Thanks for the input so far. Answers to some of your questions: -We have done our best to water. I'm out of town during the week, and DH sometimes is, but when he's home he waters daily. But we had a month plus of >100 temps and the watering only partially offset that. We have had a few rains in the past 2 weeks, and temps are back in the 80s-90s, so things have greened back up a bit and the worst seems to be over. -Those 2 trees are actually quite a ways from the house. There's a circle drive in between them and the front beds/lawn. -The dianthus have been pretty good about coming back each year, though not all of them, so I've replanted to fill in. -Good point about "well cared-for" trumping "filled up and lush." But we've still got sporadic stuff (like 2 surviving petunias) that isn't helping with the overall feel. Last night I went to check out what's available plant-wise since we're getting late in the season and pickings are slimmer. My thoughts: -Transplant dianthus from the back yard to fill in the front beds and make them more of a mass planting like the green stuff Yardvark drew. -Mass mums in the more central area that Yardvark made yellow. -Potentially one or two crape myrtles in the left bed, where the azalea is now and/or in the empty space to the left of the rock. I love crape myrtles. -A tree--or possibly another crape myrtle in the front of the expanded left bed. -There's lots of lantana available. Don't know if there's a good spot for that, or if I should bother this late in the season. Here's a rough draft plan. Feedback welcome. My other concern is what to do to keep the beds looking nice through the winter, since I've mostly got perennials that will die off. Our house is in the top 10% price-wise, and things are moving slow around here, so it wouldn't be a surprise if we're here through then. I'm thinking of getting a couple dwarf alberta spruces to put in urns by the front door. What else can I do to keep the beds from looking completely morose? I personally like the whole "spring back to life from nothing" look, but I am trying to sell a house here. :-)

Am I correct in making the assumption that you are referring to an HOA's common areas? I'm not going to bother trotting out a resume, but will try to help by giving you a few points to consider. The cost of the plants is a minor portion of the expense of a landscape renovation. The budget bulk is going to go to labor, materials to convert the irrigation system, the landscape maintenance the installers will be in charge of during the plant replacement period, etc. If you plan to install in-house from a designer's plan, are the persons responsible for that task sufficiently knowledgeable in all of the necessary skill areas? Who is currently contracted for your landscape maintenance? If they are a full service company, they might be the best source for installation and irrigation conversion. But check thoroughly--a verbal "Oh, yeah. We can do that." is not sufficient. Also learn if the maintenance company will be able to properly care for the drought resistant plants. What is the current style of landscape and maintenance? Drought resistant landscapes are better maintained using selective pruning techniques rather than the common practice of taking hedgers and shaping everything into balls and squares, for example. Actually all non-formal landscapes are best selectively pruned, IMO, but that is a different thread. ;) It really is impossible to judge the suitability of plants without knowing, at minimum, where you are located. Even then, an on-site evaluation is really necessary to put together a working design. There may be portions of the landscape that would be suitable for xeriscaping, without compromising the overall lush look. What is behind your association's interest in the renovation? Is it time for a plant renovation and you decided to check into converting lawn areas to reduce water requirements? Water bill sticker shock? The why is important, especially because of your budget concerns. If a full renovation is beyond your financial scope, there may be other ways to evaluate and reduce expenses (drip and micro-spray irrigation, different horticultural practices, etc.). Or the renovation can be done in phases. My husband would be my source for suitable companies that would be interested and available should you want to progress to a project consultation or bids. It does not sound as if you are at that point yet. An idea of the scope and budget would be necessary starting details.

I think this is improving, but one feature I would try to move away from is the creation of lines of "hedges," one in front of the other, as if you are creating a hierarchy of edgings. The same plants placed in blocks (instead of lines) will look better. Where you question "Too large a space for just filler?" ... I say absolutely not. Whether it has been stated, or not, I can't help but think that creating a pleasing view to passersby is one of the objectives of making changes. Creating some unification and making the "design" easier to read/grasp will make it seem "stronger" and more effective. For myself, I prefer the lawn without the stepping stones. But if you had to have them, I'm including a suggestion for one possible way of arranging the path. Naturally, I would not implement it without mocking it up in marking paint first. It can be the greatest help for visualizing an element and determining if one really likes it, or not ... before going to great expense and effort. As long as one grasps the basic, most important ideas, there is not too much cause for a gardener to fret over the details of planting design. It could all come together rather quickly and offer itself up for serious reevaluation. If it's determined then that there are obvious changes that need to happen, it's not difficult to move smaller plants around and improve the scheme. BTW, I applaud your efforts at ACTUALLY WORKING ON A PLAN! It's what most people seeking advice here should be doing. It tremendously clarifies communication. I also note that there is a radical improvement between your first design and the most recent. For sure, this would be a great project to come back later with a photo of the "finished product." Not sure if discussed or not, but I would consider planting the mulched area around the main tree with a single variety, very low groundcover. Green and leafy is just better than brown and crunchy.

As long as you trim the shrubs so they're not scratching the car paint and/or limiting walking/parking area, they're a good idea. If you want a finished driveway right away, decide on the size and shape you want and contact a pro. Or spend a lot of time watching You Tube vids until you have a good idea what you're doing. There are things you can do do minimize your cost ... digging out the place to pour the concrete yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cttBwkR-FK0 If you dig yourself and end up creating a raised curb on the fence side with cap blocks outlining the driveway and soil you remove from the yard, put a barrier against the bottom of the fence and any sod you add beside the fence to guard against fence rust and erosion of the sod through the fence. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Suncast-Dig-In-40-Ft-Resin-Edging-Black-Plastic-Landscape-Edging-Roll/1000573709?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--lwn--google--lia--236--landscapefabricandlawnedging--1000573709-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sH1z7bH8AIVAY3ICh25lg2aEAQYASABEgKjovD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds If you decide to add gravel where you dug out the sod rather than pouring concrete), driving on the gravel will pack it down over time and you can make a point of driving over all of it and packing all of it down (not just one row of tracks), then add more gravel as you pack it down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cttBwkR-FK0