I suppose the debate surrounds "relative effectiveness during dormant periods", and what is/isn't dormant. I don't know that I would have any recommendations for glyphosate treatments on dormant deciduous plants during winter months - haven't tried that. christie is looking to eliminate Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), which is an evergreen vine at her location, as it is here in the Ohio River valley. The rate at which it is translocated through the plant will be different, depending on the biological activity of that plant. The warmer the weather is (and the warmer the soil is), the more activity and thus the rate of translocation. The treatments performed in Louisville's parks vary, depending on what part of the plant is being treated. The recommendations pertain to using 44% glyphosate concentrate as the source of active ingredient. Foliar application calls for 2% concentrate and 98% water, with surfactant. Application to cut stems calls for 25% concentrate and 75% water. Temps above 40F (meaning overnight, not just daytime) is the benchmark for winter work. I believe the previous comments are not passing judgment on effectiveness by the rapidity at which death is observed.

hey guys, been AWOL for a few days but some interesting responses. I didn't think pokeweek died back that much in winter? I have known property owners to plant it and have seen it green and without berries in the winter. In fact I was at a property yesterday where I noticed it growing in a flowerbed. If it is a pokeweed of a weedy variety, should I kill it? It is a desirable plant for a lot of folks around here. So I have been thinking a lot about what my strategy is going to be and I think I am going to clear some places for trees to go in in the next few weeks. I was walking through the woods near my neighborhood this weekend and I walked into a large grove of white pine and I noticed that for whatever reason, these vines don't grow under them, but do grow in the surrounding areas which are made up mostly of ash, oak, and those white mullberry looking things. I think for this reason I am going to start with some white pines and plan to add to them as I am able to get control of more and more areas. Once I get a handle on how much maintenance this will take and I hopefully get some areas cleared I will add some maples and oaks and other deciduous trees. Also I've been trying to identify some good undergrowth and my shrub ID book is delayed from Amazon (shouldn't have chosen the free shipping option because I have been waiting for weeks). Anyone got any ideas on some quick growing shrubs. The links below are to the State DNR nursery and order forms. They have some low priced native plants for sale. http://www.dnr.state.md.us/forests/nursery/ http://www.dnr.state.md.us/forests/treemendous/ordertrees.asp Anyway, as always, thanks for the input.

If you have the time and energy, you can cut the vines, as close to the ground as comfortable to you, paint the stumps with liquid weed killer, and the tops will come down, eventually, or might be pulled down. I drilled holes in the stump of a trumpet vine and filled the holes with weed killer, so that should work with honeysuckle. Shame to do such to a native species, but Japanese Honeysuckle is a tremendous pest in my gardens.

Like most invasive species, it's all a matter of location, location, location!! Japanese honeysuckle is not an invasive species in the PNW (which shares a climate like much of the UK) and is commonly sold and grown, particularly L.j. 'Halliana' and L. j. 'Purpurea', which has a purple tint to the foliage and bicolored flowers. They have a wonderful fragrance when in bloom, especially in the evening, and attract hummingbirds. They also seem to attract aphids more than most other types of vining honeysuckle, which is not a plus :-) Considering the assortment of wonderful vining honeysuckles available that are NOT considered invasive, I see no reason to keep one in any area where this species IS considered invasive.