just a thought but could you not ask your cabinet makers to adjust (forward) to align with the fridge's depth? Would that look odd?

By comparing measurements on the plan, it looks as if you have ap 47"
aisle, counter-to-counter, between the range wall and the island. Maybe
34" between island, and fridge door handles, which appear to be elbow height. That's pretty tight, but just
workable with a side-by-side or French door fridge, IMO, as long as
someone isn't trying to get past while you have the fridge doors open. You can bring the cabinets out to 30", but that does not leave room for the corner susan, unless you give up the cabinet to the right of the sink. And the fridge still sticks out 8.75".

Can you move the island a few inches, and/or recess the fridge (as long as it's not on an exterior wall) as fori and weedmeister suggested? Can you get shallower handles? Can the stub wall be cut back to 30"?

Here's an option where I've cut back the stub wall and moved the fridge against it, thinking that might keep it from looking as if it sticks out all by itself. Also moved the base cabs out to 30", and uppers out to 15". I moved the island down and toward the sink a few inches, and you still appear to have 48" on that side. I rearranged the prep sink in the island, so that it's not back-to-back with the range. If that's not an exterior wall, you still could gain a couple of inches more by recessing the fridge. Any chance this would work?

actually now that I think of it, my fridge protrudes as well without a problem. It actually looks okay..

Also, you have to consider how far the handles extend out. My CD handles extend about 7" beyond the edge of my counter.

Can the lights be moved? Are they installed or are they still in the Design stage like the rest of the kitchen?

You could still pull the bases out a few inches to have more counter space, and move the fridge to the end. My island overlaps my fridge by a foot or so, but it's nice to have that 'step back' space when standing in front of the fridge.

Are you having seating at the island? Unless I'm misinterpreting the measurements, it looks as if the overhang is only 12", which isn't much leg space. I'm sorry to give you something else to stress about, but it's better to decide the overhang before the cabinets are templated.

Editing to add link: NKBA seating guidelines--scroll down to #9