Sounds like you hit the important points :-) Maybe just a bit of transplant shock, which it should outgrow rapidly. As long as you are sure drainage is good in this area - not good to have tree sitting around in heavily saturated soils. Couple of things to consider for next tree planting.........site the tree in the planting hole with wrappings intact then remove them once tree is situated as you wish. This avoids any potential collapsing of the rootball moving it into the planting hole. You always want to remove any string, wire or twine but removing the burlap completely is not essential. Of course you want to remove it from around the trunk and the top of the rootball, but you want to proceed carefully removing from the sides of the rootball as fine feeder roots may be present and penetrating the burlap that can be harmful to the establishment of the tree to just rip away. That is usually not the case so early in the season but fairly common with B&B trees that have been sitting around for awhile. And burlap left under the rootball is no big deal. And it is always important to thoroughly moisten the rootball before planting. Typically, B&B stock is grown in pretty heavy clay and if this is allowed to dry out much before planting, it is virtually impossible to rehydrate properly once in the ground and covered with soil, despite how often you water. Newly planted trees will often fail from lack of water because of this - essentially a soil interface - issue.

I have moved across the continent twice in the last 20 years. The first time, I struck cuttings a year before the move and transported 50+ bare root plants by air to Ontario from British Columbia with good success. This past October, I sold the house in Ontario in October, I used a combination of the cutting method and bare rooting mature plants this time. For the mature roses, I waited until two days before the move and then dug up 20 plants that are rare or irreplaceable. I followed the method set out below and drove them 3600 kms across the country to British Columbia in our car in early November. The method I used is virtually the same method that commercial growers use to ship bare root roses to customers. The roses were out of the ground for a period of almost three weeks and I lost two. I would suggest that you wait until the late fall when the plants are not growing actively or flowering. Not certain when that might be in Louisiana, but the closer to dormant the better if you want to bare root them. Cut each plant back to about 18 to 24 inches to facilitate handling. Dig out as much of the root ball as you can, carefully remove it from the hole and then remove as much soil as you can. Wash the roots with a strong spray of water until they are clean or nearly so. Label them if you have many. If they are going to be bare root for a while, pack them with moist, not soggy, paper or sphagnum in large plastic bags. Move them to your new location. Before replanting, soak the roots for a period of twenty four hours or more and then replant them. Since you are moving to a new location before moving your roses, I would strongly suggest that you have the new beds prepared and holes dug and ready for when your roses arrive. Here are some images of some of my transcontinental roses taken this morning. Potted and waiting for me to finish building their new raised beds. All growing well and anxious to be planted and begin doing what they do best. A ten year plus plant of Cressida in a five gallon plastic pot. Note the long thick woody base. What is showing is the area above the graft that was buried 6 plus inches below grade in zone 4b Ontario. This was the largest mature plant with a huge root ball and she survived and is doing just fine. Another 10 plus year old mature plant of The Squire. This fellow is liable to flower before he is finally relocated if I don't get a move on with the new beds. As stated by others above, roses are tough and foregiving plants. Follow the instructions above and you should have no problem at all relocating your roses, though it is a heck of a lot of work. Cheers, rick

To be precise, pre-emergent herbicides only have an impact on weed seeds (or any kind of seeds) - they prevent either full germination or root development. But they have NO detrimental impact on existing plants or weeds ("pre-emergent" means before the weeds emerge or germinate). That is the job of the post emergents and they can be either foliar or directed to the roots in their mode of operation. Different herbicides work differently. You spread enough 2,4-D on the lawn, all sorts of plants - like your tree - will start showing adverse effects The issues with using weed and feed products is that they are a very inefficient method of controlling lawn weeds (you are broadcasting herbicides across a large area rather than directing specifically at the weeds); they migrate easily into groundwater and are one of the largest contributors to water pollution and they have an adverse effect with small children and pets. If you need to control weeds, a dedicated weed control product spot sprayed directly on the weed is a much better approach. Just avoid granular (and especially the combo granular) products, as these are the ones that leach into groundwater and are taken up by pet paws and bare feet.

I agree that this is winter damage and that you should probably tentatively start pruning back beyond the parts with dying leaves. You may see further down the cane some split canes or other damage, or the dark interiors of the canes like Dingo says. It's frustrating to have what looks like healthy green cane just give up the ghost a few weeks after robust growth, but it's just delayed effects of winter kill for the most part in my yard. I never consider winter pruning to be actually done till about mid-June, which is when I do my final "death march" to see what has actually survived, what pretended to survive but didn't (i.e. put out growth it couldn't sustain), and what was, is, and ever will be dead. in the first picture, I'd definitely prune off most of those canes - cut below anything that is dark red, brown, or even starting to turn a sickly yellowish green, since in my experience those canes are on their way out and you don't want it to take the whole cane out if you can salvage a stub. I definitely wouldn't try moving it out of the pot for the time being since it's already pretty stressed and that might tip it over the edge. My philosophy of spring pruning is that a healthy stub is better in the long run for a rose than a marginal "might be OK" cane that I'm likely going to have to prune out later in the season. This can look different in different yards or for different roses, but I expect most canes to die on most HTs, floribundas and minis. Any surviving cane is a welcome surprise after pruning. If the graft is intact (or roots survived, for own root plants) the rose can come back surprisingly well. Cynthia